Husqvarna YTH2348 Riding Mower stopped mowing, now won't even start.

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  #1  
Old 05-08-12, 06:44 PM
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Husqvarna YTH2348 Riding Mower stopped mowing, now won't even start.

Series of events today: mowed for 1.5 hours...all great. Had to back up at one point, so pushed Attachment Clutch Knob 'in', backed up, pulled Attachment Clutch Knob 'up' to engage mowing blades, and NO engagement. Engine running fine, drove tractor back to house to inspect mower. Let mower cool down (45 minutes), checked mower belt (looked good), blades (to see if anything was obstructing) all looked good. Thought I needed to get a better look underneath, and tried to start tractor to move it up on ramps......mower now will not start. Pulled back hood and saw fly wheel turn almost 360 degrees, stop, clicking all the time.

Checked Husqvarna Owner's Manual, Troubleshooting Points and did the following:
1. Replaced fuse
2. Replaced spark plugs (2). One month ago did Spring maintenance on mower (replaced oil, new oil filter, new fuel filter, new air filter, new blades, but didn't change spark plugs, so changed them now.)
3. Note; the Gauge Hourmeter comes on and stays on during whole process, so thinking battery is ok. (If I need to go and buy a tool to check battery level, might as well as buy new battery (think it's 4-5 years old, so maybe it's time. Normal start-up is on second turn of key, always a slow start.
4. Checked oil; ok.
5. Fuel level ok, but added more, fresh fuel(hoping to continue to mow.)
6. Looked at wiring and wiring diagram in manual, see no obvious problems, but not a mechanic so...who knows.
7. Other possibilities listed: faulty solenoid or starter, ignition switch, but how does one check to see if they are faulty? Remove them and look for what?
8. Checked mowing belt and it's taut, not loose as I recall when removed mowing deck a month ago. Can move belt manually, but read that idler pulley or blade mandrel could be 'frozen.' how does one find out if either are frozen?

Checked Husqvarna website, this website, Googled multiple descriptions and don't know what else to do. Husqvarna website takes at least a month for a reply. Checked other posts to see if anyone else had similar problems, and a variety of problems are listed along with solutions. don't know what to do next...can anyone help?

Thanks.....
 
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  #2  
Old 05-08-12, 06:52 PM
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Sounds like it's time for a new battery. The hour meter coming on doesn't mean anything, it doesn't pull enough amperage to be an indicator of the battery being low. The clicking and PTO loss of engagement are indicative, however, of a dead battery. The 4-5 years old comment also tells me bad battery... they usually only last around 2 years. Don't go buy the cheap battery on the shelf or you will have problems. Make sure the one you buy has 300 cold cranking amps minimum. That engine is too big for a smaller battery, and with the mower using electric PTO, you need a good one. In my experience, the U1-3 battery from advance auto parts holds up very well and usually outlasts the normal 2 years. It has 300 cold cranking amps and 375 at higher temps.
 
  #3  
Old 05-08-12, 07:20 PM
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Thank you, Cheese, will go out tomorrow and buy new battery. Will print out your reply and go to Advance Auto Parts for model listed.

And the mower blades issue? Installing a new battery will rectify the Attchment Clutch Switch problem/blades not engaging? (Sorry if that's a stupid question, but just don't know enough, and need to ask these low level questions. Am slowly learning how to maintain mower myself, and this forum is so helpful!)

Thank you again!
 
  #4  
Old 05-08-12, 09:01 PM
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Yes, if you have a button you pull up as you described, then you have an electric PTO, which means it depends on voltage to run the blades. If you have a shorted battery, the alternator cannot keep up enough current to dump into a shorted battery AND keep the PTO engaged.
 
  #5  
Old 05-10-12, 02:43 PM
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New battery installed, engine starts, and mows.....problem is that it slowly mows. Foot pedal is fully depressed, and at times, mower slows to crawl and then stops. Release foot off pedal, back on, and tractor mows slowly and stops; disengaged blades to see if that made a difference and not. Mowed for almost two hours and just stopped, thinking maybe mower is 'stressed' for some unknown reason. Let it cool for 30 minutes, some difficulty in starting (new battery and only second start-up with new battery) and now it really doesn't want to move. (Past 'Normal' cutting session was a straight 3.5 hours and no slow downs like this.) Checked manual and of three possiblities: 1.freewheel control disengaged [is], 2. motion drive belt worn and 3. air trapped in transmission, latter two are only possibilites. Guess only way to check motion belt is to remove mowing deck and visually check it? how does one purge a transmission?

