15 year old Homelite EH2500 generator

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Old 01-27-10, 09:57 AM
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15 year old Homelite EH2500 generator

I inherited this old generator and other than being gunked up it looks to be in excellent original condition right down to the orange-painted fuel line & plug with orange overspray. I want to get this working & take it up to my cabin for the next time a tree falls on my wire
I took apart the carb & cleaned out the crust from the bowl & cleared all the orifices & jets I could locate. I can now start it but it runs extremely fast. Putting out about 160VAC! The throttle linkages are clean & appear to be correctly assembled so I'm assuming I have a vacuum leak from the old hard gaskets still in the carb. I've ordered a rebuild kit & a manual off eBay.

Does this sound like the most likely cause of my problem? Anything else I should look for? The engine is a horizontal shaft B&S 5HP with internal governor. The governor seems to respond fine but I'm not real familiar with this type, or with fixed-speed throttle setups.
 
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Old 01-27-10, 03:49 PM
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When you rebuild the carb you HAVE to soak it in a carb cleaning solution for an hour or so. You have varnish in the carb's tiny pinholes inside the carb. The only way to remove it is soaking, rinsing with water, then blowing out ALL hole with compressed air.
 
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Old 01-27-10, 05:40 PM
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OK...if I HAVE to...
Is there anything I should remove before soaking?
 
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Old 01-29-10, 05:06 AM
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Well the carb dip didn't do any better job than spray cleaner & a tag wire but it was worth a try. I'm still inclined to think air leak--While I'm waiting for my rebuild kit to arrive is there anything else I should look at for a 5HP Briggs & Scrapiron that's running way too fast?
 
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Old 02-02-10, 12:43 PM
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I put a rebuild kit into the carb, new fuel line, added a filter & a new plug. Once started, adjusted & warmed up it runs smooth and maintains speed fairly well. I have a service manual on the way so I can make sure the throttle linkages & springs are all in the right positions. My problem at this point is that it's very hard to start. If I dribble a little gas into the venturi it'll fire & run for a second & quit. It'll do this several times before finally chugging to a constant run. It's wearing me out pulling the rope!

Fuel flows freely into the bowl & the manual choke works correctly so why isn't it getting pulled into the venturi?

(This is a 130000 series 5HP electronic ign. engine)
 
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Old 02-04-10, 09:52 AM
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Is there a 1-question limit per topic?
 
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Old 02-05-10, 12:54 AM
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There's no limit.

I'd say you still have a fuel related problem. If this has the tank-mounted carb, then I'd think you have a hole rusted in the fuel bowl and the fuel is draining out of it. Putting fuel into the carb to get it running a few times gets the fuel pump pumping fuel into the bowl and eventually gets it full enough to run, assuming the pump is pumping fuel faster than it is draining from the bowl.
 
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Old 02-05-10, 06:48 AM
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Thanks for your reply. No this isn't a tank mounted 'pulse jet' type carb. It's a gravity-fed carb hanging from a cast elbow right on the head--similar to every snowblower I've ever owned.

I'm still waiting for the manual I ordered. The eBay seller must have sent it by arthritic tortoise. All I have to go on so far is the B&S engine parts list here:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...=MS9639_LO.pdf

The carb has been disassembled & sprayed out twice, dipped once, all jets & orifices chased out with a tag wire & more carb spray and all traces of old paper gasket are gone. It's spotless. Everything in the carb overhaul kit is now in there (needles, springs, nozzle, gaskets, float valve & seat) except for one item I couldn't find a home for. There's a ring-shaped cork gasket with a tiny orifice on the ring that looks identical to the center of the big gasket in the kit. Now that I look *again* at the .pdf file I notice #157 venturi gasket under #128 venturi. Mine looked like a thin o-ring over a solid venturi 'pipe' so I didn't mess with it. It may be 2 pcs. I can't imagine it being the problem since I haven't disturbed it but it's really the only part of the carb I haven't taken apart.

I don't know what else to look at for a hard-starting problem on an engine with no primer. Maybe it's normal to have to pull 10-12 times to get it running??
 
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Old 02-05-10, 07:01 AM
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Did you remove the nozzle assembly before separating the carb?
 
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Old 02-05-10, 03:30 PM
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No--the upper plate lifted off & on diagonally on the nozzle. IF I held it upside down so the float didn't interfere.
I'm afraid to ask why?
 
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Old 02-05-10, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by guy48065 View Post
No--the upper plate lifted off & on diagonally on the nozzle. IF I held it upside down so the float didn't interfere.
I'm afraid to ask why?
Well because it shouldn't have come apart easily if at all without removing the nozzle first.
I would venture an issue, if not THE issue lies within...

Without pulling up the IPL again I think there is an Oring and maybe a packing that should have been supplied with the kit. Finish the rebuild/overhaul and see if it helps.
 
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Old 02-05-10, 07:09 PM
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You say choke is working so you have confirmed the choke is closing inside, not just that the lever moves? and after it's running does closing the choke then cause it to flood out?
 
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Old 02-06-10, 07:27 AM
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yes on both counts. All works fine once running--just dang hard to get there
 
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Old 02-06-10, 11:28 AM
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Check the throttle shafts for slop/play where air can suck in past them. Also make sure the carb mounting gasket is intact and in good shape. Make sure the float is set at the right level and the carb air fuel adjustments are set properly. If it still is hard to start and you are certain the carb is clean, check the valve clearances. As the engine wears, the valve clearances become smaller until eventually there is no clearance and the engine vacuum is affected to the point of hard starting.
 
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