B&S 17HP OHV Counterweight Repair

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  #1  
Old 08-24-10, 07:48 PM
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B&S 17HP OHV Counterweight Repair

My Toro 17-44 tractor has a B&S 17HP OHV Model 312777-0128-E1.

Came back from vacation to find the engine "siezed", would not turn by the starter. Using a socket wrench, I was able to rotate the flywheel (very stiff at first), then it freed up enough that the starter was able to turn it. It started up, but with a nasty rattle or knock inside the crankcase.

After tearing it down and opening the crankcase, I found that the upper counterweight had shed its bearing sleeve, which was mangled in 2 pieces inside the crankcase.

Pretty sure this is the cause of my problem. It explains the seized crank, and also the knocking with the looseness resulting from loosing the bearing ring in the counterbalancer.

Now I'm considering repair options. I'm torn down to the crankcase base, but I haven't started on removing the crankshaft yet. I also found the plastic oil slinger ring cracked at the bearing, but this apppears unrelated and the slinger appears to work even cracked in two.

A few questions:

1) Think my crankshaft scored from the counterweight ring coming loose? If so, that's probably a show stopper since the crank is expensive and not available for my engine.

2) What's the best way to pull the flywheel without a puller?

3) Any tips for pulling the crankshaft without disturbing the piston and rod? I'd like to leave them in place as everything looks fine (cylinder not scored at all, rings appear to be sealing, no reason to suspect problems with rod or wrist pin).

4) Is all this worth the trouble, or should I be looking for a replacement engine? Any sources of new or reman engines for a reasonable price you can suggest?

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-24-10, 11:28 PM
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Hello islander09,

1) There's a good chance the crankshaft is scored, but you won't know without looking. It has to come out to change the balancer anyway.

2) Unscrew the flywheel bolt, take the washer off, put the bolt back in until the head is 1/8" from contacting the flywheel, pry up under the flywheel in an area where it will not damage anything, put a piece of wood on the flywheel bolt and hit it sharply with a hammer. It should pop up and you can take it off after removing the bolt.

3) Take the flywheel off, turn the crank so that the rod is up in the cylinder, then take the rod cap bolts out and remove the rod cap. Rotate the crank until the rod journal is low enough to not interfere with the rod or the governor arm and slide the crank out.

4) If the crank is good, it might be worth fixing. You'll need a balancer, governor gear, and gasket at the least. Check ebay for engine parts, they can be had cheap at times.
 
  #3  
Old 08-25-10, 06:01 AM
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Thanks Cheese.

After seeing the mangled balancer bushing, I was about to throw in the towel, figuring their must be other damage. There are also quite a few metal shards on the sump, which doesn't look good either.

However, sounds relatively easy to get the flywheel off on these, so I'll go ahead and finish the tear down and inspect the crank.

Any good sources for engines? Tulsa Engine poped up on a search ($800+), and I assume there are others. A good cross-reference would help so I could see other engines that might fit.
 
  #4  
Old 08-26-10, 05:41 AM
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Doa

The crank is dorked up where the bad balancer bushing came loose. No gouges, but the surface has a peened look, and the ground surface is clearly damaged. So this repair just hit a dead end...

Can anyone suggest a source for a replacement engine?

Amazon has a 17 HP replacement engine for $480 that looks like it would fit. Is there any way to confirm this motor will fit into my mower, and that the wiring will connect?

Amazon.com: Briggs & Stratton 500cc 17.5 Gross HP Engine with 1-Inch x 3-5/32-Inch Length…

Thanks! Jeff
 
  #5  
Old 08-26-10, 10:23 PM
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That is a standard riding mower engine that should fit most all tractor style riding mowers out there, including yours if your crankshaft diameter is the same (I'm sure it is). I don't know if the electrical connectors will be exact, but they should be very easy to adapt if not. It should be a simple cut-and-dry swap.
 
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