Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

snowblower dies going to WOT quickly


Browndav's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
OR

11-02-10, 03:52 PM   #1  
snowblower dies going to WOT quickly

Over the summer I picked up an ancient Craftsman 24 snowblower for free. The engine model is 143-546012. Since it's so old, I haven't found any manuals for it online.

I got the carb cleaned out and all the leaks stopped, and it actually starts and runs great.

However, if I go to wide open throttle from idle too fast, it dies. If I move the throttle realllyy sllllowwwllyy, it'll stay running. Beneath the bowl is the needle valve, I presume for the main jet. I've adjusted it in 1/4 turn increments from all in almost to all out, with no change in behavior.

Any thoughts?

Easy bonus question: There is a little gearbox on the output of the engine. I put a dipstick down its tube, but didn't hit any oil. Should I have hit oil? How much, and what type?

(no idea why the picture is so small )
TechSmith | Screencast.com, online video sharing, 2010-11-02_1546

Thanks

 
Sponsored Links
indypower's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 754
NH

11-02-10, 07:06 PM   #2  
The carb screws should be set at 1-1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Setting is for both screws, the idle screw on the side and the wide open screw on the bottom of the bowl.
The gear box does need to have oil in it. Actually it is more like a grease. EPO 00 grease is what should be used and available at your local snowblower dealer.

 
hopkinsr2's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,561
Non-US

11-02-10, 08:56 PM   #3  
That is a speed reducer / torque amplifier gearbox. It should have 80-90 gear oil in it.. (all the golf club & lawn bowling club stuff I service with this on take 80w-90) Is this the originol engine?? It may be different.. It appears to be a single stage unit & I don't think the auger will turn fast enough to thro snow, as that gear box should be a 6 to 1 reduction... I could be wrong, tho... Set up the carb as Indy says & fine tune from there, (these carbs accellerate off a rich idle mixture as no acellerator pump) Give it a road test & let us know,,, Looks interesting!!! Roger

 
Browndav's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
OR

11-03-10, 11:28 AM   #4  
The idle screw on the side of the carb was only about 1/2 a turn out. At 1.5 out it behaves much better. I can't mash the throttle open, but I don't have to move it real slow either. (although, it is handy being able to kill it that way, rather than going in front to ground the spark plug )

For the gearbox, I probed about 2" into it with a coat hanger and came up dry. I know I don't want oil coming out the stovepipe, so I'll probably fill until I can see it (?).

This thing definitely came from an era of fewer safety regulations The auger is always on, and at full throttle is really moving I guess I'll find out if it can throw snow or not. No idea if it's the original engine or not.


 
indypower's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 754
NH

11-03-10, 03:27 PM   #5  
Posted By: Browndav The idle screw on the side of the carb was only about 1/2 a turn out. At 1.5 out it behaves much better. I can't mash the throttle open, but I don't have to move it real slow either. (although, it is handy being able to kill it that way, rather than going in front to ground the spark plug )

For the gearbox, I probed about 2" into it with a coat hanger and came up dry. I know I don't want oil coming out the stovepipe, so I'll probably fill until I can see it (?).

This thing definitely came from an era of fewer safety regulations The auger is always on, and at full throttle is really moving I guess I'll find out if it can throw snow or not. No idea if it's the original engine or not.

Full throttle should be about 3,000 rpms. Any faster you you run the risk of blowing ir seizing the engine. Adjust the throttle down.

 
Search this Thread