Husqvarna YTH2348 won't start
#1
03-31-12, 01:26 PM
Husqvarna YTH2348 won't start
Attempted to get my mower ready last weekend, but can't get the thing to crank. I've changed the oil, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and put new gas in, but it just won't crank. It spins and spins, but won't start up. Not really sure what to look at next so please offer me some suggestions.
#2
03-31-12, 02:20 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Hello wakebdr,
It sounds like your unit has sat during the winter months with fuel left in the carburetor and now needs a good tear-down cleaning, Posting ALL the engine model/spec/type numbers would aid in someone posting correct cleaning procedures.....
It sounds like your unit has sat during the winter months with fuel left in the carburetor and now needs a good tear-down cleaning, Posting ALL the engine model/spec/type numbers would aid in someone posting correct cleaning procedures.....
#3
03-31-12, 04:04 PM
Here's what I could find. It's a Briggs & Stratton 23HP intek v-twin. The model number on it is 445577. Would some fuel stabilizer or carb cleaner do the job without having to disassemble anything?
#4
03-31-12, 04:58 PM
Group Moderator
Fuel stabilizer would have helped (past tense) if used last fall but once the carburetor is clogged the best/only solution is to disassemble the carb. and give it a proper soaking & cleaning. It's not terribly complex and you might find it helpful to take pictures as you disassemble it so you know how to put everything back together.
#5
03-31-12, 05:44 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
wakebdr,
As Mr. Dane mentioned, It's a little late for a easy dump in tank and go repair.
You may want to go ahead and pick up a rebuild kit for this carb before getting started, The ethanol in today's fuel causes seals and o-rings to swell up and turn gummy.
Here's a two page step by step procedure with pictures that will help you along the way;
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Intek V-twin Two-Barrel Nikki Carburetor - Part 1
Good Luck
As Mr. Dane mentioned, It's a little late for a easy dump in tank and go repair.
You may want to go ahead and pick up a rebuild kit for this carb before getting started, The ethanol in today's fuel causes seals and o-rings to swell up and turn gummy.
Here's a two page step by step procedure with pictures that will help you along the way;
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Intek V-twin Two-Barrel Nikki Carburetor - Part 1
Good Luck
#6
03-31-12, 06:29 PM
In the process of disassembling everything according to the link 31YTech provided. I got to the step where I remove the fuel line from the carb. Something seems odd to me though, tell me if it is normal. There was no fuel in the line at all. Should there be fuel in that line? The fuel line runs to the little black thing in this picture. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink There was fuel in the line before the black part, but no fuel after it. What is that part and is this normal?
#7
03-31-12, 06:38 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
That is your fuel pump, Put a extension hose on there and hold it over a container then crank the engine over. Fuel should slowly pulsate out of the hose, If the float needle valve is stuck closed from being gummed up it wouldn't allow fuel to enter that hose.
If you get no fuel while cranking over make sure you have free fuel flow to the pump from the tank, If you have fuel to the pump and nothing coming out, The pump is faulty.
If you have fuel while cranking continue with the carb cleaning.
If you get no fuel while cranking over make sure you have free fuel flow to the pump from the tank, If you have fuel to the pump and nothing coming out, The pump is faulty.
If you have fuel while cranking continue with the carb cleaning.
#8
04-01-12, 10:21 AM
The fuel pump was working just fine so I continued with the teardown. Didn't find anything that looked terribly dirty, but I cleaned everything and reassembled it. After a second or two, it fired up! Hopefully it won't give me any more problems this season. One more question though, how can I make sure this doesn't happen again?
Thanks for the advice and information!
Thanks for the advice and information!
#9
04-01-12, 10:50 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Store the machine with only about a gallon of fuel with a quality brand fuel stabilizer, Make sure to run the engine 15/20 minutes to assure the stabilized fuel fills the carb.
By using only a gallon leaves plenty room for fresh fuel to be added when put back into operation.
Glad you got it going.....
By using only a gallon leaves plenty room for fresh fuel to be added when put back into operation.
Glad you got it going.....
#10
04-02-12, 06:39 AM
Group Moderator
If possible I run stabilized fuel at the end of the season and then run it completely out of fuel before putting it away for the winter. As the engine starts to sputter and die as it runs out of fuel I work the throttle and choke to keep it running as long as possible to remove as much fuel as possible from the system. It's can't varnish up if it's not in there.
#11
06-03-13, 10:44 AM
yth2348
where did ya get the rebuild kit that carb is a 2 barrel and I could only find one for $45.00 that sound about right or what ?? seems really expensive . mine has 80 hrs and same thing is going on had it for just over a year of course and wont start. lesson is don't leave the fuel in apparently . how retarded is that . shouldn't they make the carbs to withstand the chemicals in the fuel or the additives or is this just a practice to rip of the consumer .
#12
06-03-13, 08:40 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
It's the fuel, not the carb. How can you make an item with tiny passages that meter fuel withstand varnish and gum buildup? The best thing you could have done is used non ethanol fuel and stabilizer.
