Briggs and Stratton 402417-068001 rebuild Question
#1
06-18-11, 08:17 PM
Briggs and Stratton 402417-068001 rebuild Question
Hi, I am interested in rebuilding my Briggs 16hp engine on my old Cub. I have never rebuilt a small engine before. I have done a lot of other work myself, but nothing this involved. I am not in any hurry to get it done so time is not an issue. I plan on taking my time and doing it right. I guess my 1st question is, can anyone point me in the right direction to get a service manual for this engine? I would also like to know if it is always imperative to have machining work done on a rebuild? The engine still runs ut it runs very rough, there are definitely some clearance issues in play here. If it is going to cost me a fortune to get it machined should I just look for a replacement engine, and if so are they hard to find. I would buy a used one most likely. Any help will be appreciated The tractor it is on is in a little rough shape but it handled so well and was very comfortable to drive. I like it a lot more than the new Craftsman GT5000 I use to mow. The Cub mows much better and has a 50" deck and a creeper gear.
#2
06-19-11, 12:13 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
What clearance issues do you have evidence of? Does it knock? Machining is not always "imperative" but may be required, depending on the measurements of the cylinders, valve clearances and crankshaft. You'll need to hone the cylinders to obtain proper cross-hatch at the very least for the new rings to seat in.
#3
06-19-11, 05:19 AM
Initially I would think in terms of a tune up- that may fix a lot of things. If it's burning oil, then think about putting in set of rings and doing the valves. Tthe latter two may or may not have machining required. The bore runout (difference between top of cylinder and bottom of cylinder where the wear occurs) should be checked.
You always have to weigh what you put into it with what you'll have afterwards. You won't make a new tractor out of it with a rebuild, but if the engine is the weak link now you may get a lot more years of service with it. Depends what you're looking for in the end.
You always have to weigh what you put into it with what you'll have afterwards. You won't make a new tractor out of it with a rebuild, but if the engine is the weak link now you may get a lot more years of service with it. Depends what you're looking for in the end.
#4
06-20-11, 07:24 PM
Originally Posted by marbobj
Initially I would think in terms of a tune up- that may fix a lot of things. If it's burning oil, then think about putting in set of rings and doing the valves. Tthe latter two may or may not have machining required. The bore runout (difference between top of cylinder and bottom of cylinder where the wear occurs) should be checked.
You always have to weigh what you put into it with what you'll have afterwards. You won't make a new tractor out of it with a rebuild, but if the engine is the weak link now you may get a lot more years of service with it. Depends what you're looking for in the end.
You always have to weigh what you put into it with what you'll have afterwards. You won't make a new tractor out of it with a rebuild, but if the engine is the weak link now you may get a lot more years of service with it. Depends what you're looking for in the end.
#5
06-23-11, 08:13 PM
If it's knocking you're often in a tear down, rod or piston/rings, and if the knocking is from the crank it may need machining. The knock can be coming from the crank/rod, or the piston/rod/wristpin. Other sources of a knock are; carbon loose in the combustion chamber, advanced timing ( in your case point gap), or poor quality fuel.
Usually luck is against you, though and the knock is from the crank.
Usually luck is against you, though and the knock is from the crank.
