Help with Craftsman 9 HP Snowblower

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  #1  
Old 09-09-10, 10:36 AM
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Help with Craftsman 9 HP Snowblower

Hi all,

I have a Craftsman 9 HP 2-stage snowblower (model # 247.888530) with two issues with which I was hoping someone could assist.

Issue 1
In April a tree fell on my shed and I in the commotion I just noticed recently that my snow blower was bent at the scoop. A new one costs $250, so I want to bend it back into place, what's the best method? Rubber mallot and wood block? Other?



Issue 2
I discovered a small gas leak from the carburetor that left a gas stain on the floor of my replacement shed . What is the proceedure for fixing the leak? Is it just the gasket or the entire assembly? Also, is this a part I have to pay sears for or can I get it cheaper elsewhere? It is a tuschman (sp?) engine.



Also, are there any other maintenance items I should address while I am working on it (belts, etc?). I change the oil and plug once a season but that's pretty much it.

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-09-10, 07:23 PM
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Issue 1

It is hard to see in the picture but is the whole housing twisted or is it just bent where the arrows are pointed? If it is the later I prefer to use large Channel locks to get thing back to there approximate shape. Better, but a whole lot more time consuming, would be to put it in a large vise and flattening the panel using the jaws of the vise. For a unit of this age I would not be putting a whole lot of time into this repair.

Issue 2:

Pull the numbers off the engine and go to a local small engine shop and purchase a renewal kit for that carb. That will address a host of issues and probably cheaper in the long run than guessing on an individual gasket, or needle and seat, or ???

Steve
 
  #3  
Old 09-10-10, 07:35 AM
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I've never touched a snowblower but the shroud looks like the same sheet metal used on rototillers, which should bend rather easily by hand. Maybe put a foot on it or even use and adjustable jaw wrench.

As for the leak, I would suspect the needle and seat as well. Check your oil and see if it is over full or smells of gas. If it is the case then a kit for the carb should do it and include gaskets for the bowl and bolt.
 
  #4  
Old 09-13-10, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgencamaro View Post
Issue 1

It is hard to see in the picture but is the whole housing twisted or is it just bent where the arrows are pointed? If it is the later I prefer to use large Channel locks to get thing back to there approximate shape. Better, but a whole lot more time consuming, would be to put it in a large vise and flattening the panel using the jaws of the vise. For a unit of this age I would not be putting a whole lot of time into this repair.

Issue 2:

Pull the numbers off the engine and go to a local small engine shop and purchase a renewal kit for that carb. That will address a host of issues and probably cheaper in the long run than guessing on an individual gasket, or needle and seat, or ???

Steve
Steve,

Thanks. It is just bent at the sides so your ideas will work fine. I would like to not flake the paint off and cause rust so perhaps clamping some wood blocks on there a hand vise will do the trick.

How much should I expect to pay for the renewal kit? Is it very difficult to install? Are there adjustments involved?
 
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Old 09-13-10, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BFHFixit View Post
I've never touched a snowblower but the shroud looks like the same sheet metal used on rototillers, which should bend rather easily by hand. Maybe put a foot on it or even use and adjustable jaw wrench.

As for the leak, I would suspect the needle and seat as well. Check your oil and see if it is over full or smells of gas. If it is the case then a kit for the carb should do it and include gaskets for the bowl and bolt.
Thanks for the input Fixit!
 
  #6  
Old 09-13-10, 09:42 PM
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The kit price will be based on your carb. Prices vary a bit but I would expect it to be around $20. If you are asked for much more I would try a second shop for a price check.

As to preventing rust - if your paint flakes off when you bend it back into shape paint it with some rustoleoum(sp?) with a rust inhibitor in the paint.

Steve


Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Steve,

Thanks. It is just bent at the sides so your ideas will work fine. I would like to not flake the paint off and cause rust so perhaps clamping some wood blocks on there a hand vise will do the trick.

How much should I expect to pay for the renewal kit? Is it very difficult to install? Are there adjustments involved?
 
  #7  
Old 09-14-10, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgencamaro View Post
The kit price will be based on your carb. Prices vary a bit but I would expect it to be around $20. If you are asked for much more I would try a second shop for a price check.

As to preventing rust - if your paint flakes off when you bend it back into shape paint it with some rustoleoum(sp?) with a rust inhibitor in the paint.

Steve

Thanks again Steve. I have been looking for the carburetor rebuild kit online and I have not had much luck (perhaps because Tecumeh is out of business). Thus far I have only been able to find the full carburetor which is not worth it to purchase. Would you happen to know if I could use an alternate rebuild kit for my below part numbers? Or, can I just get an o-ring somewhere? The engine seems to run ok, just leaks gas.

