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Frozen Piston - 5 HP Tecumseh Snow Blower


jaygreg's Avatar
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02-07-10, 07:46 PM   #1  
Frozen Piston - 5 HP Tecumseh Snow Blower

I let this engine run out of oil and it stopped working the moment I put it in gear. A friend told me I may get lucky by pouring about 2 ounces of oil into the top of the cylinder through the plug opening, fill the unit with oil like I should have done long ago, find a way to turn the crank. That may be an issue 'cause all I can grip is a pulley with two screw holes drilled into the flat belt side (the circumference side).

Would apprecaite any comments on the expected success of this approach or whatever other suggestions there might be short of rebuilding the engine.

 
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02-07-10, 08:23 PM   #2  
Put a wrench on the crankshaft end that has the belt pullies on it. Be careful as you dont want to overtighten the bolt & strip it.

 
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02-07-10, 08:54 PM   #3  
If you ran it out of oil,, just admit defeat & pull the engine apart & fix it... If the rod is stuck to the crank, you may be able to clean the crank with Muratic acid & replace the rod.. Not really a big deal,, I repair 4 or 5 each year like this... Roger

 
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02-08-10, 06:18 AM   #4  
I appreciate the comments. If I use a wrench, it'll have to be a pipe wrench on a pulley cause there's no nut.

I guess my friend is under the impression the piston is frozen in the cylinder. Hopkinsr2 suggests it's frozen where the rod connects to the crank shaft. If that's the case... does it make sense to pour muric acid into the oil area, let it soak, drain it, flush with ... oil, fill with oil, then try turning the crank with a wrench? Time is the issue. I really don't want to tear it down unless I absolutely have to.

But just in case... can I see a copy of the repair manual on this site or be referred to another please.

 
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02-08-10, 07:08 AM   #5  
OK, I agree with hopkins best to fix it now. If you understand why it "froze" you will see why we believe this. When the engine over heats the aluminum connecting rod begins to melt and it seizes to the crankshaft journal. This is called aluminum transfer. You may free it but the aluminum will still be on the crank and most likely as it heats and cools it will seize again and probably break the rod putting a hole in the side of the block eliminating your option to clean crank and replace rod ($30). You will then need a new engine. ($500).

With that said, remove your recoil starter ( 4 bolts ) and you will have access to the flywheel nut (3/4"). Get a half inch drive ratchet, give it a turn and see what happens.

 
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02-08-10, 08:29 AM   #6  
Jaygreg,,, DO NOT put the acid in the engine or you won't have an engine left.. You need to remove the crank to verify if it does have the Aluminum transfer... Roger

 
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