bolens st110 not starting


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Old 07-09-10, 04:58 PM
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bolens st110 not starting

Hi there
I have a bolens st110 that I got from my grandpa about 2 years
ago and had it running for about four times a 20 minutes at the most since I owned it. Today while leveling some dirt It just stalled on me after about twenty five minutes. I could get it running for up to a minute with the choke being moved up and down and now not even that. Any help would be appreciated

briggs and stratton model# 253707 0144-01 84120510

bolens st110 model# 3011g
serial# 0200881
 
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Old 07-10-10, 04:26 AM
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Was it running well before it quit? The first thing to check is your fuel delivery system. A common problem is a blocked vent in the fuel cap. Also check for obstructions in the fuel tank and be sure you have fresh gas and a clean fuel filter. If all these things check out ok it is probably time for a carb cleaning and/or rebuild.
 
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Old 07-10-10, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Backachers
Was it running well before it quit? The first thing to check is your fuel delivery system. A common problem is a blocked vent in the fuel cap. Also check for obstructions in the fuel tank and be sure you have fresh gas and a clean fuel filter. If all these things check out ok it is probably time for a carb cleaning and/or rebuild.

The mower was running for about twenty-five minutes before this happened. I tried running without the fuel cap on with no luck. The fuel was maybe 1 1/2 years old but I put 3/4 of fresh fuel in and the fuel filter was a little dirty with some grass. Not sure ware to buy a new filter for this old tractor. What is the best way to clean the carb? I only cleaned a carb on a pushmower, is fuel suppose to leak out the bowl or not on my carb?
 
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Old 07-10-10, 03:41 PM
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.If your fuel was 1 1/2 years old that is your problem. You will need to drain all of the fuel out of the tank and be sure the tank is clean. Gas should not run out of the carb which tells me it needs to be taken off the mower and cleaned. If you have cleaned a carb on a push mower this is the same process. Take the air filter and housing off the carb. I think this model has an automatic choke on it so that linkage is built in with the other linkage. If not remove the choke cable. remove the bolts holding the carb on the engine and rotate the carb to remove the linkage. Note how all the springs etc. are hooked up so you can get it back together right. After you get it off pull the jet adjusting screws out and the bowl off.Take the float and needle valve out. I'm sure once you get it apart and see all the varnish in it you will see what the problem was. The fuel leaking problem is caused by the float and needle valve not sealing so that is dirty for sure. Use a can of spray carb cleaner and spray all of the passages in the carb. and be sure all the passages are clear. Once you are sure everyting is clean put it back together. Put your jet adjusting screws in all the way and back them out 1 and 1/4 turn for the first start up. Then adjust them after the engine warms up. If fuel was leaking out of the carb be sure it hasn't also gotten into the oil. Probably a good idea to change the oil before restarting just in case. You can get a fuel filter for the tractor at any parts store. I buy see through filters for about $4.00. Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
 
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Old 07-10-10, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Backachers
.If your fuel was 1 1/2 years old that is your problem. You will need to drain all of the fuel out of the tank and be sure the tank is clean. Gas should not run out of the carb which tells me it needs to be taken off the mower and cleaned. If you have cleaned a carb on a push mower this is the same process. Take the air filter and housing off the carb. I think this model has an automatic choke on it so that linkage is built in with the other linkage. If not remove the choke cable. remove the bolts holding the carb on the engine and rotate the carb to remove the linkage. Note how all the springs etc. are hooked up so you can get it back together right. After you get it off pull the jet adjusting screws out and the bowl off.Take the float and needle valve out. I'm sure once you get it apart and see all the varnish in it you will see what the problem was. The fuel leaking problem is caused by the float and needle valve not sealing so that is dirty for sure. Use a can of spray carb cleaner and spray all of the passages in the carb. and be sure all the passages are clear. Once you are sure everyting is clean put it back together. Put your jet adjusting screws in all the way and back them out 1 and 1/4 turn for the first start up. Then adjust them after the engine warms up. If fuel was leaking out of the carb be sure it hasn't also gotten into the oil. Probably a good idea to change the oil before restarting just in case. You can get a fuel filter for the tractor at any parts store. I buy see through filters for about $4.00. Good luck. Let us know how you make out.

I must have said it wrong but the carb wasn't leaking gas from the bowl I was just wondering if it was going to when the bowl was off.
 
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Old 07-10-10, 06:47 PM
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Well I think that I found another problem, After running the mower for about 30 minutes it started acting up. The part where two pieces connect on the block is leaking.
Here is a picture of the leak----



right now the leak looks to be half an inch long. Not to sure If anymore is leaking until I really clean the motor up during the week but that's all I seen.

P1010469-2.jpg picture by bri687 - Photobucket
 
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Old 07-11-10, 01:34 PM
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I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at but it looks like the oil sump and the engine block. Is it oil that is leaking? If so it is probably the sump gasket which is leaking. If so the sump bolts may not be torqued properly. This requires pulling the engine to torque them. If it is leaking all the way around it will need to come out and you might as well put a new sump gasket in it. As long as the bolts aren't too loose you could try to just run it a while to see how bad it is really leaking and if it seals up. However running it with sump bolts could damage the seal and crank. If I was wrong on the picture( hope I am) I take it all back.
 
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Old 09-01-10, 09:35 PM
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bolens

How's it going everyone sorry it took me awhile to get back to you. I drained the fuel put sea foam in with fresh gas and cleaned the carb bowl and it started up an ran for five hours with no problems. The small spot between the oil sump and the block that was leaking has stopped on it's own. Is there a reason for that and is it going to happen again, whats to fix on that? also the steering wheel has about four inches of play how can i fix that?
 
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Old 09-07-10, 03:27 PM
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If the oil leak stopped it was probably due to the gasket being dry from not being run and warmed up. As long as the leak has stopped there is nothing to fix. Enjoy the tractor!!
 
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Old 09-08-10, 05:52 PM
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Thanks for the help on the oil problem. Do you have any idea on how to fix the play in the steering ?
 
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Old 09-12-10, 03:01 PM
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Jack it up and look at for the nut on the end of the shaft that comes from the steering wheel to the steering gear. This nut may be loose and if it is tighten it up and your steering problem will be gone. I have found this to be the fix on several tractors I have rebuilt. Let me know how you make out.
DWG at Backachers
 
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Old 10-21-10, 08:25 PM
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HI when looking up from the ground there is no nut to tighten. I can tell the steering rod is moving in the metal steering rod holder before it catches. Is there something I'm not seeing?
 
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Old 10-28-10, 06:38 PM
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Does anyone have any ideas how to tighten up the steering?
 
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Old 10-28-10, 09:19 PM
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If there is only 4 inches of free travel in the steering wheel, I wouldn't worry about it. That's not abnormal for a lawn tractor.
 
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Old 10-29-10, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cheese
If there is only 4 inches of free travel in the steering wheel, I wouldn't worry about it. That's not abnormal for a lawn tractor.
There is about 7 inches of free play and while on rough terrain the wheel can turn into a plow. Thankyou
 
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Old 10-30-10, 09:05 PM
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About all I can say is move he steering back and forth and see where the slack is. Somewhere a steering part is moving when you turn the wheel and not moving a related part until the slack is gone. Should be fairly easy to see. Probably a bushing at the steering sector or column.
 
 

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