Kohler K 582 burning through cylinder heads
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Kohler K 582 burning through cylinder heads
I have a K582 flathead engine that I recently replaced both cylinder heads. After only about 2 hours of run time it appears to have burnt through another head (I have yet to inspect it, just going on what one of my employees has told me).
Any idea what could have caused this? I am thinking fuel issue maybe not enough fuel, or carb out of adjustment causing it to be too lean? Just trying to get some ideas so I can get this resolved and get this machine back running strong.
Any idea what could have caused this? I am thinking fuel issue maybe not enough fuel, or carb out of adjustment causing it to be too lean? Just trying to get some ideas so I can get this resolved and get this machine back running strong.
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Not sure if I understand, but you replaced both cylinder heads and ran the engine for two hours and a "head burnt out"?? Do you mean head gasket?
Why were the heads, or gaskets, replaced?
Was the head and block surfaces thoroughly cleaned (shiney)?
Were the bolts torqued in the right sequence and to specs?
I would check both head and block for damage and warpage. You can use a light and a straight edge to check flatness
Why were the heads, or gaskets, replaced?
Was the head and block surfaces thoroughly cleaned (shiney)?
Were the bolts torqued in the right sequence and to specs?
I would check both head and block for damage and warpage. You can use a light and a straight edge to check flatness

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Not sure if I understand, but you replaced both cylinder heads and ran the engine for two hours and a "head burnt out"?? Do you mean head gasket?
Why were the heads, or gaskets, replaced?
Was the head and block surfaces thoroughly cleaned (shiney)?
Were the bolts torqued in the right sequence and to specs?
I would check both head and block for damage and warpage. You can use a light and a straight edge to check flatness
Why were the heads, or gaskets, replaced?
Was the head and block surfaces thoroughly cleaned (shiney)?
Were the bolts torqued in the right sequence and to specs?
I would check both head and block for damage and warpage. You can use a light and a straight edge to check flatness

I will pull flywheel and check the key, but I would think it would probably be hard to start if timing was way off, but have had no problem starting it.
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I am sure you would have serious running problems if the mixture was "too lean".
I would make sure you have the right "heat range" sparkplugs.
After repair, run the engine--with NEW sparkplugs--for a short time while working the machine. Cut engine off at your present running RPM. Remove both plugs and observe the porcelon insulator color. It should be a light tan or light gray in color. White means it's too lean, and there is a check for that.
I would make sure you have the right "heat range" sparkplugs.
After repair, run the engine--with NEW sparkplugs--for a short time while working the machine. Cut engine off at your present running RPM. Remove both plugs and observe the porcelon insulator color. It should be a light tan or light gray in color. White means it's too lean, and there is a check for that.
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While I am totally unfamiliar with your equipment, I'll nevertheless add my 2 cents. I assume this is an air cooled engine. Air cooled engines rely on a fan of some sort that directs air to the cylinder head. Is air being supplied?