Snow Thrower sat 2 years - won't start

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-27-10, 09:25 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 182
Snow Thrower sat 2 years - won't start

My neighbor has a 24" Sears snow thrower at least 6 years old that has been sitting for at least 2 years. I am not sure what brand engine it has. We drained the stale smelly gasoline from the the tank and from the carb bowl, cleaned the spark plug but it won't start.

It doesn't appear to be getting any spark at the plug as I removed the wire from the plug and and could actually hold my finger between the wire and plug and not get any shock, only a very slight tingle after running the electric starter for a while.

I'll get back over there to try and get the engine specs but I told him he might be better off taking the machine to a local small equipment specialist for a good going over. As always, I appreciate any suggestions.

Lucky for us my snow thrower is in good shape and got us through these recent storms.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-27-10, 04:54 PM
indypower1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire
Posts: 634
Please post the model number of the snowblower. Can be found on the back panle between the tires )looks like 123.456789. You most likely have a Tecumseh engine. Sitting for 2 years the carb is all gummed up inside. Needs to be taken off, taken apart, soaked in a carb cleaning solution and and a kit installed. And claen or buy a new float as that 1 is gummed up with varnish and will weigh it down and cause flooding.
You said you have a "tingle" of spark. Try this. Remove the spark plug, pour about an ounce of gas down the plug hole, install the plug and try it to see if it farts for a couple of seconds. If it does, you have spark and carb problems.
 
  #3  
Old 02-28-10, 11:04 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: ontario,canada
Posts: 325
carb cleaner sprayed in the air intake will also test if spark ok and just no fuel, if it runs a second or two. needs a few pulls after spray to test.
 
  #4  
Old 03-17-10, 10:22 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 182
Thanks for the great info as usual. I finally got a chance to work on it this warm March 17. I removed the carb, disassembled it and found it caked and coated. I cleaned it with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. I check that the float stayed afloat when set in a small can of gas. I reassembled and the machine fired right up. I ran it for a good while to get it hot, I drained the engine oil which looked like a mix of oil, gas and crud. I got it hot again and drained the oil a second time to give it a decent flush. I warmed the engine up again and the oil is looking clear.

I do have one question. The engine is not keeping a steady RPM. There is a slight surge in RPMs and then back down. This is constant and after engine is fully warmed up and the choke plate is fully open. I am testing the engine with the carb and safety key cover off and I see the lever on the side of the engine that has the spring attached and it is moving back and forth as engine RPMs fluctuate up & down. Any suggestions?
Also - there is no air filter on this machine. Should there be one?

Also I have all the pertinent info:

5.0 HP Craftsman 24" with electric start
Model #536.886440 Serial #920307427

Engine tag info:
Engine Model #143.005001 Engine family XTPXS.1951 BF

D.O.M. 9144M

The carb and muffler have Tucumseh embossed on them so I'm asssuming that's the engine make. Also says that the engine conforms to California emissions specs for 1995 - 1999. I'm thinking that D.O.M. is a code for date of engine manufacture. Thanks again for any info.
 

Last edited by grandspan; 03-17-10 at 10:24 PM. Reason: error in typing
  #5  
Old 03-18-10, 07:26 AM
indypower1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire
Posts: 634
Yes, your engine is a Tecumseh. No, Tecumseh powered snowblowers do not use an air filter. Just the "heater box" cover.
The surging shows that the carb is still a little dirty. With it sitting for 2 years and all the varnish you found on it, the carb really needs tp be soaked in a carb cleaning solution to get at all the tiny pniholes inside the carb that can not be gotten to with spray carb cleaner.
First, remove the main jet (the bolt that holds the float bowl on). Using a magnafying glass, make sure all holes are clean. The big hole is easy to see. The other 2 are usually missed as they are tiny pinholes. 1 of these pinholes is located in the threads. Use a small piece of wire to clear them,spary carb cleaner, the compressed air.
You may also want to try running with the gas cap loose as the vent in the cap could be clogged.
 
  #6  
Old 03-18-10, 12:59 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 182
When it was disassembled I did clean the 2 holes in the threads on the main jet. Do you mean that there are 2 additional holes in I missed?
 
  #7  
Old 03-18-10, 06:50 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: ontario,canada
Posts: 325
surging might also mean you need to do a static governor adjustment. I think there might be a thread on this forum on that or it might be on one of the other forums I use. I had to do one after I cleaned up a 5hp tecumseh
 
  #8  
Old 03-19-10, 08:59 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
I agree about the governor......

If you removed the carb, there's a good chance you disturbed the governor adjustment. Before I knew better, I did the same thing. When I started the engine it would rev up and down just like you said.

I did the static governor procedure, which is not difficult, and it solved the problem.
 
  #9  
Old 03-21-10, 05:23 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 182
Thumbs up

Thanks to everybody for all the advice. Indypower1 hit the nail on the head saying even though I had disassembled and cleaned the carb - that there was still a clog.

I checked out 2 web sites on static governor adjustment and both said that if the engine hunts or surges that the cause was most likely a carb blockage (see link below) and not the gov. So I decided to dissassemble and clean the carb one more time before disturbing the static gov. adjustment.
This time I dunked it in lacquer thinner for about five minutes and blew it out with compressed air again. Make sure you keep the thinners away from rubber and plastic because it eats up most of them.

I reassembled and fired it up and the engine ran smooth right away. I did not have to adjust the gov. Thanks again.
Check this web page on static gov adjustment:

Understanding and Adjusting your Governor on a small engine
 

Last edited by grandspan; 03-21-10 at 05:34 PM. Reason: missed info
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:08 AM.