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B&S Vanguard engine carb removal


dick1947's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 35
NY

05-21-11, 01:42 PM   #1  
B&S Vanguard engine carb removal

Hi, my 16 hp Vanguard engine (v-twin) recently began to idle roughly (engine would not maintain a constant idle speed). Tried some spray carb cleaner - no good. I'm thinking I have to remove carb and give it a good cleaning, but never worked on one of these engines. Looks like I have to disassemble a good part of the engine in order to remove the carb. However, there are four screws on the upper half of the carb and I was wondering if that will give me the access I need to clean the parts that might be causing the problem. (the engine model is 303447).

I didn't want to get into a major project at this point of the mowing season. At full throtle, the engine runs good enough to mow the lawn.

First, do you think the problem I described is a result of a dirty carb? Have you had any luck with a gasoline additive to try and clean as I drive? Will removing those four screws give me access to the parts I may need to clean? Thanks for any help.

Dick

 
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cheese's Avatar
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05-21-11, 09:55 PM   #2  
Removing the top of the carb should allow you to clean out the inside of the bowl and the main jet. You should also spray through the idle circuit as best as you can through the mixture screw hole.


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05-29-11, 01:16 PM   #3  
If there was ever a "mechanic in a can" then it has got to be SeaFoam. I'm a convert! This stuff is magic, & certainly worth a try. It works in gasoline and oil both plus works as a direct throttle body / carb throat cleaner. I have used this stuff successfully on several engines, including one that sat without being run for over 2 years. Should be available at your local parts store. I have found it at AutoZone, O'Rielley's as well as Walmart.
Good luck!

TexasFire

 
dick1947's Avatar
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06-07-11, 07:45 PM   #4  
I purchased a can of SeaFoam before I saw TexasFire's post and I've run less than half a tank with it. No improvement yet. I'll continue to use before taking the carb apart. I have noticed, however, that the engine is now using sugnificantly more oil than it was before I started having this problem. When I first start the engine I get some smoke, but attributed that to full choke.
Do you think the oil usage and the poor engine idle is related? Can't idle at all. When I lower to less than half throtle, the engine quites. Do you think I have bigger problem than dirty carb?
Thanks again for your time.

Dick

 
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06-07-11, 09:27 PM   #5  
Smell the oil, does it smell like gas?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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dick1947's Avatar
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07-25-11, 08:41 PM   #6  
I've run almost two cans of Seafoam thru the gas tank and no improvement. I took the plunge and bought a new carb. Now the problem is getting the old one off. My God! I've removed the air shrouds(?). Of the two bolts holding the carb, the one that toward the center of the engine (as oppose to the one closer to the steering wheel)...is there a special wrench needed to remove the bolt? There is almost no room to get any kind of a normal wrench or socket on the bolt let alone trying to turn it.

Oh, also, this carb has what I think is an electronic full shut off selenoid. If this were bad, would it cause t he engine to "hunt"? Thanks for the help

Dick

 
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07-26-11, 10:05 AM   #7  
The fuel shutoff rarely makes an engine hunt. If it is getting gas at all, it usually means the fuel shutoff is working.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
dick1947's Avatar
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07-26-11, 09:42 PM   #8  
In the box with the new carb was a note that said, "...if carb is being used to replace Mikuni carb with a fuel shut off solenoid, the solenoid must also be replaced". Is this just another way to get another $85 from me or will there be a problem using the old solenoid? Thanks again.

Remove a couple more parts. There is still hope that I can get the old one off.

 
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