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Diagnose/Repair me 6HP Briggs


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05-04-10, 07:00 PM   #1  
Diagnose/Repair me 6HP Briggs

21" Yard machine push mower, Briggs 12v802-1776-e1 http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...S0875_E_LO.pdf

Customer states it ran last time it was used

Oil is more than double the "in range" above the full mark....

List the steps you would take to test and repair and
diagnose me....

good luck to all

p.s.
I sold this mower to the same customer 5 years ago for $50.00

 
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05-04-10, 07:37 PM   #2  
Unless it's your motherinlaw inform them it will cost more than the original purchase price.
OK, take appropriate action at each negative action.

Check obvious, hole in block, blade removed etc.
Check that it has gas in it.
Check that the oil is not contaminated with gas.
Check for spark
Check that the air filter is not saturated with oil.
Check if it will fire with starter fluid.
Check if enough compression.
Check bowl nut(main jet) is not clogged.
Have a good one. Geo

 
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05-04-10, 07:40 PM   #3  
Drain the oil and smell it. I suspect it to have gas in the oil.
Then I would drain the gas tank, check for water in the gas, then remove the carb, tear it down, clean it, install a new needle & seat, check the float in a bucket of water to make sure that it does float. I would also check the gas cap and make sure the vents are open.

 
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05-04-10, 08:06 PM   #4  
Great replies of course from the forum vets,

some answers and other info:

Customer is of no relation to me and while I have serviced other equipment of his, have not seen in a few years.

I quote a price of 50 dollars to service and repair, plus any parts and trip charge or shipping.

Crank case is definitely over full, if not FULL and smells of gas.


now lets go one step at a time here please, so we don't confuse the author AND we might avoid missing something along the way.

The ending is indeed a cliff hanger and one I don't think has been covered much if at all here, and a first for me.

 
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05-04-10, 10:36 PM   #5  
Well, as you know, this is generally caused by a carburetor leaking at the needle/seat. I have had some strange things happen though...maybe the guy poured gas in the oil tube? I once checked a mower that wouldn't run and it had green stuff in the gas tank and carb. I figured out it was antifreeze. I asked, and the guy said yes, I poured antifreeze in there. I asked why, he asked why not. He said he thought it was supposed to have antifreeze in it somewhere, so he poured it there (this was a push-mower, mind you). He was going senile,poor guy.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-04-10, 11:08 PM   #6  
Posted By: cheese Well, as you know, this is generally caused by a carburetor leaking at the needle/seat. I have had some strange things happen though...maybe the guy poured gas in the oil tube? I once checked a mower that wouldn't run and it had green stuff in the gas tank and carb. I figured out it was antifreeze. I asked, and the guy said yes, I poured antifreeze in there. I asked why, he asked why not. He said he thought it was supposed to have antifreeze in it somewhere, so he poured it there (this was a push-mower, mind you). He was going senile,poor guy.

thx for chiming n cheese and good to see ya.
Side note on this mower is it is mulch and side discharge only, and also has ball bearing wheels and is absolutely the lightest push mower I have ever laid a hand on. With a 6hp, it is indeed an excellent trim mower if you have property. I had intended to keep it for my own use, although, I was talked out of it by a needy customer

Ok so here is a bit more of the story, as cheese mentioned, I indeed did figure the needle and seat failed for what ever reason,although it occurred to me that the mower may have been tilted however it would have had to have been in a very obtuse position for a very long time(perhaps stored on it's side). After checking the oil and finding the level as it was, I did no more than drain the oil and refill, tear into the carb and clean and check all gaskets. Needle and seat looked to be fine, rubber seat, solid needle. After cleaning the carb I did do a static test on the carb, attach the fuel line, put fuel in the tank and leave the carb detached to watch for fuel leaking. 5-6 hours and not even a tear drop of fuel so....should be good to go. This is the point where I should make my quoted price, less carb gaskets or such. Put the carb back on everything but the airfilter and giver a go.....nothing but arm/rope wearing out

missed a step eh?

 
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05-06-10, 12:14 AM   #7  
Spark or no spark? Dry or wet plug? Will it run with fuel added to cylinder?


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05-06-10, 07:03 AM   #8  
Posted By: cheese Spark or no spark? Dry or wet plug? Will it run with fuel added to cylinder?
No spark One habit I have taught myself is to "Always" pull the dipstick before touching a pull rope or key. Just a bit reluctant to check for spark on an engine that is FULL of gassy smelling oil. In the future I suppose sucking the level down, pulling the plug and checking for spark should be in order
Coil was more than the guy wanted to put into it, so I took the mower for what time I had in it.
Replaced the coil and got it to start. Even mowed with it a bit but it was sputtering slightly and did not want to restart when I shut it off. Flooded it at least once, cleared that then it would start but not continue to run....so I tear the carb back down for a bath. Put it back on without the airfilter/primer housing, quick shot of gas and started right up and purrrrrrr'd like a kitten.
Put the airfilter back together, primed it up and started right up again but would only run for a few seconds, start a bit of sputter and die. Pulled the airfilter out and I could see fuel sitting in the housing. I checked the primer and while it was a bit stiff, it did squirt fuel into the throat, but then it continued to seap. Pulled the filter housing back off, dried the throat and wait for the gas again....it never came. The primer bulb has the hole in it and it was clear, I could blow compressed air through the primer passage as well as carb cleaner.... Changed out the primer bulb and same results.
So I pull the airfilter housing again and dig out my hair sized drills and start poking around in the passage..."pop" goes a piece of plastic and now the primer bulb feels really easy, almost too light. It looked to me as though it may have gotten hot and melted a bit of plastic. Back together again, it primes right up and fires and purrrrrrs. Let it sit and observe again, throat stays dry and it fires right back up and purrrrrs.
This is similar engine and same carb (with the plastic intake pipe that commonly breaks) but it has a different housing with the primer incorporated than the flat ones that usually have primer issues, as in not priming due to gasket or even warped housing. (I also have another mower that uses the flat type housing that I have been unable to get it to prime )

This carb does have a small check ball on top and I did look at it during cleaning...not positive but I think/thought this is the carb vent? It is now venting through the primer,(apparently) but I am not sure this is how it should be venting or if it is even worrying about especially since I intend on keeping it this time

If I knew for sure that the carb has a separate vent I suppose pulling it apart and removing welch plugs, bath and full kit would be in order or replace the carb.
If there is a separate vent, I imagine it is meant to restrict enough to allow pressure in the bowl for priming but still bleed off enough not to restrict the float from rising.

I honestly don't think it will cause any issues but it would be nice to know just to satisfy my own curiosity.


 
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05-07-10, 11:00 PM   #9  
I don't know of any check valve vent in those carbs. It should be able to vent through the primer.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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