95 Craftsman only starts with starter fluid

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  #1  
Old 04-12-10, 05:54 AM
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95 Craftsman only starts with starter fluid

Mower started right up after I removed the airfilter and sprayed starter fluid in the air intake but wont start on its own. Any thoughts on why? Do I need to clean the carb - not sure I'm up for this. I've never done it before...

Ohh, sorry I have a model: 917.256520

parts list and diagram here: http://www.outdoordistributors.com/p...PARTS-LIST.pdf
 
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  #2  
Old 04-12-10, 09:36 AM
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Yep. Clean the carb. Well, check the rest of the fuel system to be sure something isn't preventing fuel getting to the carb ---then clean the carb.

If you aren't familiar with doing that you can Google up some articles on that subject, then view several U-Tube videos on the subject and you'll probably have the idea.


That's what I did recently, anyway. I've had great success with my new skill and went on to clean my weed wacker carburetor with great results!
 

Last edited by SeattlePioneer; 04-12-10 at 10:53 AM.
  #3  
Old 04-13-10, 12:11 AM
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Hold on a sec, it may be a carb problem but there are things to check first.

Once you get it started, does it continue to run on it's own?

Is gas getting from the tank to the carb? I didn't look, but if this model has a fuel pump, is it pumping?

Does this carb have a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl? If so, it could be stuck in the off position and be the reason for the lack of fuel. It could also be that the this solenoid isn't getting power to it. This can be verified while pulling the bowl off to see if the inside needs cleaning.
 
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Old 04-13-10, 07:06 AM
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You have a B&S 28N707 Type 0173-1. This is an OHV engine. It does have a fuel pump and a soleniod in the bottom of the carb. As cheese said check these first. After that, when was the last time the valves were adjusted? This is a 2001 engine and the valves have to be adjusted every couple of years.
 
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Old 04-13-10, 09:48 AM
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Cheese and indy were spot on, after doing some research on how to clean a carb I went out last night and sure enough, my carb didnít look like the ones I saw/read how to clean.

I wasnít sure how to take that solenoid off without braking it (it doesnít appear to screw on and there is no bolt/screw holing it on) so I decided to just spray a little carb cleaner in and see if I get lucky. Sure enough it starts! Here are the answer to Cheese's questions and a few of my own:

1) Once started it does run on its own - and better now that I sprayed some cleaner it
2) I bought it used last summer and have never adjusted the valves. Hoping its either a) not this or b) this is as easy as the carb cleaning looked to be - I'm fairly handy but havenít done any of these things before
3) How do I get that solenoid off and check it? it appears to spin freely (i.e. no threads) and I donít see a bolt/screw holding it on?
4) While the engine does start, I need to crank it a few times once at mid throtle and then put the throttle all the way up and turn it over again - its starts on the 2nd turn. Thoughts on why? at the top of the throttle lever is a sign I believe stands for choke - is there an automatic choke that could be causing the issue?

Indy - how did you find its a 2001 engine. From what I found based on the Sears/Craftsman model # it was a 1995. I thought the engine looked clean for a 15 year old mower but now you have me wondering if I'm wrong and the whole thing is only 9 years old?
 
  #6  
Old 04-13-10, 10:31 AM
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Sorry, forgot to mention while it runs really good, thats at mid to low throttle - if I push the throttle up, it starts to die...
 
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Old 04-13-10, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by emies View Post
Cheese and indy were spot on, after doing some research on how to clean a carb I went out last night and sure enough, my carb didnít look like the ones I saw/read how to clean.

I wasnít sure how to take that solenoid off without braking it (it doesnít appear to screw on and there is no bolt/screw holing it on) so I decided to just spray a little carb cleaner in and see if I get lucky. Sure enough it starts! Here are the answer to Cheese's questions and a few of my own:

1) Once started it does run on its own - and better now that I sprayed some cleaner it
2) I bought it used last summer and have never adjusted the valves. Hoping its either a) not this or b) this is as easy as the carb cleaning looked to be - I'm fairly handy but havenít done any of these things before
3) How do I get that solenoid off and check it? it appears to spin freely (i.e. no threads) and I donít see a bolt/screw holding it on?
4) While the engine does start, I need to crank it a few times once at mid throtle and then put the throttle all the way up and turn it over again - its starts on the 2nd turn. Thoughts on why? at the top of the throttle lever is a sign I believe stands for choke - is there an automatic choke that could be causing the issue?

