Wheel Horse Lawn Tractor- hard to start??
#1
05-29-12, 01:17 PM
Wheel Horse Lawn Tractor- hard to start??
I own a Wheel Horse Lawn tractor.
Over the last few months it has been very difficult to start.
When I turn the key it sometimes begins to start but usually it just clicks.
If I play with the key turning it off and on and hit the side of the starter with pliers, it will eventually start.
The strange thing is, I can cut the grass which takes about 2 hrs and then park it. Come back in an hour and it starts up without an issue.
It is only is hard to start when I let it sit in the shed for a day or so..
Is this a starter issue?
Over the last few months it has been very difficult to start.
When I turn the key it sometimes begins to start but usually it just clicks.
If I play with the key turning it off and on and hit the side of the starter with pliers, it will eventually start.
The strange thing is, I can cut the grass which takes about 2 hrs and then park it. Come back in an hour and it starts up without an issue.
It is only is hard to start when I let it sit in the shed for a day or so..
Is this a starter issue?
#2
05-29-12, 01:25 PM
Super Moderator
I'd think wiring connection or solenoid (if it's mounted in conjunction with the starter like a GM starter).
Remove, clean and re-install connections on the solenoid and starter and any associated ground wires...I'd guess you'll be fine.
If that doesn't help...solenoid..if its the type I mentioned above.
Remove, clean and re-install connections on the solenoid and starter and any associated ground wires...I'd guess you'll be fine.
If that doesn't help...solenoid..if its the type I mentioned above.
#3
05-29-12, 04:24 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
There are a lot of toro wheel horse mowers with a lot of different engines, so it's hard to know what type of starting system you have. Wheel horses came with anything from generator-starters to remote solenoid starters and starter mounted solenoids. More info needed.
#5
05-30-12, 10:00 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Do you have a test light or voltmeter? If so, does the starter have power when the solenoid clicks?
#8
05-31-12, 10:13 AM
It sounds more like a battery issue or a starter brush issue.
Have you charged the battery first or tried to jump it off another battery. I'd make sure the battery is taken care of before changing the starter.
If you still have the problem after the battery is in good shape, it and the starter works after bumping it, think in terms of starter brushes not seating. Some of those you can take apart and clean or loosen up the brush slides to get it operational again.
Have you charged the battery first or tried to jump it off another battery. I'd make sure the battery is taken care of before changing the starter.
If you still have the problem after the battery is in good shape, it and the starter works after bumping it, think in terms of starter brushes not seating. Some of those you can take apart and clean or loosen up the brush slides to get it operational again.
#9
05-31-12, 11:15 AM
The battery is a few weeks old...
I think this is what I may need?
Stens 435-303 Electric Starter / Briggs 497595
I think this is what I may need?
Stens 435-303 Electric Starter / Briggs 497595
#10
05-31-12, 05:54 PM
Well, for $37 you can't mess with fixing what you have too much. If that's the one, I'd change it. If your battery is new, and the cable connections are good and clean, it comes down to the starter.
Before you change it out, though, jump directly onto the power post of the starter you have and see if it kicks in and starts. That bypasses the solenoid, connections, cables, etc. If it still takes the hammer to start it, swap the starter to a new one and sell the old one to someone in Iowa, we use a hammer on everything to get it to work.
Before you change it out, though, jump directly onto the power post of the starter you have and see if it kicks in and starts. That bypasses the solenoid, connections, cables, etc. If it still takes the hammer to start it, swap the starter to a new one and sell the old one to someone in Iowa, we use a hammer on everything to get it to work.
#11
05-31-12, 06:46 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
You might need a new starter, but without testing anything, you're guessing. Those starters aren't genuine briggs, for what it's worth. You'd be better off buying a working used one off ebay or from your local mower shop.
#12
06-07-12, 11:08 AM
sorry,,i have been tied up..
i entered the numbesr off the engine and found the $37 starter..
strange happenings.. i went out a few days ago and it started ok,,
i skipped a day and tried yesterday and it was worse than ever,,
used the hammer but still was tough,,,
tried and tried to the point where it started to smoke,,,i think it may have been a wire.
i let it sit for a few minutes,,and then was able to start it and get the lawn cut,,
are you saying the $37 starter will not work ?
can you describe what you mean by ,,
jump directly onto the power post of the starter you have and see if it kicks in and starts...
i entered the numbesr off the engine and found the $37 starter..
strange happenings.. i went out a few days ago and it started ok,,
i skipped a day and tried yesterday and it was worse than ever,,
used the hammer but still was tough,,,
tried and tried to the point where it started to smoke,,,i think it may have been a wire.
i let it sit for a few minutes,,and then was able to start it and get the lawn cut,,
are you saying the $37 starter will not work ?
can you describe what you mean by ,,
jump directly onto the power post of the starter you have and see if it kicks in and starts...
