craftsman tractor left rear axle sheared off, RIP?

So in hindsight, moving a couple of cords of wood with my craftsman model #917.270821 and my 4X6 trailer (1/3 to 1/2 cord at a time) was not a good idea. I was mowing afterwards and suddenly stopped and sagged to the left. I looked at the left rear and the axle had sheared clean off. This tractor has the hydrostatic drive #319-650. I purchased it new 11/98.

I think the replacement part is the differential bearing (part #532150829) if the schematic is rotated 90 deg. Perhaps its easier just to replace the entire transmission?

Is this the major failure that kills this tractor? I have done a couple of carb overhauls and a steering shaft/gear replacement (with your help) but this seems too hard for me to fix. My neighbor knows a guy who can give it a go if I buy the right part(s). Or I buy one of several of his used tractors or a brand new one.

Your expert opinions will determine my course of action.

edit: looks like the differential is a $280 part (cant seem to post the link)

may be time for a new tractor?

 

I have heard that many times used as a good excuse to buy a new tractor. Other then the axle breaking, how do it run?
Option #1. Fix what you have for your time and $280.
Option #2. Buy a new tractor for $2100 or more.
Option #3. Look on Ebay and Craigslist for a good used transaxle or a used shaft or a tractor with a blown engine.
You have a good 19hp engine. I guess it is up to you as to how much $$$ you want to spend.
My opinion is what you have is worth fixing. 19hp twin, hydro tranny.

 

Thanks for the reply indypower. I was hoping the shaft was easier to replace than it looks to be (opening up the transmission). I doubt its something I can handle and/or invest the time in.

My current options are:

1) have a guy do the repair ($280 + $100? labor - estimate from the neighbor)
2) buy an almost identical 10-12 year old? 19 hp hydro craftsman for $500
3) buy an 05 23hp craftsman for $900
4) buy a new 21 hp craftsman for $1800 including a bagger

I think I'll go check out #2

 

option 5: neighbor has a spare hydrostatic drive #319-650 laying around and wants $50 and my help to install which is great if it works. Seems easier than replacing the shaft. Anyone have any tips on doing this?

 

If you use your neighbor's hydro, it would be a good time to drain old fluid and put in new before you install it.

 

Looks like the exploded parts view for the hydrogear 319-0650 transmission lists 20W50 as the replacement fluid.

http://ipl.ordertree.com/ipl/147/319-0650_150071.pdf

I'll check with the neighbor if he knows how to change and how much (and I'll keep googling)

 

IIRC, there is a vent tube and fitting on back, pointing up, take off tube, and I think it's a plastic fitting that can be unscrewed, turn unit upside down and it will drain.
It takes 81 ozs.
I seen where guys use Mobil 1 10-40 in lieu of dino 20w-50.
Facilitates winter use.
hopefully a real expert will chime in here.
HTH

 

thanks Glen - I'll get some 20w-50 and give that a try

 

My advice would be to buy another tractor but, this time buy a garden tractor (GT) not a lawn or yard tractor.
If you continue to haul loads with this tractor, you will just shear another axle. Your lawn tractor was not designed for that type of work. You may have the horse power but, not the rear end or the tranny for it.

 

Neighbor installed the used transmission and I helped some. Seems to work ok except it doesnt free wheel when I pull the lever in the rear (to move it while it's not running). But for $50, Im happy with it. Lets see how long it lasts.

The bolts had dropped out of the side where the axle sheared off, so Im sure that had something to do with it, as well as, the tongue weight of the trailer filled with wood. Those bolts had locking nuts, so its odd they fell out. The other side of the axle was cracked as well. I guess checking if the bolts are there is a good inspection item since the repair can be so costly.

Copy Inspector 232 - I wont be hauling any more heavy loads.

Thanks for your help

 

Did you purge the air from the hydro after installation?

 

no, didnt exchange the fluid, just installed it.

 

epilogue: so the replacement hydrostatic drive #319-650 sprung a pretty good leak this week (2 years after replacement). I took indypower1 and Inspector 232's advice and bought a 2009 (162 hours) PYT9000 24HP 42" deck with roller, plug aerator and spreader attachments for $975. Don't really need the attachments but it seemed like a decent deal for a "professional" series craftsman