Indy - how did you find its a 2001 engine. From what I found based on the Sears/Craftsman model # it was a 1995. I thought the engine looked clean for a 15 year old mower but now you have me wondering if I'm wrong and the whole thing is only 9 years old?
Sorry, I screwed up. I was using the "type" number when I need to use the "Code" number which I do not have. It is on your engine.
You should start the engine at full throttle. It starts easier at full throttle.
Most have a choke, but not automatic. The choke is with the throttle lever all the way full. Then you pull back the throttle 1 notch to take the choke off. If you move the throttle lever slow, you should be able to feel the notch.
Adjusting the valves is fairly easy. You do need feeler a gauge of the proper sizes. You do need to take off the valve cover and remove the spark plug. Then turn the engine to position called for in the specs then loosen or tighten the screw on the rocker arm.
 
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Old 04-13-10, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by indypower1 View Post
You should start the engine at full throttle. It starts easier at full throttle.
Most have a choke, but not automatic. The choke is with the throttle lever all the way full. Then you pull back the throttle 1 notch to take the choke off. If you move the throttle lever slow, you should be able to feel the notch.
Ahhh, Thanks Indy, that makes sense. And I felt the notch. But any idea why if I put the throttle all the way up, or in the choke position, it wonít start even if I do it twice or three times. But if I let it turn 2 or 3 times in the "notch" position and then put it into in the choke position it starts on the 1st or second turn?

Would the valve timing have something to do with that? If its the carb I'm gonna need to figure out how to get that solenoid off so any help there would be appreciate as well!
 
  #9  
Old 04-13-10, 05:03 PM
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OK, so I got the solenoid off and removed the bowel, cleaned both. There was an incredible amount of gunk in the bottom of the bowel - looked like orange marmalade!

Its not the end of the world but I still have to turn the engine over two or three times, turn the key back to off, move the throttle to choke position and turn the key again before it starts. It starts right up on the second turn of the key though - it’s a 15 year old lawn mower, maybe i should be happy with that?

I know I have power to the solenoid (11.62) but I can’t hear the solenoid tick or make any other noise when I turn the key. Any thoughts on the next thing to try?
 
  #10  
Old 04-13-10, 06:18 PM
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A fully charged battery should have at least 13 volts. You should be able to hear the solenoid. Or you can have someone turn the key on while you have you hand around the solenoid so you can feel it click. If it does not click, then you probably need to replace the soleniod. Put the battery on a charger overnight to get it fully charged.
 
  #11  
Old 04-14-10, 06:04 AM
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Itís on a slow charger now so when I get home it should be fully charged and I will give it a shot but I was just thinking...

If the solenoid was bad, it would get stuck in either the open or closed position right? If it got stuck in the open, since it is supposed to shut the fuel off, I would be getting allot of backfire when turning it off right? If it were stuck in the closed I wouldnít be able to start and run it right?

So since it starts, runs and it doesnít backfire can I rule out a bad solenoid?

I can live with having to turn the key twice start it but I'm just wondering if there is underlying issue that if I donít address will cause larger problems down the road.

Thanks for all your help!
 
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Old 04-14-10, 07:33 AM
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Make sure your choke is closing completely when you move the throttle to "choke/full"
Sounds to me like the choke butterfly is just not closing completely causing hard starting.
I would have to look at one or a breakdown to be sure (more like joggin my noggin) but I think you can adjust this by adjusting the throttle cable at the carb...
It does sound as though the choke butterfly is moving and the reason it wants to die when you move the throttle to full/choke. It just needs to close completely for cold starts, however.
 
  #13  
Old 04-15-10, 04:44 PM
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Looks like the choke is closing, at least the little ark return fully - if the valve is dirty and not closing fully is ye to be seen and I donít foresee myself tearing it all apart to find out to be honest.

With a full battery charge i finally heard the solenoid though. And today, with a charge, I put the throttle up to choke and it started right up. So I'm thinking the battery isnít keeping enough of a charge to activate the solenoid but Iím puzzled why when the solenoid isnít energized, I have to turn the engine over twice (once in normal position and once in choke) to get it started.
 
  #14  
Old 04-16-10, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by emies View Post
if the valve is dirty and not closing fully is ye to be seen and I donít foresee myself tearing it all apart to find out to be honest.
Ok good luck, sorry I got no pixie dust to email ya
 
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