#13
06-07-12, 05:34 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
If you're hitting the starter with a hammer, it is probably toast. You can't do that... it has ceramic magnets inside that break when hit.
The $37 starter might work, might not. I've seen them break the very first use, and some last a little longer. I don't think I ever saw one last very long. You would be better off buying some test equipment so we can find out what is wrong rather than throwing money at it until it fixes it.
The $37 starter might work, might not. I've seen them break the very first use, and some last a little longer. I don't think I ever saw one last very long. You would be better off buying some test equipment so we can find out what is wrong rather than throwing money at it until it fixes it.
#14
06-07-12, 08:24 PM
I just fixed a friend's toro that was cranking real slow. It was the ground connection at the chassis. Toro used a bolt tapped into the chassis , no nut on it. It had corroded and loosened and cable had overheated. I replaced cable and used a nut on the bolt to keep it tight even if it corrodes in the chassis. It cranks great now.
#18
06-09-12, 07:35 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Perform the tests that will tell us what is wrong. Otherwise we are guessing. Once you have one, or a voltmeter (test light preferred), then we'll tell you how to check for power and where, and that will lead us to the culprit.
#19
06-11-12, 10:46 AM
Ok,
My neighbor down the road had a test light.
Of course, when he came up to check the tractor started..
He does know engines.
He checked the solenoid and starter and he said they look good.
He thinks the problem may be in 1 of 2 places:
Ignition key switch or a switch that connects to the parking brake.
He said he cannot be sure until it fails again.
I didn’t know the brake had a switch?
My neighbor down the road had a test light.
Of course, when he came up to check the tractor started..
He does know engines.
He checked the solenoid and starter and he said they look good.
He thinks the problem may be in 1 of 2 places:
Ignition key switch or a switch that connects to the parking brake.
He said he cannot be sure until it fails again.
I didn’t know the brake had a switch?
#20
06-11-12, 01:52 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Yep, the clutch/brake pedal has a switch that must be activated by you pressing the pedal before you crank it. That's a possibility. If he has a test light and knows how to check the system, he should be able to narrow it down to the problem.
#21
06-11-12, 05:19 PM
ok
Unfortunately, he is not around a lot.
Does it need to fail in order to verify which switch is bad?
any way to test without the light?
Today, I started it, but with difficulty.
The next time I am going to make a video and post it on you tube.
Unfortunately, he is not around a lot.
Does it need to fail in order to verify which switch is bad?
any way to test without the light?
Today, I started it, but with difficulty.
The next time I am going to make a video and post it on you tube.
#22
06-15-12, 05:04 PM
I posted 3 videos at Whee Horse Tractor - YouTube
1st video shows an attempt to start the engines after the tractor was sitting overnight.
2nd video is a few minutes after the 1st video ended and it starts.
3rd video is after letting the tractor sit for a few minutes after it was just started in the 2nd video
Stange thing is I used it today after getting it started. let it sit for a few hrs and was able to strart it after 2 tries
1st video shows an attempt to start the engines after the tractor was sitting overnight.
2nd video is a few minutes after the 1st video ended and it starts.
3rd video is after letting the tractor sit for a few minutes after it was just started in the 2nd video
Stange thing is I used it today after getting it started. let it sit for a few hrs and was able to strart it after 2 tries
#23
06-15-12, 07:43 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
You need to have the valves adjusted. Don't keep trying to start it like that or you'll burn up the starter and solenoid. Your valves should be adjusted periodically... by the sound of yours, they never have been, or it has been a really long time.
#25
06-17-12, 04:24 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
No, it's not a switch. The starter, switches, and wiring are all working. The engine can't turn past the compression stroke. The starter isn't strong enough to... so they put a compression release on the camshaft. If the valves are too loose, it renders the compression release inoperable. A valve adjustment isn't normally done during a routine service, although the shop should have noticed it before it got to this point, and told you about it, giving you the option to have it done. If you don't have a test light, I doubt you have feeler gauges. You'll need them, you'll have to take the valve cover off, set the engine to just after top dead center on the compression stroke, and then use a torx bit, 10 or 14mm wrench, and feeler gauges to set the valves. You might want to let your mechanic friend do it, or take to the shop.
