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cord jerking from hand


sawdog15's Avatar
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05-20-10, 12:48 PM   #1  
cord jerking from hand

hello yall newby here, and learning alot from yalls help, thanks alot, my question is why is the pull cord on a small yard machine push mower, 20in. cut, jerking the cord out of my hand and very hard to pull the cord? im thinking sherd flywheel key or valves off. dang thing killing my hand, any ideals? thanks alot for all the help

 
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sawdog15's Avatar
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05-20-10, 01:13 PM   #2  
sorry bout the repost yall, i just found a earlyer post that it could be a sheerd flywheel key, sounds most likely to me.

 
indypower1's Avatar
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05-20-10, 04:16 PM   #3  
Yes the flywheel key is sheared causing the timing to be off, which is why the cord is being pulled from you hand. The engine is firing earlier than it should as you pull the cord.

 
TheBlackLab's Avatar
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05-20-10, 05:59 PM   #4  
Not so fast on the flywheel key...Is it an overhead valve engine? Honda's are notorious for the intake valve workin' itself tight... with no slop at all in the rocker workin' itself through the cycles every so many strokes you'll have the intake valve seal too early in the up stroke and your compression goes through the roof, and... the pull cord trys to tear your arm off (I would imagine the same could happen to the Briggs and Techumse knock off OHV's )

Although to be honest on a lawn mower (that hits tree stumps, corners of retaining wall block, edge block ect) shearing the key is a high probibility...just not the only one

Pull the Spark plug, crank it to dead top center and check how tight the rockers are... there should the tineiest bit of jiggle there...If not just take your basic 10mm and back off the adjusting nut about an 1/8 of a turn (you'll have to hold the lower nut with a 13mm wrench)

If it is the key you're gonna have to make a flywheel puller out of a 1/4" piece of flat stock...For a Honda you use the holes from the pull start pawls , and make sure the screws you use engauge the entire thread of the flywheel...and not too long to pop through the block when you tighten them , drill your flat stock so your 2 holes line up exactly with the holes for the pawls , lay the center of the flatstock over the end of the crankshaft , insert screws through your drilled holes (with added flat washers),get hand tight then alternate with a wrench about 1/4 turn each until good and tight (trying to bend the flatstock) then either (or both) heat the flywheel around the crank with a torch or rap the flat stock with a hammer directly over the crank.. The flywheel should just pop right off...Briggs and Tech are similar but should have pre drilled and tapped puller holes so you don't have to risk screwing up the threads for the pawls (Briggs has pawls riveted on anyway) hope this helps


Last edited by TheBlackLab; 05-20-10 at 06:21 PM.
 
sawdog15's Avatar
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05-22-10, 02:27 PM   #5  
well the update is believe it are not but when i first got the mower it pulled fine and cranked butt vibrated bad ,so after takeing the 20in blade off then tryed to crank it, thats when it started jerking the cord back, justed valves didn`t work, flywheel key was good, so after a few head scratchs i thought heck i`ll put the blade back on and try that cause without the blade it could have throwed it out of balace,so put blade on and dang thing cranked right up ,no more jerking the cord out of hand, ant that something? hope this helps someone with this trouble sometime.

 
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05-22-10, 10:32 PM   #6  
Yeah, the blade acts as a flyweight and needs to be in place for it to operate correctly.


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TheBlackLab's Avatar
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05-23-10, 11:43 AM   #7  
Ummm I have nothing to say

 
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