Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Troy-Bilt LTX_1842


Bill the Fool's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6

11-23-09, 07:29 AM   #1  
Troy-Bilt LTX_1842

I'm finally back to this problem with my mower. I have a Troy-Bilt with BS motor 18hp Intek #31D7770233E1 030904ZA94628. Walbro carb 16:46 1743LI97203. The mower will start & run about 15 minute, then blow LOTS of white smoke and loose power. The carb was "cleaned & overhauled" this summer for the same problem.(The overhaul was done by a BS repair center.) I got the mower after that was done & there is only 49.8 hours on the meter. I have taken the spark plug out & the cyl. was full of gas. I drained the oil & removed the filter--there was gas in the crankcase too. Is the problem a sticky needle in the float? I believe this was replaced when the overhaul was done. Would I be better off to replace the carb with a new one? Also had to replace the valve cover gasket as it leaked oil. I noticed I can move the rocker arms, & there appears to be a gap of .012. Is this right or should it be less? Thanks for any ideas, I'm trying to get this done befor the snow falls here.

 
Sponsored Links
indypower1's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 634
NH

11-23-09, 12:31 PM   #2  
Yes, your problem is the carb is flooding. It is usually caused by the float being set incorrectly or dirt in the gas that has gotten between the needle & seat. Does this have a gas shut off? If so, I would shut off the gas after every use. If it does not have 1, you can install 1 very easy & inexpensivly. First empty the gas tank. Then cut the gas line. Then install the gas shut-off and use hose clamps. The gas shut-off costs less than $5.

 
Bill the Fool's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6

11-23-09, 01:50 PM   #3  
I just got back from ordering some replacement parts: new float, needle & seat. They should be here by Friday 11-27-09 & I should get back to this by Monday. Thanks for the idea of the shutoff. It doesn't have one so I'll get one later this week.

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,567
GA

11-23-09, 04:40 PM   #4  
I'd say the valve clearances need adjusting as well. I set both valves at .005".


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Bill the Fool's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6

12-15-09, 07:31 AM   #5  
Thanks for the help!

I rebuilt the carb, looked as if the float & needle & seat were never replaced when she had the carb rebuilt last summer. Now the engine runs like a dream... my son was pushing snow with it last week. Thanks for all the help!!

Now I just need to solve the 'gremlins' that are in my Suburban electrical system.... Oh well, I like a challenge.

Bill the (happy) fool

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,567
GA

12-15-09, 10:28 AM   #6  
The valves still need adjusting...it's part of the necessary service schedule and it can ruin the soft cam shaft if they are too loose (the cam lobes "beat" on the lifters every time around because of the loose slack). It also causes hard starting, burned up starters and solenoids from overamping while trying to overcome the compression stroke when the valves get to a certain point.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Search this Thread