12.5 hp briggs making me crazy

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  #1  
Old 07-24-09, 02:57 PM
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12.5 hp briggs making me crazy

Heres the deal.
I got a Quality farm n country rider given to me.
It has a 12.5 HP briggs on it.
When I got it home, it did run but ran like crap.
I messed with it and found that there was gas in the oil.
I went to local repair guy and talked to him about it and he said the carb needed rebuilt, needle was stuck.
Soo, paid for that to be done, and now I have NO spark.
Had my dad over and he looked at it and thought the wire running to the coil was the hot feed, he jumped it over and PUFF, the coil smoked.
So, went back to my local shop and bought a new coil.
I still have NO spark.

Tonight, after reading some posts on here, I bypassed ALL the safety switch, cut the wires and hooked them together.
I still have to jump the solenoid to get it to turn over, the key doesn't work.

I have a 4 tab solenoid, and my local shop guy said to take one of the smaller tabs and ground it, and make the other one hot and it will run. Well, it didn't.

I have tried everything I can think of.

I have no plans on mowing with it, I just wanted it for the kids to ride around on and use at flea markets etc. Thats why I bypassed safety switches.

ANY HELP WOULD BE NICE. I now have more money in this thing then it's probably worth and can't afford to just junk it.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-24-09, 04:35 PM
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The wire going to the coil is a grounding kill wire. From the coil/module it goes to the safety switches and ignition switch and a few other things, depending on the mower. If your father fed a hot wire into the coil by way of that wire, that would not be a good thing to do again.

To start, disconnect that kill wire from the module. By doing that you have a self contained ignition system with only the ignition module (coil) and the flywheel magnets in it. Those two components will get you a spark at the plug, assuming all parts are serviceable.

The small caveats on this are: some engines use an igniter in addition to the coil. If yours has that little beast it would need to be thrown in with the coil and flywheel. The other is if your mower is older than 1986, it could have points/condenser (if so, then no igniter). If that is the case post back with that information.

The solenoid is only for the electric start. That doesn't power the ignition. But it could be in a safety switch circuit = isolate those by disconnecting the module kill wire.

So, with the new coil, you should have spark at a grounded, known good plug = bright blue spark.

Then all you have to work out is cleaning the carburetor (try Seafoam (from auto parts store) first. If still a non runner, you'll have to dismantle the carb and clean it (soak and blow dry).
 

Last edited by marbobj; 07-24-09 at 04:57 PM.
  #3  
Old 07-24-09, 11:09 PM
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Make sure the coil isn't on upside down. As for not cranking over at all, who knows now with the cut wires and stuff. You need power on one small leg of the solenoid, and ground on the other when turning key to start to make the solenoid kick on.
 
  #4  
Old 07-25-09, 11:57 AM
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I got it running.
Being a newbie to the small engine scene, I can fix anything on a car however, I figured out that the whole flywheel needs to be clean and rust free, not just the magnet part.
I have been driving it around all day, just making sure it's good to go.

I am going to attempt to hook the safety stuff back up.

Next ?? is, I still have to jump the solenoid to get it to start, and to shut it off, I put a toggle switch on the coil ground/kill wire. I also have no headlights, there were there before however.
Could I have a bad key switch??
 
  #5  
Old 07-25-09, 09:26 PM
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Could be, or could be a lot of things. The rust on the flywheel doesn't matter... I think you have an electrical problem/mess.
 
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