Briggs Magnetron ignition coil

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  #1  
Old 10-23-11, 08:15 PM
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Briggs Magnetron ignition coil

Hi All

Can anyone tell me what resistance I should read between the engine cut out connector (male spade terminal) on the magnetron and the Chassis (laminated stack) - this is on the bench with nothing externally connected to it.

I have a 15.5HP Intek in a ride on mower giving no spark when plug removed and grounded and turning motor over with starter. I have seen a spark under these conditions before. It started running for a while with some backfiring and then just stopped.

I removed the Magnetron and put an ohm meter on it from plug connector to the laminated stack (ie. ground) - about 4.8 Kohm which is within spec on Briggs documentation.

Between the engine cut out connector and the same laminated stack (ground) I read about 0.5 ohm but not sure if this is correct or the reason for it not working.

Logic tells me this is likely the problem but I did not want to buy a new one if that is a normal reading.

As far as the cut out wire itself coming from the ignition switch and seat switch that is only grounded with the switch OFF or the Seat not being sat on. It is open circuit in normal operation.

Ken
 
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  #2  
Old 10-24-11, 10:47 AM
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Briggs no longer publishes resistance readings for ignition (solid state) coils, they only tell us technicians to use an inline spark tester, part number 19368, and if no spark with this - with the coil isolated (kill circuit wire removed) - then it's time to replace the coil.
 
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Old 10-25-11, 07:54 AM
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thanks for the reply.

Given then I guess I have seen a spark before and now I don't under the same test conditions (with kill circuit removed) then I guess I have to assume the unit is dead and time to spend some money.

Thanks again - much appreciated.
 
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Old 10-25-11, 11:01 AM
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You have removed the kill wire FROM (at) the ignition coil, right? Not the other end of the wire - typically near the speed control bracket! And, you are sure you have proper coil to magnets clearance - .010"?
 
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Old 05-01-14, 05:10 PM
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I have the exact same situation but I've got a brand new magnetron from Briggs & Stratton. Actually I have two and they both show a direct short from the laminations to the kill tab with the magnetron sitting on a table with nothing else attached. Are these faulty?
 
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Old 05-01-14, 10:25 PM
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No. If you have no spark with the kill wire removed, the coil is faulty. That is the test. The kill wire tab is connected to ground, so it will show continuity.
 
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Old 07-27-14, 11:53 AM
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Briggs/Stratt coil burns out after install

Hi everyone,
I'm having a problem with a Craftsman push mower with Briggs engine. The mower quit and I determined the magnetron ignition coil was faulty, replaced it with a used one and it fired up first pull but only ran a few minutes, stuttered and died. I checked the ignition coil and it was again faulty. Replaced with a new one and the same thing happened. WHAT can make a solid state ignition this simple go bad this quick? I mean there's nothing there, a primary coil, a secondary coil, and an electronic trigger

Any ideas?????
 
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Old 07-27-14, 09:34 PM
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Power on the kill wire. That's what kills the coil. Could be a faulty ignition switch sending power to it intermittently in some position.
 
  #9  
Old 07-28-14, 08:04 PM
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There is no power, it's a push mower. No starter, no battery, just a pull rope. The kill wire runs to bracket with flywheel brake. When you pull the handle on, it releases the brake and isolates the kill wire from ground. All of that checks good.
 
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Old 07-28-14, 08:50 PM
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Okay, I figured it must be an electric start (many push mowers are nowadays) and power was getting sent to it. Are you using OEM briggs coils or aftermarket? Are you gapping them properly? Does the crankshaft have a lot of side play at the flywheel end? How are you checking the coils?
 
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Old 09-30-14, 07:49 AM
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Original question answered please

I was hoping someone could please answer the original question which was, "Can anyone tell me what resistance I should read between the engine cut out connector (male spade terminal) on the magnetron and the Chassis (laminated stack) - this is on the bench with nothing externally connected to it."

I know the troubleshooting method BS suggests. I just need to know what the resistance should be on a coil removed from an engine without any wires attached. It should be measured from the kill switch tab to the stack of plates. Specifically I need to know if a tab shows it is grounded to the plates is that coil good or bad?
 
  #12  
Old 09-30-14, 11:06 AM
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It won't tell you if it's good or bad. There SHOULD be continuity between the laminations and the kill wire tab. That's how it's built. Someone can measure theirs and it will probably be a different reading than yours. That's why you don't find that info as test data and why briggs doesn't suggest it. (already answered in post #6 about the tab showing ground).
 
  #13  
Old 10-03-14, 08:57 AM
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I usually check mine by taking the plug out and putting it in the end of the coil wire..make sure the plug is against the engine or metal..if it fires orange/reddish color..that means weak fire..it needs to fire a blue color..if it doesn't fire at all..disconnect the black ground wire from it and try that..if it fires like that..check all safety switches, key switch..hope it works for u..good luck..
 
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