need main shaft bearing for Troy Bilt chipper

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  #1  
Old 10-15-11, 12:04 PM
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need main shaft bearing for Troy Bilt chipper

The bearings on the main shaft (chipper chute side) on my Troy Bilt Chiller just went out. The model number is 15042 - an early to mid 90s model.

In any event, I have two questions:

1) Does anyone know where I can find this part? I think the part number is 20.

2) It looks pretty simple to replace. Can anyone provide instructions?

thanks.
 
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Old 10-15-11, 01:42 PM
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Correction

Sorry- I got out the manual and the model number for the chipper is
150145. Serial number: T3901483.

I also looked at the parts manual and it looks like there are at least two sets of bearings on the chipper chute side.

Again - any ideas about sources for the parts and how to take this bad boy apart would appreciated!
 
  #3  
Old 10-15-11, 01:51 PM
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The Chipper

If you can get the bearings out of the machine, read the numbers in them, google ball bearings, and you should find bearings for your machine probably cheaper than the manufacturer or if you can find a bearing house near you, just show up with your sample, and your good to go.
Sid
 
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Old 10-15-11, 04:07 PM
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Wow. I hadn't thought of that. The flange and other hold downs all seem pretty rusted. It may be a struggle. We'll see. Thanks.
 
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Old 10-17-11, 10:10 AM
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Your model number(s) don't show up on my computer parts lookup and I could not find a picture of either number when Googling. So, I can't help you without at least knowing what you have generally with something to go by, picture-wise. Even trying to Google "Garden Way" (what Troy-Bilt was known as prior) I came up empty. I agree that a local bearing supplier would be best as I doubt you can even still get these parts from MTD (the newest owner of the Troy-Bilt name).
 
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Old 10-17-11, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by doc View Post
The bearings on the main shaft (chipper chute side) on my Troy Bilt Chiller just went out. The model number is 15042 - an early to mid 90s model.

In any event, I have two questions:

1) Does anyone know where I can find this part? I think the part number is 20.

2) It looks pretty simple to replace. Can anyone provide instructions?

thanks.

Try going to Troy-Bilt outdoor power equipment for lawn and garden and type in your model number and you will get a view of your tiller and an IPL to order from.
 
  #7  
Old 10-17-11, 06:36 PM
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I tried the TB website with no luck. I've gotten parts for this chipper online before (e.g., ebay), but it doesn't look like I'll find this one.

I'm going to call both of our local TB service shops and see what they can do. If they can't, I'll try pulling this thing apart and shop around for bearings locally.

I hope I can find a solution on this one - I'd have after 20 years to finally have to junk this thing.

Thanks all.

jack
 
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Old 10-17-11, 06:53 PM
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Guys, I am so sorry - I can't read my own handwriting. The model number is 15014S.

In any event, I tried parts and service dot com - they listed the parts as no longer available. Makes sense - the chipper is 1991 vintage.

I'll call Clark Farm Supply tomorrow.
 
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Old 10-17-11, 08:54 PM
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supposedly here
MTD - 1900105 - BEARING-SH
 
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Old 10-22-11, 01:19 PM
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Update

Thanks for all the replies. I took the chipper down to my local repair guy. He's going to take it apart and look for replacement parts. We'll see how much the estimate is.

Again, thanks.
 
  #11  
Old 11-01-11, 06:36 PM
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Rip tb

Well, got the call from my mechanic. He can get the bearings but not the flange. I guess I'm going to have to say goodbye to this machine after 20 good years. If you read this, have a beer to celebrate a long and productive life!! I'll pay for my beer by taking the TB to the scrap metal yard.
 
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Old 11-01-11, 06:46 PM
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The sad part of this is a very good engine is going to be trashed. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 11-02-11, 04:00 AM
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Yes - this IS a great engine. Too bad....
 
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Old 11-02-11, 06:48 AM
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The bearings are generic, and should be available from a supplier like Grainger or McMaster Carr. I surely would not junk this machine so quickly, as they are one of the better designed chippers ever made. I should know, I own 2 of these.
 
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Old 11-02-11, 09:53 AM
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Agree with bontai to a point. The bearings are not likely "generic", BUT, if you brought this job to our shop I guarantee we could get it back in shape. It may not be a factory finish but I'll bet you it would operate when we were done with it - and probably last longer than the original bearings. Your mechanic needs a lesson in improvise, adapt and overcome.
 
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Old 11-02-11, 04:13 PM
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I hear what you two guys are saying, but my local options are limited. I didn't mention it, but the flange needs replacing, too. That, it appears, it even harder to find. Perhaps I might try making a few more calls. The mechanic that said no is a TB authorized repair shop. I figured if anyone could find parts, he could. Perhaps I should go with someone who - as you suggested - was more creative..... I DO hate trashing this thing. Maybe a new flange could be fabricated?
 
