Echo Chainsaw Air Leak Problem?
#1
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Echo Chainsaw Air Leak Problem?
Hey Guys,
I have an Echo CS-5000 chainsaw
The saw started cutting out on me on full throttle in use. Gradually started getting worse. I replaced the plug, fuel filter and air filter. Ran OK for a few minutes and then started to die completely on full throttle. Opened case and checked for cracked/leaking fuel lines. Nothing visible. Blew through lines. Nothing clogged that I can tell. Now saw won't even start unless Choke is On and will die immediately when I take Choke Off.
Is this an Air Leak?
Where at?
How to check?
Should I try a Carb Kit first?
Help or suggestions for small-engine repair-challenged newbie will be greatly appreciated!
I have an Echo CS-5000 chainsaw
The saw started cutting out on me on full throttle in use. Gradually started getting worse. I replaced the plug, fuel filter and air filter. Ran OK for a few minutes and then started to die completely on full throttle. Opened case and checked for cracked/leaking fuel lines. Nothing visible. Blew through lines. Nothing clogged that I can tell. Now saw won't even start unless Choke is On and will die immediately when I take Choke Off.
Is this an Air Leak?
Where at?
How to check?
Should I try a Carb Kit first?
Help or suggestions for small-engine repair-challenged newbie will be greatly appreciated!
#2
Member
Likely a fuel air mixture anyway. It's just a matter of figuring out why you have that.
Basic stuff first with a fuel filter, fuel cap vent, cracked lines/air leaks at gaskets. The gaskets can be checked by spraying WD40 around them while its running. If the rpms change you have a leak.
After running through the basics, put a carb kit in it after a good cleaning. Most will tell you the soak is best with a compressed air blow out afterwards. The carb cleaner in an aerosol can can do a good job, but if you're dealing with a fuel varnish build up you can't be sure you get it all out, whereas with the soak, it gets to it pretty well.
If you take out any adjustment screws in the process of cleaning, counts the turns in to lightly seated before you take them out so you can get them set back to the original setting.
If haven't done it a lot, and that's not a strike against you - none of us know everything, take pictures of it before you take it apart. I still do that on things I'm not familiar with. It pays.
Basic stuff first with a fuel filter, fuel cap vent, cracked lines/air leaks at gaskets. The gaskets can be checked by spraying WD40 around them while its running. If the rpms change you have a leak.
After running through the basics, put a carb kit in it after a good cleaning. Most will tell you the soak is best with a compressed air blow out afterwards. The carb cleaner in an aerosol can can do a good job, but if you're dealing with a fuel varnish build up you can't be sure you get it all out, whereas with the soak, it gets to it pretty well.
If you take out any adjustment screws in the process of cleaning, counts the turns in to lightly seated before you take them out so you can get them set back to the original setting.
If haven't done it a lot, and that's not a strike against you - none of us know everything, take pictures of it before you take it apart. I still do that on things I'm not familiar with. It pays.