Thanks for all of your help!!!
 
  #6  
Old 05-10-12, 05:26 PM
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Might let it sit overnight and see if cooling off completely enables it to drive again. If so, DO NOT MOW for hours but check some things.
First look and see how much grass is packed up on and around the tranny and clean it out.
Also there is likely a fan blade on top of the tranny pulley, make sure all the blades are still on it.

You should be able to inspect the belt somewhat without removing the deck. Might have to raise the mower, lower the deck and engage the parking brake. This should release tension on the motion belt so you can find a place for inspection and pull the belt around looking for glazing, cracks, tears etc.

I have not searched a drawing or manual on your model..but the info should be valid for some quick easy things to check. If all this checks out then we/(others ) can dig a bit deeper.
 
  #7  
Old 05-10-12, 06:15 PM
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I agree with the above post. I also think you may have alternator trouble. You'll need a voltmeter to test it.
 
  #8  
Old 05-11-12, 08:05 AM
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Thank you BOTH, and will follow your directions. Will also get a voltmeter today. What a learning experience!
 
  #9  
Old 05-17-12, 01:46 PM
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Checked the transmission, no build up of grass, surprisingly. Checked the fan blade on top, all blades still attached. Had sufficient power to back mower up onto ramps, in effort to visually inspect the belt; could only see through a small cutout in the chassis. Was able to manually pull belt around and feel the condition of belt and it seemed ok, but was not able to actually see any glazing or cracks.

Following the 'inspection', I started the mower and was able to mow a bit but the movement of mower varied between slow to stop to moderately moving which was a vast improvement to slow/stop modes. Stopped, that was 4 days ago and it has not been able to start at all since then.

i bought a voltmeter (Forney "Volt-Ohmmeter 5 function pocket size) and for days have been googling trying to figure out how to use it. Seems that everyone who writes a piece on using a voltmeter, working/testing engines with voltmenters, are so beyond a layperson's level of knowledge; I've read other people asking how to read the meter and are as lost as I am. The limited instructions are of no help; Forney website no help.

Husqvarna engine is B&S Model 445577; Type 0755 E1; code 061024YG. Searched the B&S website FAQ's section; read/printed out the "Testing the Electrical System". Printed out the "Alternator Identification Chart" (which does include my model number) but the "AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Settings Chart" is not available (goes to a page titled as such but no chart.) Different articles say "fix the setting at "12+"... but of the five 'functions' , there are fixed settings and nothing for a '12+' setting.

In reading, many refer to testing the solenoid. Checked manual for location/visual of part, but the actual solenoid unnder the hood has a label "Trobmbetta #862-1241-211-12 12V/INT Torque Mounting." Went to Trombetta website, and no search method available, 'Product' page does not include any model numbers remotely close to what is in my mower. Tried to figure out how to use voltmeter on that, and again, don't understand how or what to do.

Am ready to torch the mower. Am beyond frustration. The thought of contacting any one of the local Husqvarna 'dealers', who don't know the meaning of service, only adds to my frustration. Been there, done that, and got not where.

Any words of wisdom? Need help, cannot afford a new riding mower. Thanks....
 
  #10  
Old 05-18-12, 01:12 AM
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Okay, if you don't know how to use a volt meter, probably a 12 volt test light would be better suited to your needs. It sounds like you got one that is more complicated to use. A simple auto-ranging digital one would be easier. Learning to use a voltmeter is a whole new topic and there are so many different ones. The test light is cheaper as well. Testing the solenoid is simple, but get yourself a test light first.
 
  #11  
Old 05-18-12, 12:15 PM
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OK, got the test light. Googled 'How to Test a Circuit Using a Test Light' and have some directions, but would appreciate your directions, i.e., what to test first, how to test...basics. Just unsure of everything and think i'm going to blow something. Thank you for all of your help!
 
  #12  
Old 05-18-12, 06:38 PM
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Connect the clip to the negative battery post. Set the park brake on the mower, then put the test light probe on the terminal on the solenoid that the white wire is plugged on to. Turn the key to start and see if the light comes on. Post results and we'll go to the next step.
 
