Briggs and Stratton Mod 42E707 problem

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  #1  
Old 09-26-09, 10:14 AM
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Briggs and Stratton Mod 42E707 problem

Hey, I have a Twin 2 showing same symptons, runs great for a while then shuts off when it gets warmed up good. Last time it shut off, it issued a pretty good backfire through muffler too. My 1999 Twin 2 starts fine cold, runs strong, but quits running halfway through a cutting job. The engine seems to get pretty hot, hotter than before I believe. I've cleaned carb, (didn't change any parts, gaskets though as I was sent the wrong carb kit) but everything looked good inside. I did rebuild the fuel pump though with new parts. Blew out fuel line. Even tried rerouting fuel line around engine instead of through shroud suspecting a vapor lock condition to no avail. Compression test shows 105 in cyl 1 and 120 in cyl 2. Always been a great engine, regular oil changes and air filter cleanings. Both plugs were replaced at beginning of this season and were not wet when I pulled them, just tan on porcelin with no electrode wear on either.Thanks in advance for any help!

Mod 42E707 Type 2631E1 Code 9903155A



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  #2  
Old 09-26-09, 10:44 AM
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Gastorms1,
I moved your post to a thread of its on to prevent confusion.

Check for spark immediately when engine quits. Defective coils will quit working when hot and when cooled down will resume working normal.

You only need to check for spark on one high tension lead, plug wire. You have one coil with two high tension leads.

Parts list:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...=MS1102_LO.pdf
 
  #3  
Old 09-26-09, 10:02 PM
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I agree, especially with this particular engine. They are very prone to coil failures that behave exactly as you've described.
 
  #4  
Old 09-27-09, 12:50 AM
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I'll pick up a spark tester at somewhere like Advance Bros. to have ready next time I cut yard and follow up here on outcome. Is there a spark tester you guys particularly like? How much does that coil part cost and where's the best place online to get one? Its also been suggested that I "decarbonize" the heads to lower operating temps? This engine is 10 yrs old. Thanks for the help.
 
  #5  
Old 09-27-09, 06:03 AM
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I like the in-line type of tester that uses a bulb and flashes when ignition fires. The light is easy to see and the testers are inexpensive.

The coil or armature-magneto is part number 394891 and available online as OEM or aftermarket. I install aftermarket coils, which is cheaper, if the customer wants it. I have seen the coils selling from about $17.00 to $40.00 on-line.

I copied this from another site:
“remove the blower housing, generally four bolts with 3/8" heads. Then the coil is visible and it requires a 1/4" socket to remove bolts. Disconnect wire from coil. Turn the flywheel magnets away from coil. Put the new one on being careful to notice that it says "This Side Out" on one side (goes up) and "Cyl Side" on the other (goes down.) Get a business card and position it between the coil and flywheel. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are centered on the other side of the card and flywheel. The magnet will pull the armature toward the flywheel. Carefully snug down bolts on coil. Connect wire to coil. Reassemble parts removed”

The engine does not appear to be producing spark. Should the Magnetron Ignition Armature be replaced?
 
  #6  
Old 10-13-09, 09:34 PM
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Hi, I got a new BS OEM coil, mounted it up per instructions in the thread. Engine started immediately, runs good but if I shut it off then try to restart it while at operating temp, it will not fire. Pulled plug and checked with my tester and no spark. At least now, as long as I keep it running, I can finish a mowing job. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
  #7  
Old 10-14-09, 01:35 AM
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Sounds like a bad coil to me.
 
  #8  
Old 11-04-09, 09:03 PM
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I got coil no. 3, an aftermarket part I found through Amazon for only $22 plus shipping. Mounted it up, fixed my starter problem and the unit runs and starts great. Thanks Airman, Cheese!
 
  #9  
Old 11-05-09, 12:46 AM
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Glad you got it! Thanks for the update.
 
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