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JD 265 wont start


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03-11-10, 08:27 AM   #1  
JD 265 wont start

I have a john deer 265 lawn mower that wont start or get fuel to the carb. . I have checked the spark and it is good. If i pour a cap full of fresh gas down the carb it backfires but wont run. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is bad or if it just is not getting a vacumm or not. please help

 
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03-11-10, 08:31 AM   #2  
forgot to add that it is a kawaski fv540c engine. also the fuel filter is new. and there is no fuel in the carb. bowl

 
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03-11-10, 10:59 AM   #3  
First loosen the cap on the tank. Then disconnect the fuel line at the carb and direct the flow into a container. Then spin the engine over and see if you have fuel flow there. If so you have a good fuel pump, if not, disconnect the line at the pump on the tank side to make sure you have a flow from the tank. If it's good there, the pump or pump drive is bad.

If the flow from the tank is nill you'll need to work back up the line to the tank to find the restriction.

Sometimes the problem is the venting in the cap and a new cap is needed. That's the reason for loosening the cap.

Should you find the pump is pumping and your carb bowl is still dry, the problem is at the float valve or at the shutoff solenoid if so equipped.

 
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03-11-10, 02:38 PM   #4  
Before doing anything, take out your plug, take it to an auto parts store, and ask for the autolite or champion equivalent of the plug. These engines are very finicky about plugs, especially when they have NGK plugs, which yours probably does. Don't let it fool you, even though it shows a nice blue spark, replace it anyway. I have been fooled more than once by this, and had it happen just the other day. Yep, it was another darn NGK plug. The denso plugs do it too.


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03-11-10, 03:23 PM   #5  
I have tried a new plug (champion) that did not work. I have also made sure that there are no restristions in the fuel lines. I was talking to a few people today and a couple thoughts were a stuck valve or maybe even timing. The last time it ran it did backfire on shut down. any thought on those being the problem.

 
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03-11-10, 03:45 PM   #6  
If the float bowl in the carb is empty that pretty well says fuel supply. You'll have to take care of that in the process of getting it to run.

That isn't saying you don't have another problem too, but no fuel will keep it from running, obviously. Backfiring on shutdown is a typical fuel related symptom.

 
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03-12-10, 03:20 AM   #7  
i agree with you there but i guess what i was woundering is if one of those other problems did exist, would that cause the fuel pump not to get the vaccum need to pull the fuel from the tank and fuel lines. I did take the fuel pump appart and there did not appear to be any rips or holes in the diapharm.

 
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03-12-10, 07:10 AM   #8  
I see what you're asking now.

On a mechanically driven pump, like one that drives off the cam shaft with an arm - similar to the old automotive fuel pumps/carburetors, the answer would be a definitive no. In terms of the two conditions you're describing the two problems/symptoms would be separate from the pump.

On a pulse driven pump, things get a little closer, but still there's some separation. You'll have a pulse in the crankcase as long as there is a piston going up and down. That has to be qualified, however. The piston/rings/crank seals must be in decent shape.

Once you have the pulse, you should have a working pump if the pump is good. You have a diaphragm which has to be flexible and a valve assembly. If any part of that fails you would have a pump problem.

What I would do is disconnect the fuel line from the pump on the carb side and feed the line through a container and see if it'll start. All you'd really have to do is fill the carb bowl manually to test the engine and the float mechanism in the carburetor. Make sure you have the tank line to the pump taken off as well.


Last edited by marbobj; 03-12-10 at 07:27 AM.
 
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03-12-10, 07:21 AM   #9  
I tried searching your rngine and found a mistake. You have a FC540V. I would clean the carb & install a new needle & seat in the carb, then adjust the valves.

 
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03-12-10, 01:39 PM   #10  
last fall before i stored it for the winter my father in law and I cleaned that carb. so I would not think that it needs cleaning again but I have my him coming over this wekend and will add it to the to do list on getting this thing running. I'm hoping that the fuel pump is not gone cause I called today and it cost around $60 and has to be ordered in. I'm really hoping to get this runnign this weekend since i have alot of yard work to do from the winter season.

 
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03-12-10, 04:10 PM   #11  
mhamby2;

If you will send me a PM(personal message) with your email address I will send you the Workshop Manual for your engine. Must be this evening as I will be out of town for a week starting in the morning. Have a good one. Geo

 
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03-14-10, 01:52 AM   #12  
I missed the second post where you said the float bowl was empty. I agree that the fuel pump may be suspect. One thing to check is for is fuel line cracks. That mower is old enough that the fuel lines are likely cracked, especially at the cut ends. If they are, the pump can suck in just enough air to keep it from pumping gas. I've had this happen more than once. If the internals of the pump look good and the diaphragms aren't stiff or torn, then it should work.


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03-14-10, 10:17 AM   #13  
Anyone have any tricks for removing the fly wheel. I have tried a gear puller and it wont budge. Right now we just have it stitting soaking with wd40 with pressure on it. We have figured that there is vacuum at the fuel pump but it is very weak. We are tring to figure out if it is out of time or if the key is broken. If we pour gas down the Carb. it backfires very loud but will not start.

