Should I Rebuild Blower

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  #1  
Old 12-15-09, 12:37 PM
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Should I Rebuild Blower

I have a Poulan Pro blower that no longer runs. It had been getting quite troublesome to start due to lack of compression and in the end would only start if I squirted oil into the exhaust port to increase compression. Upon disassembly, I find the piston and cylinder scored.

My plan is to rebuild the engine. Seems to me a new cylinder head and piston will do the trick. Is there any special break in procedure for the reassembled engine? Any special lubricants to use?
 
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Old 12-15-09, 04:50 PM
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IMHO, trash it as the new parts will cost almost as much as a new blower and you will still have an old blower. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 12-15-09, 06:58 PM
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I wouldn't spend my money on fixing one either. You'll also need a ring, gaskets, possibly crankshaft seals, the bearings may be bad since the metal from the cylinder was going somewhere, and then you'll likely have other problems pop up that these are known for (loose cylinder bolts, broken carb mount, etc...). They aren't even good disposable blowers. Just my opinion as a repair shop owner/operator.
 
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Old 12-16-09, 02:18 AM
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If you are planning to purchase another blower be SURE you don't buy one that looks like the one you have! This blower is sold under several names and only the color and name changes! They are all very poorly manufactured!!!
 
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Old 12-16-09, 10:11 AM
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Well, I've had my question answered rather unanimously. Thanks for advice.
 
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Old 12-24-09, 11:00 AM
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Well, the die had already been cast when you guys advised me not to rebuild it. Parts had already been ordered and the restocking fee is 30%.

I put in a new cylinder head and piston with ring. The head came with new bolts coated with Loctite or some other thread locker. The gasket that seals the end of the crankcase was slightly damaged so I sealed it up with RTV sealant. I coated the inside of the cylinder head and ring with engine assembly lube - same stuff I used for the new rod bearings on my track car engine several years ago.

With a little carburetor tweaking (those little buggers are complicated), the vacuum is running as it always did. How long it'll run well is anyone's guess.

In doing this exercise I have always wondered why this particular 2 cycle engine failed and the others didn't. It's the only one that gets run at full throttle nearly all the time. I've also been reading about using outboard motor oil (TCW3) in small air cooled engines. That is the oil that I have been using on all the 2 cycle engines. It might not stand up to the engine speed and heat inside the small air cooled engines that run at high speed. I'll switch this engine to something else.
 
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Old 01-18-10, 09:53 AM
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Thoiught I'd bump up this thread to indicate the blower/vacuum has now had 6 tanks of fuel through it. It runs and starts very well. We shall see how long it lasts this time. I am not running it wide open anymore and have richened the mixture somewhat. It always hesitated when I opened the throttle idling speed. Now with the richer mixture it accelerates nicely. It had always exhibited the hesitation problem. Probably was too lean from the outset.
 
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Old 01-18-10, 12:54 PM
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The being too lean would have been part of the reason for the cylinder and piston getting scored originally. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #9  
Old 01-20-10, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by LawrenceC View Post
. I've also been reading about using outboard motor oil (TCW3) in small air cooled engines. That is the oil that I have been using on all the 2 cycle engines. It might not stand up to the engine speed and heat inside the small air cooled engines that run at high speed. I'll switch this engine to something else.
Do not use boat motor 2cycle oil. It is not ashless and will eventually clog up the spark arrestor screen.
Use a good synthetic 2cyle oil at 40:1 mix.
thanks,
 
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