  #13  
Old 05-19-12, 09:00 AM
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OK, did that and no light came on. Concerned that I may have drained brand new battery of 1 week old, with last weekend's test drive cut, so keeping clip on negative battery post, placed probe point on positive battery point and the end of filament turned pale orange. Out of curiosity, went to old battery that had been removed last week, placed clip on negative battery post, probe point on positve battery post (same old battery)and light was bright. (So at least know light works.) Took old battery over to mower, clip on negative post of old battery, probe point on white wire solenoid stem and nothing.
 
  #14  
Old 05-19-12, 10:35 AM
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This was after you connected the old battery to the battery cables on the mower, right?

In the small red wire coming off of one of the big posts on the solenoid, there is a fuse holder. Remove and check the fuse.
 
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Old 05-19-12, 12:54 PM
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No. I'll try better in explaining my actions:
1. New battery still installed on mower, placed clip on negative battery post and tip of probe onto terminal on the solenoid that the white wire is plugged on to. No light.
2. Out of curiosity, kepping clip on negative battery post, placed tip of probe onto postive terminal of same new battery; tip of light filament glowed a pale orange.
3. Out of curiosity, went to shelved old battery, placed clip onto negative post and placed tip of probe onto positive post of same old batter; bright white light on probe (so at least i knew that it worked and what degree of brightness to look for.
4. took old battery over to dead mower, not installing it, and placed clip of old battery negative post and probe onto terminal on the solenoid that the white wire is plugged on to. No light. (Guess from your response, should have reinstalled old battery for those connections to be correct and then test. Will try that.)

OK, the small red wire coming off one of the big posts of solenoid, pulled the black connectors apart, saw a tab/?fuse in each, but different: one plain tab with a cutout in it, second one appearing to be a foldover tab (when the two tabs meet, a connection.) Confused, knowing that separate from the solenoid, few inches below the solenoid, there is a 20 amp fuse in a clip which is clipped to body of mower; changed fuse week ago as well, thought being, when in doubt, install new parts. So I know what that fuse looks like, with a head to pull on and remove from clip, but looking at the two ends of this connector, not the same. Looking at owner's manual, electrical page, see same connector pulled apart, but illustrated drawing somewhat dissimilar from my mower reality. I have needle nose pliers ready to use, to pull these tabs, if they are fuses, but unsure.
 
  #16  
Old 05-19-12, 07:24 PM
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The 20 amp fuse is the only one. Check it. Put the test light probe on each of the little test spots at the top of the fuse and see if there is power on each.

Using another battery without it being connected won't tell anything. If it's not connected to anything, no circuit can be made.
 
  #17  
Old 05-20-12, 11:13 AM
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OK, the 20 amp fuse with dual red wires (which go into a black sheathed bundle) does not directly link to the solenoid; the small red wire off of the large post of the solenoid, which leads to the previously described black connectors, does have a red wire going into the opposite end of the said black sheathed bundle, so I presume indirecrtly linked to solenoid, thus my confusion.

I placed probe point on both test spots of 20 amp fuse, with clip on negative post of battery; nothing. Is that the right combination? Tried both batteries, old and week+ old, installed, and nothing; think both batteries are dead now. Tomorrow I'll get a new battery and install it and try again.

Sorry for my ignorance, just don't know and am slowly learning.
 
  #18  
Old 05-20-12, 03:58 PM
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No problem, we don't know until we learn.

Check for power at the large posts on the solenoid. One should have power, the other should not. If neither do, you have battery connection issues.
 
  #19  
Old 05-24-12, 01:24 PM
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Sorry for the delay. Had to borrow a mower to cut grass.

OK, new battery installed, and yes, one post (rear) of solenoid has power; front post does not.
 
  #20  
Old 05-24-12, 06:13 PM
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Okay, then there is a break in the connection of the small red wire that goes to the terminal on the solenoid that does have power. Possibly a bad connection in the black plug.
 
  #21  
Old 05-25-12, 08:41 AM
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So, what do I need to do now? What is the black plug, is it on the solenoid? 'Bad connection'....can i see this or what test do I need to perform to see if good or bad connection?

Sorry for my ignorance, but I don't know what to do with this information.....
 
  #22  
Old 05-25-12, 10:39 AM
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You said the wire going to the fuse went to a black connector. If it's a connector, it may not be making connection. You have apparently lost connection between the fuse and the positive terminal on the solenoid. I don't know what you'll have to do to fix it because I don't know what the failure is.
 
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