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Briggs Stratton 26HP won't start, won't turn over


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05-13-11, 08:19 AM   #1  
Briggs Stratton 26HP won't start, won't turn over

Just brought the mower out to use 2 weeks ago to find the fuel line was cracked and leaking. The only thing I did to the engine at the time was take off the plastic shroud on top to gain access to the clip at the manifold. replaced lines and put in new battery and everything was good. While mowing I set the parking brake and disengaged the mower to open the gate and as I lifted off of the seat the engine started to quit, so I sat back down and figured I would try to finish the lawn and check it out later. A few minutes later I set the brake again to climb off and same thing, this time it quit because I had to get off. Well now it won't start.

My first thought was that it was the safety switch. But it was not that, after wasting all the time pulling it out and testing it, it's fine and I actually get 12v to the starter when the key is turned. checked ground and the motor is well grounded to the battery, all 12v connections are good too. The engine actually started a couple times before the fuel lines and battery were replaced and also started a few times after the fuel lines and this was all in the same day. Engine has 149 hours on it and there were no obvious indications of starter trouble

my engine
Briggs Stratton 26hp equipped with powerlink
YBSXS.7242VF 275363
Model 44677A
Type 0201 E1
Code 020418YG

 
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05-13-11, 08:22 AM   #2  
I did the old hammer tap to the starter too, nothing happened

 
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05-13-11, 08:48 AM   #3  
What mower is this one? There are as few as 3 safety switches that could be a problem...
What type of blade engagement does it have?


Just needs a bigger hammer
Peace

 
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05-13-11, 09:01 AM   #4  
Older (unknown age 12yrs maybe) craftsman LT1000

Wouldn't 12v at the starter when i crank the key mean that all safety switches are working?

Not sure how describe the blade engage…lever on the dash, when I slide it up it locks in place and underneath some pulleys move and I have mow.

 
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05-13-11, 10:40 AM   #5  
When I crank the key, i have 12V at the starter
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_t...1000001142.JPG



an a picture of my blade engagement
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_t...1000001143.JPG

 
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05-13-11, 11:03 AM   #6  
I'm not 100% certain but I think the safety switches ground out the ignition killing the spark/engine. It may have nothing to do with the ignition switch or starter. You may be able to engage the starter but the ignition system is still grounded out by the safety circuit. This would allow the engine to turn over but it will not sputter, fire or try to run.

You say you are getting 12v right to the starter. Is the starter turning or trying to engage when you are seeing the power right on the starter post?

 
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05-13-11, 11:18 AM   #7  
I agree about the safety switches killing the spark. Under normal circumstances if the parking brake is not set or the blade IS engaged the starter will not even engage. In my current situation I am not getting any cranking (starter will not engage) or anything and i have the brake set and blade disengaged. I turn the ignition switch on and hear a click somewhere near the front of the engine (as I always have) and i turn to crank and I get NOTHING. no cranking, however at the starter I DO have 12V (where the yellow arrow is pointing) when turning the key to crank which leads me to believe that all safety checks are in place and working properly (however I am not an expert and I'm learning as I go)

If it is the starter that is bad, I don't understand why the engine died the other day when i had the brake set and got off of the seat...

 
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05-13-11, 11:45 AM   #8  
There is no noise or anything or any indication that the starter is trying to move. does this mean bad starter or solenoid? Is there any other safety factor at that point that could prevent it from cranking? I assume if I have 12V at the starter post that all checks are working and it's ready to start.

 
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05-13-11, 12:15 PM   #9  
Yes, if you are hearing a click (probably the solenoid) and getting power all the way to the starter I suspect the starter is bad. If the solenoid were bad you might not hear the click and power would not get to the starter.

As to why the engine died previously you may have to get the starter fixed to track down the other problem. It could be an intermittent problem in the safety circuit.

 
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05-13-11, 07:44 PM   #10  
So I went back this afternoon to check voltages again and today I wasn't getting 12v at starter post when turning key, except one time I moved the test meter lead a little and suddenly it turned over. I turned the key again and it turned over again. So I put it back together open the fuel shutoff and now won't crank again so I mess with the blade lever and sure enough it starts up. Now each time I got off or restarted it I had to fiddle with the lever but it works just fine otherwise.

Now I'm just stumped why it wouldn't crank when I had 12v coming to the starter those 8-10 times I tested it yesterday.


Now for the next issue, with the blade engagement lever, now several times it wouldn't disengage after releasing the lever. You could see all the slack in the little opening behind the lever. everytime I had to get off or start it I had to really make sure he lever was all the way down(off) any ideas on adjusting that? LT1000 model 917.272920

 
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05-13-11, 07:55 PM   #11  
couple thoughts. Blade release might have a spring to pull out the the idler pulley and it's not working. As for 12v at starter but no crank from it. Could be defective starter but could be circuit is showing 12v but there are poor connections which will not allow sufficient current to flow to move the starter. I once had a case where I got my 12v at the solenoid small lead but the connection at the key switch was too corroded to let enough current flow to actuate the solenoid.

 
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05-13-11, 09:10 PM   #12  
Where are you putting your test leads when you test for power at the starter? There cannot be 12 volts at the starter if the solenoid isn't engaged unless something is connected wrong.

A note for the future... there are very fragile ceramic magnets attached to the inside of the starter case, just 1/8" from the hammer when you hit it. When they break, the starter is done. I have replaced a LOT of them with little dings on the side (and corresponding broken magnets on the inside) where someone tried to tap it when there was some problem prohibiting it from starting.


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05-14-11, 06:19 AM   #13  
Posted By: cheese Where are you putting your test leads when you test for power at the starter? There cannot be 12 volts at the starter if the solenoid isn't engaged unless something is connected wrong.
I put the lead on the right post in the picture below. When it finally started I moved the lead onto the ring terminal itself instead of the post.

A note for the future... there are very fragile ceramic magnets attached to the inside of the starter case, just 1/8" from the hammer when you hit it. When they break, the starter is done. I have replaced a LOT of them with little dings on the side (and corresponding broken magnets on the inside) where someone tried to tap it when there was some problem prohibiting it from starting.
I did not feel safe hitting it so I only hit it 3 times with the rubber mallet.

 
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05-14-11, 09:02 AM   #14  
What was the other lead of the meter connected to?


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05-14-11, 09:07 AM   #15  
Posted By: cheese What was the other lead of the meter connected to?
Negative post of battery. Verified that I have good grounds throughout.

 
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05-17-11, 09:00 PM   #16  
That sounds like backfeeding. There wouldn't be 12 volts to a starter even while cranking, since the starter draws the voltage down. There wouldn't be voltage going to the starter without it turning or something getting hot unless the starter is bad, which it apparently is not since it works from time to time. You have a ground issue. Look where the negative cable bolts to the frame. I'm guessing it is loose or rusted, or there is paint over the contacting surfaces. Something is causing the voltage to pass all the way to the frame and not get back to the battery (except for when you connect your voltmeter to the starter terminal and battery).


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