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Craftsman w/ 16 HP Kohler issues????


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08-22-11, 09:01 PM   #1  
Craftsman w/ 16 HP Kohler issues????

I have a Craftsman Model # 917.271070 with a Kohler Pro 16hp model CV16S spec.# 43519 Family SKH426UIG2RB.
To start with, it would not crank, I found a bad connection on A1 on the ignition switch, so I fixed it. Then it still had no crank, I then found a blown 10 Amp fuse (which I have determined should be a 15 Amp?) I replaced it and it would then crank, but it blew the fuse after a few cranks, replaced again, this time it started and rean for a bit, then blew fuse again. Checked the wiring and found a burnt connection at the 2 wire conector w/ 2 yellow wires going to the regulator, I repaired the conection, and it started up, but blew fuse again. Replaced the fuse and unplugged the wires, and it ran, I then plugged them in, one at a time while running, and noticed the wire that was previously burnt was getting warm, so I unplugged the voltage regulator, and the yellow wires from that plug, and it still ran, and no warm wires. Where should I go from here? What would my next step be in diagnosis? I looked at the Kohler website, and it does not show this engine?? THe sears website diagrams suck, and show none of the charging system. Any help I could get would be great!

 
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08-23-11, 09:47 AM   #2  
Only the voltage regulator wires are unplugged now? If so, I would tend to think the regulator is the problem. If you have an volt/ohmmeter, you could check the regulator.


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08-23-11, 03:03 PM   #3  
I have the Voltage regulator unplugged, and the 2 yellow wires that plug into the pigtail that goes to the voltage regulator plug. If I have it all plugged in, it blows the fuse, if I unplug the regulator, and leave the 2 yellow wires plugged in, they get hot. I would assume the wires would get hot with the regulator plugged in, but it will not run long enough to find out.

 
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08-23-11, 09:58 PM   #4  
The 2 yellow wires, they go to the outer 2 prongs on the regulator right, and then the middle wire is white?


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08-24-11, 02:56 PM   #5  
The 2 yellow wires go to the out side 2 prongs, yes, and there are also 2 white wires that go to them also. The center wire is black.

 
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08-24-11, 07:16 PM   #6  
Do you have a voltmeter?
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08-26-11, 11:06 AM   #7  
Yes, I do have a voltmeter.

 
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08-26-11, 10:25 PM   #8  
With te engine running full throttle, check for AC voltage from each yellow wire to ground. There should be around 28vac or so.


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08-29-11, 10:57 AM   #9  
Ok, I tested the connections where the yellow wires hook up to a brownish wire and a white wire, they go then to a connector that goes to the regulator. With the connector disconnected from the regulator they each had around 16 volts AC to ground. The yellow wires themselves had nothing. I assume you wanted it tested the way I did.

 
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08-29-11, 08:46 PM   #10  
The wires coming from under the flywheel are the ones needing to be checked for voltage. I'm thinking they're yellow from memory.


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08-29-11, 08:59 PM   #11  
The wires coming from under the flywheel are both white, they go to the connector that plugs into the regulator. They are in the same plugs as the white and the brownish colored pigtail wires that plug into the yellow wires. One white wire shares the same terminal as the white pigtail, and the other white shares the same terminal as the brown wire. There is a black wire in the center terminal.

 
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09-09-11, 01:34 PM   #12  
Did I stump you? I really hope someone can help me. I assume I tested it correctly? and if I did, and I got 16 VAC to ground, then the generator is drawing too many amps trying to put out what it should for voltage?? Is this correct?? I don't want to go thru the work and $$ replacing it if that is not it, but I assume it is, I just have no way of knowing if I am thinking correctly. I could take a picture and post it, if you can post pictures on here? showing the wiring??

 
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09-09-11, 11:45 PM   #13  
No, you didn't stump me, I was waiting for you to answer with the voltage readings I asked for.

16 vac from each stator leg to ground with the engine running full throttle is not sufficient. It should be nearly 2x that. Check for continuity from each stator leg to ground. I'm thinking the stator is shorted.


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09-11-11, 08:45 AM   #14  
Oh, well I had posted my results on the 29th, and hadn't heard back, so I wasn't sure. I appreciate your help. I will check continuity tonight.

 
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09-11-11, 06:36 PM   #15  
No problem, you didn't post results the 29th... just that the wires were different colored than what I thought. The results (voltage readings) were posted the 9th and I answered the 10th, but no problem... just letting you know I hadn't forgotten you, was just waiting for you.


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09-13-11, 01:53 AM   #16  
Posted By: BowHunterFett Ok, I tested the connections where the yellow wires hook up to a brownish wire and a white wire, they go then to a connector that goes to the regulator. With the connector disconnected from the regulator they each had around 16 volts AC to ground. The yellow wires themselves had nothing. I assume you wanted it tested the way I did.
I tested each wire for continuity to ground tonight, and there is none. Not shorted to ground. Is there some sort of clearnce adjustment to the generator coil that could be causing this?

 
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09-13-11, 10:32 AM   #17  
Were you running the engine at full throttle during this test?

There are no adjustments to make to any of the charging components.


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09-13-11, 11:42 PM   #18  
Yes, it was at full throttle.

 
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09-14-11, 04:51 PM   #19  
Ok, check the resistance between the two legs that were producing 16vac, but this time with the engine off. What resistance reading do you get?


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09-16-11, 02:41 AM   #20  
0.5 ohms of resistence between the 2 wires with the engine off

 
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09-16-11, 09:55 AM   #21  
You may have to pull the flywheel and have a look at the magnets under the flywheel and the condition of the stator. The resistance checks are within specs and it sounds like it should be charging, however, the 16vac on each leg is not enough.


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09-17-11, 12:28 AM   #22  
What should I be looking for? Kinda hope it is as simple as rust or a little corrosion of some sort that can be cleaned up, but my luck is terrible.

 
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09-17-11, 04:24 PM   #23  
I don't know, anything not normal. The flywheel magnets may have come loose... (common problem).


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09-26-11, 07:03 PM   #24  
I finally got time to pull the flywheel, and all looks ok. Magnets were all still snug, now noticable damage to the coils that I could see, there was a little rust, but not too bad.

 
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09-26-11, 07:11 PM   #25  
Sorry, no noticable damage, not now.

 
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09-27-11, 09:13 AM   #26  
Well, I was hoping the problem would reveal itself once you got the flywheel off. The only other thing I can think of that could cause these problems is the relays under the gas tank. Nevermind, that wouldn't have any effect on the low voltage reading coming from the stator while it's unplugged. I guess at this point I would put a stator on it to see, but I have the benefit of having extra stators on hand to try out without having to buy one. Your resistance testing of the stator seems to be fine, but the voltage reading is not.


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09-29-11, 08:27 PM   #27  
Do you have any good places online to get parts that you could suggest?

 
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10-02-11, 10:25 AM   #28  
I don't have any that I deal with in particular. You'll probably find a better price on ebay.


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