 
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03-14-10, 11:58 AM   #14  
Just tighten the screw on the puller with about 75 lbs (or about) of torque, pull out on the flywheel as far as you can and hit the end of the screw with a metal hammer. Normally that will shock it loose. There's nothing magic about the 75 lbs, just get a lot of pressure on it.

The reason you pull out on the flywheel is to keep the crank from being seated on the direction you're driving it.

If it's coming off that hard though, I doubt if you've sheared a flywheel key.

 
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03-14-10, 05:37 PM   #15  
as you thought the key was fine. I guess the next thing we are going to check is the valves. unless somone has a better idea.

 
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03-14-10, 06:58 PM   #16  
Is the carb filling with gas? Will the engine start with gas dribbled into the carb opening? Is the plug BRAND new? If the answers are yes, no, and yes, then I suggest replacing the igniter.


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03-15-10, 03:48 AM   #17  
cheese,

I have not worked on the fuel pump yet. however it is not pumping fuel to the carb. We have poured fuel into the carb and the spark plug is new. I bought a champion like you suggested. When we try and start it only backfires though the carb. The next thing we were going to check was the igniter and check the valve adjustments.

 
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04-01-10, 02:17 PM   #18  
how do you go about checking the valves on this engine. I have a new fuel pump and ingitor on the way. I was able to get the engine to fire for about 10 secs or so by pouring the gas down the carb. It only would do this once. I called JD and they sair to adjust the valves to 0.006. I have never done this before so please help

 
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04-01-10, 04:03 PM   #19  
You need a better diagnosis of the problem than that. That's far too much guesswork and not enough inspection and analysis.

 
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04-01-10, 04:10 PM   #20  
what would you suggest me to check. We have checked the carb, spark plug, compression, flywheel key, there is good spark but engine will not start only backfire. with the exception of that one time. I just dont know what else to try. I have talked to several people and a few mechanics and they are all stumped. I would rather not take it to a dealer since I really can not afford to pay for the work.

 
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04-01-10, 04:44 PM   #21  
Valves a little out of adjustment won't cause your problem, but to adjust them, set the engine to TDC, then using the proper feeler gauge between the rocker arm and valve, set the adjuster nut until the feeler gauge lightly drags through the gap. Kawasaki engines don't usually require valve adjustment very often.


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04-01-10, 04:59 PM   #22  
so i should just wait till those replacement parts come in and see if that fixes the problem. or is there anything else that i can try while i wait?

 
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04-01-10, 07:07 PM   #23  
mhamby2;
Back in town, send me your email address and i will send you the workshop manual for your engine, it will make your process much easier. Have a good one. Geo

 
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04-01-10, 08:40 PM   #24  
There's really no point in doing anything until you have fuel delivered to the carburetor. That may very well fix everything.

If you'd like to eliminate or verify the fuel system as the problem, just hook up a small container of fuel to the carburetor, disconnect the feed from the tank to the fuel pump (to prevent a fire hazard), and see if the engine runs.

 
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04-02-10, 03:57 AM   #25  
my eamil address is [email protected]

 
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04-02-10, 09:47 AM   #26  
Posted By: mhamby2 my eamil address is [email protected]
It is on it's way. Have a good one. Geo

 
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04-12-10, 05:12 PM   #27  
ok I have replaced the fuel pump, ignitor, and coil still will not run. the spark plug is new and there is good blue spark. what else do i try. grass is getting long help please

 
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04-13-10, 12:02 AM   #28  
If the pump is still not pumping fuel to the carb, you have to fix that before anything else. The rest is wasted money. Did you check the lines like I suggested?


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04-13-10, 03:29 AM   #29  
sorry I forgot to mention that I am getting fuel to the carb now that the pump is replaced. The fuel line are in good shape.

 
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04-13-10, 09:45 PM   #30  
It should be going for you, then. What are you getting out of it?

Will it start, then die or not start at all, or runs, but runs poorly.

 
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04-14-10, 03:19 AM   #31  
it will not start at all. when you try and start it sounds like its sucks air or somthing. I did get it to start for about 3 secs. a couple of weeks ago but that was before i replace the fuel pump.

 
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04-14-10, 09:47 PM   #32  
Yo may have a flooded engine. That's often the case on a no start engine that has spark and fuel.

Take out the plug, shut off the gas entirely or drain the tank, open the throttle fully open, and spin the engine over a dozen times.

Then put a teaspoon of gas down the plug hole, stick the plug back in it, and see if it will fire.

 
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04-20-10, 04:31 PM   #33  
good news i have it running. took off the carb, and cleaned it agian. dumped the gas our of th tank and replaced with new gas again. It started right up. we noticd that the fuel filter was full of water. I had just put that gas in too. I guess it was some bad gas. everything it runnign great now. thanks everyone for your help.

 
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04-21-10, 05:47 PM   #34  
Glad you got it, thanks for the update!


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