I'm having a real hard starting a tecumseh HSKK50 engine. I have replaced the carb, and sparkplug, use fresh gas with no change at all.

I can get it started after a while (10 minutes - which is tiring) of pulling, adjusting the choke, but then it stalls out after about 30 seconds. This seems to warm the engine and makes starting it a little easier, but still stalls out. In years past after a half hour of this it would eventually run, but I haven't been able to get to that point this year - probably becasue I haven't tried hard enough yet.

Any idea what the problem could be? No adjustments on the new emissions carb, spark plugged is gapped correctly. Oil level is ok. Always used fuel stabilizer in the past, but drained the gas tank of old fuel and now using fresh. I've used starting fluid sprayed into the carb, and even taken the sparkplug out and sprayed in there - no help. the starting fluid even seems to flood the engine (just one quick spray). I have the carb cover off currently.

I prime it a couple of times (2 primes causes gas to drip out of carb - normal?) then pull - it pulls "easy" like it is turing over a little (as opposed to if you pulled without the spark plug connected - it would feel like a dead pull). have to pull many times, doesn't seem to like full choke - eventually pulling on half choke it starts.

Any ideas or help what steps to take next? Changing carb and plug has exhausted my small engine knowledge. This is exactly how it acted before i changed the carb,plug and gas.

Thanks

 

I'll bet you have an exhaust valve that is out of clearance; we see this all the time on the small frame 5-horse's! You'll want to remove the breather assembly (behind the carb) and check the clearance. Chances are there is none on the exhaust valve. Remove the valve and grind the stem to obtain proper clearance - Tecumseh says .004-.010" each valve; I say .006" intake, .010" exhaust. Do also check the intake valve clearance while you're there.

 

thanks for the quick reply.

So keep in mind that i'm new to small engines. first i remove the carb and intake pipe - couple of screws), then the breather assembly (a screw or two?) and that gives me access to see the intake and exhaust valves? but in order to take out the valves i will have to remove the cylinder head?

you said that you see this problem all of the time with these engines.. are the symptoms that i posted typically what you see when this is the problem? what causes the valve clearances to be out of spec?

 

I looked around the web for some valve repair instructions, and it seems to be more than my experience will handle. i think i will have to see what a pro will charge to repair and see if its worth it.

if there are any other suggestions besides the valve clearance issue I'm open to trying something else...

 

Could it be a weak or intermitent spark or a distorted flywheel key ?
Sid

 

"Something else" would mean that you want to try something in hopes that it will solve your trouble. My suggestion would be to systematically test all components to exactly determine where your problem lies - compression (leak-down would be better), ignition strength, fuel delivery. You would need a compression tester (leak-down tester would be better but most people will be hard pressed to find one to use), an inline ignition tester, and a squirt can of gasoline.

 

"something else" - yeah I just wanted to leave it open to any other comments in the hopes that it could be something simpler like "i've seen engines with your exact symptoms just needing a new fuel line" or something stupid like that.

i appreciate your help puey61, and i would bet that you nailed the problem right away. i just don't feel like buying any new tools or learning how to do valve clearance adjustment, though it doesn't seem that hard the more i look into it.

the engine doesn't have that many hours on it (though its old) what would cause the valves to get like that?