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Old 11-03-11, 06:27 AM
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I can't advise you how, but, can you attach pictures of your machine here so we can have a look and possibly advise you better? Do you have a Kaman Industrial Technologies in your area? They have a great selection of various types of bearings! I think we can walk you through a repair and all you'll need is a drill and drill bits and possibly a Dremel-like tool, maybe.
 
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Old 11-03-11, 06:52 AM
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Sure, I can take some pictures after I bring it home this weekend. And, yes, we do have a local Kaman in town. That would take care of the bearings - I'd then need some help fashioning a new flange on that side.
 
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Old 11-03-11, 09:51 AM
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You'll likely find flanged bearings (pillow block and the like) at Kaman. My idea that I have in my head will require only some drilling on your part. But, pictures will help!
 
  #20  
Old 11-03-11, 12:10 PM
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I replaced the bearings in one of mine about 20 years ago, and the only tools I needed were wrenches. I'm assuming you have the Tomahawk chipper with the box shaped housing? Sort of the size of a small file cabinet? The shaft bearings are flange mounted thru the unit housing with carriage bolts and the flanges come with the bearings. They can be ordered that way with the right size mounting holes and all you do is remove the old bolts, align the bearings and insert the new bolts thru the holes and wrench 'er up tight. Again, I mention Grainger and McMaster Carr as possible suppliers of these bearings, but if you have a decent local hardware store, or Auto parts store, they can most likely get these also.

MTD didn't take over the Tomahawk chipper shredder line when they aquired GardenWay, because they had their own design (a short squat looking unit with very long chutes). The line instead went to Murray for a while, then disappeared a few years later when Murray's troubles started.
 
  #21  
Old 11-03-11, 05:10 PM
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So, the bearings and flange are one piece? Sweet. This sounds promising. I guess I need to take it apart this weekend and take some pics.
 
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Old 11-04-11, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by doc View Post
So, the bearings and flange are one piece? Sweet. This sounds promising. I guess I need to take it apart this weekend and take some pics.
Not exactly "one piece", more like a complete assembly. I haven't looked at mine in over a year, but if I remember correctly, the ball bearings are housed in a rather light duty sheet metal flange assembly (2 pieces with the bearing sandwiched inside)?
 
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Old 11-04-11, 02:58 PM
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One way or the other, I hope something can be fabricated. I know I'm jumping the gun here, but I'm wondering how hard it will be to take it apart. Does anyone know if I have to take out the whole assembly - that is, the bearings, etc from the engine side, the insides (rods, flails, etc) along with the chute side stuff? Maybe I should wait until I get it home tomorrow and take pics.....
 
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Old 11-05-11, 08:04 AM
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Update

Picked up the chipper this morning. The owner apologized he couldn't find the parts as I paid him $20. As the mechanic is helping me load it on the trailer, he hands me a piece of paper with his name and phone number and says under his breath - "I can fix it for you on my own time, just not here".

I figure I'll call him and see what he says. Should I be leery?
 
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Old 11-05-11, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by doc View Post
Picked up the chipper this morning. The owner apologized he couldn't find the parts as I paid him $20. As the mechanic is helping me load it on the trailer, he hands me a piece of paper with his name and phone number and says under his breath - "I can fix it for you on my own time, just not here".

I figure I'll call him and see what he says. Should I be leery?

Go for it,,,sometimes the mechanic knows where to look more than the owner. It's worth a call??
 
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Old 11-05-11, 08:33 PM
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That's what I'm thinking. I want to see what he plans to do and how much he'll charge.
 
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Old 12-11-11, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bontai Joe View Post
Not exactly "one piece", more like a complete assembly. I haven't looked at mine in over a year, but if I remember correctly, the ball bearings are housed in a rather light duty sheet metal flange assembly (2 pieces with the bearing sandwiched inside)?
Quick update. I took my TB to a friend's garage - he's an engineer by trade and a great amateur mechanic (I guess that's no surprise). In any event, he helped me take out the bearings on both sides of the main shaft. Had to cut sacrifice the collar on the chute side - too rusty to loosen the screw. Also broke the pulley wheel pulling it off the shaft. Other side went much easier. I see now what the bearing assembly looks like.

Now it's time to see about getting two new bearing assemblies, new pulley wheel, new locking collar, and a new half for one of the flanges.

Interesting experience taking this thing apart.

Thanks for all the help guys! Not done yet, but its looking promising.
 

Last edited by doc; 12-11-11 at 02:50 PM. Reason: need to add something
  #28  
Old 12-13-11, 11:44 AM
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I'm really glad that you are fixing this fine machine. Definitely worth the effort.
 
  #29  
Old 04-17-12, 01:26 PM
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My positive experience replacing Chipper bearings.

Since I learned so much about these chippers from this forum, on this thread and this one: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...k-chipper.html

That I thought I should provide some feed back on how I accomplished the replacement of the front bearing on my model 11389 “super tomahawk” I picked the unit up 10 days ago from Craigs list for $175.. It has the Briggs 8 hp engine on it.

After I had been running it myself for about 4 to 5 hours the front bearing went out. I suspect that is in part why the seller let if go for only $175.

