Murray Snow Blower Jack Shaft replacement.

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  #1  
Old 02-11-10, 01:33 PM
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Murray Snow Blower Jack Shaft replacement.

The small sproket (1 of the 2 on this part) is worn down and Im trying to remove the Jack Shaft assy. I removed the axle and was able to remove 3 of the 4 bolts on the JS assy. The 4th is to far back. It looks like I might have to take alot more things off to be able to get to the 4th screw. Do I really have to tear the whole thing (drive componet assy) apart??? Murray (Brute) 8HP 27" model G2784050 part is ref# 275 in diagram and part # 583010.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-11-10, 02:11 PM
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Yes you really have to tear the whole thing (drive component assy) apart.

AJ
 
  #3  
Old 02-11-10, 02:21 PM
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Thanks. Do you recommend a certain order to follow? Im a little confused on what order to take.
 
  #4  
Old 01-12-11, 08:03 AM
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Hi JBT1914,

Did you ever get that jack shaft replaced? I'm faced with an identical problem and have not found much info online. It seems crazy to me how difficult it is to work on these things, user friendly design it is not. If you were able to repair your snow blower, I'd greatly appreciate any useful tidbits of info. I'm in the same boat you were in last year.

Thanks,
Chris
 
  #5  
Old 01-24-11, 04:51 PM
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Steve

THE ROD TO MOVE FRICTION WHEEL / REMOVE COTTER PIN ON RIGHT SIDE / PUSH WHEEL UP & HOLD WITH WEDGE / PRY ON ROD TO REMOVE FROM HOLE (LEFT SIDE) & MOVE UP /MAY HAVE TO MOVE COTTER PIN OUT OF THE WAY / TAKES A WHILE BUT USE WRENCH ON BOLT & MOVE BEARING TO UNTHREAD / GOOD LUCK STARTING THAT BOLT!!! / ALSO CHECK GEAR ON FRICTION WHEEL SHAFT /
 
  #6  
Old 11-29-13, 09:04 AM
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Cool Jack assem, inside bearing bolt access.Murry/Mastercraft (Sears) MD C950-52730-7

Announcement this week: Sears Canada parts services will change/discontinue in the near future.
Mine is 15 yrs old now. Another 15 maybe to go
Thanks to Steve below for this.
So to get to this inside bearing rear bolt for replacing the 7 tooth gear that drives the axle gear I pried the Zerk wheel fork pivot shaft out and halfway back across the shaft hole. Removed the cotter pin on the other end of the just in case. Also removed the drive cable link arm. This allowed me to get a wrench on the bolt behind the zerk wheel to loosen/tighten it. The shaft end easily slips back in place. A pivot ratchet box end or 1/4'' drive got the rest done. You can turn the head with a flat screw driver when turning easily.
If you are buying tools, get the 1/4" drive pivot head for this job. Socket is 1/2"
You may not have to remove anything except the hex shaft with friction wheel to get the 36/7 tooth gear out/in.
You may want to replace the friction wheel too at this point while it's out.
Also removed the axle sheer bolt and moved the drive gear back and forth for the bearing bolts wrench and R&R Jack assembly.
 
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