Model: 247.888530
Serial Number: 1J181B0552

Engine: Tecumseh
Sears Engine Model: 143.029001
Tecumseh Engine Model: HMSK90-156534E (I found this on an online list)
Engine Family: 1TPXS.3182BF
Displacement: 318
D. O. M.: 1276 E

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-14-10, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Thanks for the input Fixit!
No problem Steve, however, if you are not comfortable with bending some light sheet metal, perhaps carburetor repair should be left to some one more capable as well...
 
  #9  
Old 09-19-10, 11:07 AM
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Not that I am not comfortable, just never did it before (like framing, electrical, plumbing, tile and sheet rock before remodeling a kitchen and bathroom! We all have to learn everything as no one is born with knowledge....that's the point of this site! )

Ok, so I tried the bench vice and it didn't do much so I had at it with a dead blow hammer and it came out pretty good.

Now on to my carburetor.....I took the housing off to track down the leak. I hit the primer bulb a few times and found out where the gas was leaking:



Knowing nothing about carburetors, any ideas what would be causing this? I only found one place locally that had the parts (no one online seemed to) and they do not have a kit but rather all the parts separately that I would total up to about $30; for another ~$40 I can get the new carb.

I am leaning towards a new one but I want to double check before to see if this would be an easy fix with some o-rings or similar.

Thanks!
 
  #10  
Old 09-19-10, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Not that I am not comfortable, just never did it before (like framing, electrical, plumbing, tile and sheet rock before remodeling a kitchen and bathroom! We all have to learn everything as no one is born with knowledge....that's the point of this site! )
That is absolutely the point of this site, glad you took it on and got a good repair

Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Ok, so I tried the bench vice and it didn't do much so I had at it with a dead blow hammer and it came out pretty good.

Now on to my carburetor.....I took the housing off to track down the leak. I hit the primer bulb a few times and found out where the gas was leaking:



Knowing nothing about carburetors, any ideas what would be causing this? I only found one place locally that had the parts (no one online seemed to) and they do not have a kit but rather all the parts separately that I would total up to about $30; for another ~$40 I can get the new carb.

I am leaning towards a new one but I want to double check before to see if this would be an easy fix with some o-rings or similar.

Thanks!
Well as high as that leak appears to be, above the float bowl, I am still thinking needle and seat leaking and overflowing into the throat and on....Gas can creep a LONG way. There should be no fuel at the level to leak. It could be the float leaking and full of gas causing it to keep the needle valve from shutting off fuel flow.
If you drop the bowl and remove the float, shake it next to your ear, you can hear it shake if it leaking. If so replace the float. I would also replace the needle and seat and the bowl gasket and check the condition of the intake gasket, replace if needed.
It looks as though the intake manifold rises, so gas in the oil may not be of concern but still worth checking and being aware of.
I use a simple bench test method for problem carbs to check for the needle and seat working properly. A small gas can with a vent valve and short piece of fuel line. 1/4" fuel line will fit the vent on most plastic gas cans I have see or some reservoir, I connect the fuel line to the carb, with it off of the engine, other end to the gas can. The float bowl should fill and not overflow into the throat.
It is not too difficult and seems you certainly have the skills so, we can help with the knowledge
 
  #11  
Old 09-19-10, 07:00 PM
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Thanks for the additional info . I will tackle that once time allows so it may be a week or two before I reply back.

One item to note, the engine runs perfectly fine and starts up without a hitch. The only reason I noticed the leak is because it was all over the floor of my shed after several months of sitting. I would imagine that it is leaking slightly when running but it was only squirting out when I hit the primer (with the engine off).

Not sure if that changes the diagnosis.
 
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Old 09-19-10, 07:30 PM
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That still leads me to suspect the needle and seat. It may well be closing and just not sealing good or even have some debris stuck in it. So it can be a slow leak that when to sit long enough will seep and creep.
A sunken float might cause more of a rich condition or flooding.
Check the spark plug and see if it dark carbon fouled.
You might also find your air filter smelling of gas, can't quite tell what type of filter goes there...
 
  #13  
Old 09-20-10, 06:33 PM
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No air filter on a snow blower. It very well could be a small piece of debris between the needle and seat.

Steve
 
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Old 09-21-10, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgencamaro View Post
No air filter on a snow blower. It very well could be a small piece of debris between the needle and seat.

Steve
Thx Steve, I did mention at the beginning of this thread that I had never touched a snow blower . I did recall later that they don't have one but have been away for a couple of days....

Still do agree with the needle n seat tho
 
  #15  
Old 11-13-10, 06:36 PM
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Hi everyone,

It's been crazy with work and school so I finally got around to messing with the snowblower this weekend. Due to lack of time I decided just to buy a new carb and install it.

Well everything went fine and it started right up but it is still leaking gas from exactly the same place when I hit the primer button (with the engine off)!