By the time I got the machine shutdown all that was left of the bearing was the inner and outer bearing races. The seals and ball bearings where no more..

Removing the stamped steel 3 bolt flange and outer race was straight forward using standard hand tools. (removing the chipper chute will make it easier to get to the bearing and gives you addition access) The inner race was held on by a 360 degree compression clamping collar. The Hex screw head on it was stripped out, and the bolt was so rusted it wouldn't budge..

Using a 4 inch angle grinder with cutting disc I cut through the bolt so I could remove the collar. The inside race was soo corroded to the shaft, it would not come off.. I ended up cutting it up with my 'dremel' and their mini metal cutting discs.. Some patience and 3 to 4 cutting discs later the race was in three pieces and off the shaft with no damage to the shaft. (I DON'T like beating on things to get them off. I'm much more inclined to trash the bearing, which is already shot and I am replacing, instead of even possibly damaging the shaft.)

Because of the limited access to the bearing through the body of the chipper, there was no way I could get a bearing puller in there. And with the dremel I had to cut spiral grooves around or across the bearing to get it off.

Of f to the bearing shop. Which in central Illinois is 'Motion Industries' I dumped the remaining parts of the bearing on the counter and my friend that works there asks what size the shaft is, 1 inch. Then he walks to the shelving unit and pulls out a Timken Brand 'RA100RRB + COL' bearing..

Which is a self centering 'AG' (Agricultural) bearing that uses an eccentric locking color and fits the mounting flanges perfectly. (Since they are standard parts). The AG bearing with its locking collar is a little taller or thicker than the OEM bearing. But that only means the end bolt does not thread in as far. This bearing is $14, the OEM bearing, which they would have had to order is $40.. Your Choice..

One item you might also want to pickup at the bearing shop is a small tube of Loctite #660. https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/6D9EC2FC4F2B5770882571870000D864/$File/660-EN.pdf

This is bearing locking compound that can be used to fill gaps in shafts up to .010 (Ten Thousands of an inch). Loctite 660 is a life saver if the bearing was previously loose and wore the shaft down.. I use it because it locks the bearings on to the shaft so securely that the only way to get the bearing off, is with a propane torch. You heat the shaft and bearing up until the 660 burns off.. Which if you goof with a new bearing it means the bearing is toast. So test fit everything before you apply the 660 and do the final assembly.

The only interesting part of the reassembly is keeping the three carriage bolts that hold the flanges on from falling out of their slots all of the time.. I've now found out, afterwards, that the service manual says to use masking tape and rubber bands to hold the bolts in place..

I just used three rare earth magnets I have in the shop. I just put one magnet by each bolt and it was enough to keep the bolts in place until I got the flanges and nuts on.

One thing my friend at the bearing shop said is that I had to keep that locking collar on straight and tight to the bearing as I was locking it. As it turns out the bolt and washers on the end of the shaft are perfect for this.. I hand tightened them, then locked the collar, which was hold straight and tight, and then I finally tighten the end bolt down.

I have since run my chipper, doing exclusively chipping, for the past 5 days, doing 6 to 8 hours of chipping each day. So far the bearing is running perfectly.

When I get ready to replace the rear bearing, probably this winter, I will be using the same Timken bearing for that rear as well.
 
  #30  
Old 08-06-12, 09:06 AM
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New bearing from Tractor Supply Co Worked

Followed your advice and got a main shaft bearing for my 8hp SuperTomahawk, model 11087. I found that Tractor supply had an Insert Bearing model SA205-16 SKU 1195167 for $14.99 similar to the Timkin part mentioned. It's for a 1 in shaft and uses an offset eccentric collar to lock onto the shaft rather than the original split collar type. The collar locks the bearing onto the shaft as you tap it with a punch to rotate it tight and then lock the set screw. I also used a tip in one of the other posts and used the shaft bolt and large washer to hold the bearing and collar snug (not too tight) in place while performing the locking procedure. Since the new bearing is slightly longer than the original, you need to hold the bearing with the shaft washer so the set screw bites up the shaft and not right at the end. I also used a washer ground to the correct diameter and thickness to fill the gap between the end of the shaft and the large washer so not to put excess pressure on the new bearing (i.e so not to pull the shaft too far thru the new bearing leaving stress on it). Tractor Supply also had the triangular bearing flangettes for sale if those are needed for your repair. I've run the chipper for 2 days now and it's good as new, I have 8 years of brush piles to clean up since that's how long the chipper has been out of service. Thanks to everyone for the tips and information.
 
  #31  
Old 06-19-14, 10:09 PM
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This is any help to you ,but I need help with a belt for an old Super Tomahawk Mod. 10633. This unit is new in use, about 30 min to 1 hour of use. Cleaned up the old 5 hp Tec engine and put fresh syn oil, fuel filter and fuel cut off. Started right up after 30+ years of sitting. My problem is I broke the belt, and replaced it with a Stens 248-027 27" belt. Worked great until I put a heavy load on it ,and now it slips an smokes. Does anyone know what size belt I need?
 

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