Poulan Pro Tractor W/ Kohler CV16s
#1
04-11-11, 04:50 PM
Poulan Pro Tractor W/ Kohler CV16s
I have a 10 year old Poulan Pro garden Tractor with Kohler CV16s engine. In getting it preped for the season changed oil, fuel and air filter and replaced spark plug. also found and replaced a cracked vacuum hose between carb and valve head. The engine ran rough last fall before I winterized it. I should also note I pulled the fan housing and found a mouse nest, also had to repair wires that were damaged. It is hard to start and often will backfire while starting. When I do get it started it appears to run a little rough. I tried cleaning carb by spraying with carb cleaner. I pulled fuel line and it flows well to carb. I should note this engine has "smart module" ignition. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Rich
Rich
#5
04-12-11, 09:48 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Does it run a little better if you apply partial choke? Have you cleaned the carburetor internally? Was the plug wire one of the wires that were chewed?
#6
04-12-11, 02:31 PM
The Spark plug wire was not damaged. If I apply partial choke it sputters and stops running. It has a Walbro LMK carb with fuel shut off, I was thinking of ordering a repair kit to rebuild it. Not sure if its worth it. A far as cleaning I only sprayed it with carb cleaner.
#7
04-12-11, 09:40 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Take the fuel solenoid off, remove the bowl, clean the bowl and the solenoid and make sure the solenoid is working. See where that gets you.
#8
04-14-11, 10:05 AM
I pulled the carb & cleaned it, fuel solenoid tested ok. It is very hard to start and it will back fire occasionally when trying to start.
When I get it started it is a little rough and noisy.
Rich
When I get it started it is a little rough and noisy.
Rich
#9
04-14-11, 06:04 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Check the flywheel key. For some reason I've seen several kohlers with sheared flywheel keys for no apparent reason.
#10
04-15-11, 04:01 PM
It looks like the key may be sheared off I inserted an punch about 1/2" into keyway. I would have thought there would a key slot on
both surfaces. I also noticed the magnet on the flywheel is almost touching I could bearly get a piece of paper between it. I took some picks let me how what you think.
Pictures by Rlmjlm01 - Photobucket
both surfaces. I also noticed the magnet on the flywheel is almost touching I could bearly get a piece of paper between it. I took some picks let me how what you think.
Pictures by Rlmjlm01 - Photobucket
#11
04-15-11, 09:41 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
You'll have to pull the flywheel to see. It has a half-moon key, so one side of the keyway can't be seen from the top.
#12
04-20-11, 08:10 AM
I am having real trouble pulling the flywheel used pb blaster and a Gear pulling tool. I am afraid the bolts might snap. Is applying heat
a good or bad idea. Any thoughts would help.
Rich
a good or bad idea. Any thoughts would help.
Rich
#13
04-20-11, 09:19 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Bad idea. Put pressure on it with the puller, then whack the flywheel a few times near the center, hard enough to shock it but not so hard it cracks it or does damage. Be sure when you put it back on that none of the pb blaster or any type or grease or oil is on the shaft or in the hole in the flywheel.
#14
04-20-11, 01:55 PM
Cheese - Worked Like Charm 2 Raps and it came free Thanks!!! Key looks partially sheared which leads me to the next problem how do I get the key out. There is barely enough to grab with vice grips. Tried to free it with a punch tool no such luck. Do you have any thoughts. Thanks...
Rich
Rich
#15
04-20-11, 09:37 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
I usually tap it out with a flat screwdriver. You may have to persuade it a little harder, lol.
#16
04-21-11, 03:52 PM
I got the key out and replaced with new one. Put it all back together and I am having the same problem. Very difficult to start.
It it turns over fine, back fires, wants to start, it sputters several rovolutions, but can't seem to catch, pulled spark plug it was coated with fuel but not soaked. Its getting fuel, spark. If I keep at it long enough it will start and run but run rough. What should I
check next? This engine ran like a charm last summer.Thanks
Rich
After looking over other posts do you think it might be the coil?
It it turns over fine, back fires, wants to start, it sputters several rovolutions, but can't seem to catch, pulled spark plug it was coated with fuel but not soaked. Its getting fuel, spark. If I keep at it long enough it will start and run but run rough. What should I
check next? This engine ran like a charm last summer.Thanks
Rich
After looking over other posts do you think it might be the coil?
Last edited by rlmjlm01; 04-21-11 at 05:12 PM.
#17
04-21-11, 08:55 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Does the oil smell like gas? Try clamping off the fuel line and see if it will start... I wonder if it's flooded. I don't think it's the coil at this point. Since the flywheel key is ok, I'm reverting back to the carburetor. Does the oil smell like gas? Can you clamp the fuel line shut and get it to run better momentarily?
#18
05-02-11, 06:39 AM
Had to take a break from working on this engine. The oil does not smell like gas, and I did try clamping off the fuel line with no success. I did test out the coil with a multimeter and it was way off the kohler specs. I replaced with new coil, got a fresh charge on the battery and it starts on the first try. It is still a little rough, and I think I might get a kit and re-build the carb. I do think the
muffer is toast after all those backfires. The muffer studds are pretty rusted. Is there any tricks to freeing up the nuts holding the
muffler to exhaust studs. If I do break a stud what would I do next. I am not sure if kohlers engines need good exhaust back pressure to perform. Thanks!!
Rich
muffer is toast after all those backfires. The muffer studds are pretty rusted. Is there any tricks to freeing up the nuts holding the
muffler to exhaust studs. If I do break a stud what would I do next. I am not sure if kohlers engines need good exhaust back pressure to perform. Thanks!!
Rich
#19
05-02-11, 06:51 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Spray some PBlaster on the rusty stuff and let it sit a while, then if they don't want to turn, crank it up and let it get good and hot and it should come loose. Usually they come right off even though they look badly rusted.
#20
05-07-11, 04:15 PM
Hi Cheese- Was able to get get the bolts off the exhaust manifold, the muffler seemed fine. I cut the grass the other day- Engine appeared loud and lacked power it had in the past. I decided to pull the head after reading some posts. Sure as hell the head gasket was blown. It had a 1/16 " tear just above the exhaust manifold. I plan to get new head gasket on Monday. Should I
use new bolts or re-use old. I cleaned up the surfaces and the head was true and not warped. The head and top of cylinder were
pretty clean only a slight coat of carbon. Should the head gasket surfaces be clean and dry or coated with oil. The valves are not adjustable. Is there any thing I should be concerned with during start up? Also should the head be re-torqued after first use?
Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Thanks Rich
use new bolts or re-use old. I cleaned up the surfaces and the head was true and not warped. The head and top of cylinder were
pretty clean only a slight coat of carbon. Should the head gasket surfaces be clean and dry or coated with oil. The valves are not adjustable. Is there any thing I should be concerned with during start up? Also should the head be re-torqued after first use?
Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Thanks Rich
#21
05-07-11, 09:02 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
The head bolts... do they taper to a smaller diameter between the threaded part and the head? If so, replace them. If not, reuse them. The surfaces should be clean and dry. Torque the bolts in the proper sequence during assembly and that should be sufficient.
#22
05-13-11, 07:43 PM
Hi Cheese- New head gasket and its a new engine. Fires immediately on turn of key and has full power.Thanks for your help. This site is a great tool. Rich