Is this normal??? Did I get a bad carb??? Indicative of some other issue???

I do not know for sure if that is the place where the gas leaked out over the season and stained my floor, but I find it strange that with a brand new carb it would do the same thing.

I kept the old carb so I can mess with it when I have time and when I was spraying with carb cleaner it I noticed a tiny pin hole where the cleaner was coming out. I'm not sure if that is a normal hole or what?

Any ideas?

Thanks..
 
  #16  
Old 11-13-10, 07:28 PM
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Not A Leak

When you push the primer the blast of air from the primer is forced into the bowl this pushes the fuel up the emulsion tube in the center of the carb into the throat of the carb. If you push it too many times the excess fuel will flow out of the carb this is normal!!!!

AJ
 
  #17  
Old 11-15-10, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by aj-allen View Post
When you push the primer the blast of air from the primer is forced into the bowl this pushes the fuel up the emulsion tube in the center of the carb into the throat of the carb. If you push it too many times the excess fuel will flow out of the carb this is normal!!!!

AJ
Ah ha! Ok, thanks that makes me feel better. The whole reason for my replacement was to stop a gas leak from the snow blower that leaked fuel all over the shed. I thought I had found it when I saw gas coming out the throat of the carb but I guess not.

I didn't see any other areas that were leaking gas but as mentioned there was a small pin-hole in the old carb - is this normal as well?

The old carb also had a spring/screw at the bottom for draining fuel. I wonder if it was leaking from there? I didn't see any leaks from the fuel lines or gas tank (although I wasn't looking that hard as I thought the issue was with the carb).
 
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Old 11-15-10, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Ah ha! Ok, thanks that makes me feel better. The whole reason for my replacement was to stop a gas leak from the snow blower that leaked fuel all over the shed. I thought I had found it when I saw gas coming out the throat of the carb but I guess not.

I didn't see any other areas that were leaking gas but as mentioned there was a small pin-hole in the old carb - is this normal as well?

The old carb also had a spring/screw at the bottom for draining fuel. I wonder if it was leaking from there? I didn't see any leaks from the fuel lines or gas tank (although I wasn't looking that hard as I thought the issue was with the carb).
As others have already said in this post the old carb has a problem with the needle & seat or the float. If the needle is stuck open or the float will no longer float fuel will flow from the tank into the carb and be pushed out of every hole in the carb. Do yourself a favor and add an inline fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line!

AJ
 
  #19  
Old 11-15-10, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aj-allen View Post
As others have already said in this post the old carb has a problem with the needle & seat or the float. If the needle is stuck open or the float will no longer float fuel will flow from the tank into the carb and be pushed out of every hole in the carb. Do yourself a favor and add an inline fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line!

AJ
Ok, so you feel that the old carb was leaking? Where do I get a shut off valve?

One more thing - the guy at the repair shop where I purchased the carb said that now that gas has ethanol using stabilizer is not enough and keeping gas in the tank could have caused this issue. He recommends not using gas more than a month old and instead dumping it in the car (I do not feel good about dumping gas too old for my lawn equipment in a much more expensive machine though).

So even though I am using stabilizer (Seafoam) I should also drain all the fuel? If that is the case, how to I ensure that the carb is completely empty now that it no longer has the drain?

Thanks..
 
  #20  
Old 11-15-10, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Ok, so you feel that the old carb was leaking? Where do I get a shut off valve?

One more thing - the guy at the repair shop where I purchased the carb said that now that gas has ethanol using stabilizer is not enough and keeping gas in the tank could have caused this issue. He recommends not using gas more than a month old and instead dumping it in the car (I do not feel good about dumping gas too old for my lawn equipment in a much more expensive machine though).

So even though I am using stabilizer (Seafoam) I should also drain all the fuel? If that is the case, how to I ensure that the carb is completely empty now that it no longer has the drain?

Thanks..
Seafoam is IMHO a very poor stabilizer Briggs & stratton makes a much better one. You can get a fuel shutoff from any OPE dealer here are some pictures:



Just shut off the fuel & run the engine untill it stops. The fuel shutoff would go in the line under the fuel tank.

AJ
 
  #21  
Old 11-15-10, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
One more thing - the guy at the repair shop where I purchased the carb said that now that gas has ethanol using stabilizer is not enough and keeping gas in the tank could have caused this issue. He recommends not using gas more than a month old and instead dumping it in the car (I do not feel good about dumping gas too old for my lawn equipment in a much more expensive machine though).
Your car will not like very old fuel either but modern vehicles are far more tolerant of "older" fuel - not real, real old fuel. The high pressures utilized in modern fuel injected cars along with fuel lines designed not to corrode with the alcohol and moisture that accompanies that alcohol can operate normally with older gas.

Steve
 
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