I have to change the xmsn drive belt on a cub cadet LT1050. I have been told by some folks that you have to unbolt the engine and then lift it to get the belt over the engine pulley. Some have suggested bending the tabs at the engine pulley. I sure could use some more insight on this by experts.

 

No, you just take the bolt out of the crankshaft, slide the pulley down enough for the belt to clear the guides, and push the pulley back up and put the bolt in.

 

This unit has an electric clutch on it. The pulley is above the electric clutch. It looks like the tractor frame is constructed to also serve as the belt retainer and kind of hides the xmsn pulley I suspect the xmsn pulley is probably froze on the crank and you cant get a puller on the pulley. If the xmsn pullley slides down on the crank, it wont be too bad, however most pulleys I have seen need a puller to get them off.

 

This was one of the ugliest repairs I have ever done. I got the electric clutch off real easy. The xmsn drive pulley would not budge so had to bend back the belt guide tabs that are actually part of the frame and removed the old belt and installed a new one. I then re-bent the tabs back in their original positions. Although this technique worked this time, the next time this belt is replaced, the motor will have to be pulled as I am not sure if the tabs can be bent back again without breaking. The electric clutch was very difficult to line up and re-install even with the key guide mark. I had to file the edges of the key and the keyway to get it started on the shaft.

 

Both the clutch and the pulley <should> just slip off. That's not always the case though, unfortunately. Glad you got it. Usually they aren't that much trouble but MTD doesn't put never-seize on their cranks before putting the pulleys on. Guess that costs a few cents extra.

 

here is a collected (from others) instruction that worked for me!

To replace a transmission drive belt on a Cub Cadet LT1045 or LT 1050 you need to remove the deck, preferably put the front wheels up on blocks or stands.

Take a good look at the PTO position: notice the slot on the right fits to a bracket that protrudes from the right frame. It must go back on that way!

Use an impact wrench (you need the speed of the impact wrench because the engine will turn) and a 5/8" socket and reverse the bolt out of the bottom center of the PTO. Swing the PTO to the left and support it on a paint can, cardboard box or whatever…but don’t dangle it by the wiring and damage the wiring. Alternately, unplug the PTO power (directly under the engine, which can be difficult to reach).

If you don't have an impact wrench take a spark plug out and push rope into the hole. This will bind the cylinder and keep the drive shaft from turning. (Remove rope and replace plug when finished. Battery and/or spark plug wires should be removed for this process for safety.)

The PTO may be stuck on there so you may want to tap it with a hammer and a block of wood carefully to release it.

Loosen old belt from tensioner pulley. Lower engine pulley on drive shaft, below pulley "keys". It may be difficult to remove. Spray with "PB Blaster" or similar bolt loosener spray. Careful use of a wheel puller can help here. But, the pulley will easily bend, so use precious little pressure.

If the pulley doesn’t want to budge, move to the next easiest way: remove both steering arms where they are attached at the half-circle steering gear (1/2” nut each), thus allowing the half-circle gear to move freely left to right and allowing access to the two rear engine mounting bolts (1/2”). Remove all four engine mounting bolts. Using a pry bar, the engine w/ pulley attached can be easily moved around enough to get the old belt off and the new one on.

Remove old belt from engine pulley first, transmission pulley last. Remember how belt goes around pulleys before doing so, draw a map if needed.

You'll need to put the belt on the transmission pulley first then thread the belt up to the engine pulley. Thread your belt back through the pulleys. Leave the belt off the tensioner and guide pulleys until you re-align and tighten the engine bolts. (note: make sure your spring is strong enough to tension the belt or buy a new one).

The PTO is "keyed" on the shaft and the clutch has a slot that fits on
the aforementioned frame bracket on the right side. Replace bolt and washer. Torque bolt to 38-50 ft. lbs. using the rope method as described before. Put your deck back on and you're ready to mow again.

 

Very good explanation!. Just for some more detail on the rope.. I had to keep pushing the rope in (1/4" Nylon) for 10 or 12 inches. Once that much rope was in I ended up with about 4 rotations on the 5/8's bolt until the shaft stopped moving. Also , my belt was gone when I started and the diagram on the manual was wrong. Remember that the v's go into the v pulleys and the flat goes into the flat pulleys.

 

Welcome to the forums.

Thanks for the additional information.

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