Bad Oil Leak ...Where Is It Coming From?

Hello spirittoo,

I'll try to answer in order and hopefully not skip anything.....

The coil mount screws torque to 35 in. lb., Flywheel bolt is 49 ft. lb.
Yes..... This is where you want to do this;

This is the crank or crankshaft I'm speaking of;



The plastic screen in the pic next to the flywheel just pops over the pins/nubs sticking up on the flywheel fins, Align the slots with the pins/nubs and snap it on.

The last pic looks like the parking brake safety switch, It appears it needs to be unplugged rotated 1/2 turn then inserted into the hole just below it from the other side of the frame. Then the wire re-connected.

Once you get the flywheel and head back on (with spark plug in place) stuff rags in the intake and exhaust ports then have at it at the car wash, There's nothing a good wash will hurt.

Hope that covered this round.....

Good Luck

 

Well sir ... my friend that helped me pull the engine out offered to help me reassemble the engine and put it back in the tractor. I'm going to copy pictures of my engine or close to it from the manual I posted earlier in the hopes it will help me to reassemble the engine.

I cleaned the parts as best I could so it should be a bit better putting the engine back together ... no large amounts of caked oil.

Question ... could their be any thing other than the crank seal that could cause a leak like that? The old seal didn't look like it could leak, but since this is my first time doing this I wouldn't know.

I will try to remember to take picture during each step to help other with this problem. It sure would have been nice to have an explosive diagram of my particular engine to show me how to reassemble it.

I can't find any torque specs for the cylinder head ... I'm a bit tired and may have missed it. What parts must be torque and what are the pounds? I took off the starter to clean it ... does it have to be torqued too?

I just checked out the torque wrench I have and it will not work. It starts at 120 lbs. Don't understand why it's like that, but I'm going to have to get another one before Wednesday. Hope I can find the receipt for it.

 

Hello spirittoo,

Head bolt torque and sequence is in section 11 page 11 or 11.11 in the manual, The rocker cover torque and sequence is in section 11 page 14 or 11.14....The starter doesn't really need to be torqued just tightened to the point the bolts won't loosen.


Good Luck

 

I didn't see the part in the manual about the rocker arms and putting back where they were originally. I'm not sure which is which ... How big of a problem is that going to cause??

I also saw in the manual that you have to replace the head bolts ... why is that?

 

OK spirittoo, I think it's been long enough now I can stop the "hello" crap.....

Kohler at one time had head gasket failures and all head gasket "kits" came/still come with new head bolts and studs-nuts depending on application, In your case where you only purchased a head gasket replacing the head bolts is not necessary.

Just clean the bolt threads and put a LITE film of oil on them with your finger before installing and torque to spec.

I'll have to get back with you on the rockers later, Lunch break is over......

 

Don't worry about the rocker arms, they are the same and it won't hurt if they get mixed up.

 

spirittoo,


As Mr Cheese stated they are the same.

BUT, Since your engine is not a new rebuild as outlined in section 11 "Reassembly" in the manual, DO NOT follow step 1 on page 11.11;

Install Cylinder Head
1. Rotate the crankshaft to TDC of the compression
stoke.....

If you do this the rocker arms will push the valves open when torquing and the valve heads could hit the top of the piston resulting in bent push-rods.

Your lifters have been ran and are still pumped up, New lifters are not pumped up so bent push-rods are less likely. Rotate the crankshaft so the piston is down the cylinder bore then torque the rockers, By time you get the engine back in the tractor the lifters will have bled down so they'll be no interference between the valves and piston on re-start.....

 

Well sir ... we had the flywheel on ...then we discovered the spark plug wire was torqued down with the flywheel of course it was damaged it is attached to the coil and can't be removed right? ... can I splice it with a new plug wire?... we took the flywheel back off then try to put it back and as we were doing it one of the magnets broke. I don't see anything online about where I can get a new magnet. Today was a nightmare. We really got nothing done and was working all day. Is there some kind of diagram that show me how to put everything back together correctly. I've got pieces I'm not sure where they go ... I could just scream

 

If the magnet is not in lots of pieces, you can JBweld it back in place. I experimented with this after finding loose magnets on several flywheels, especially kohlers. I've seen ALL the magnets stuck to the stator instead of the flywheel. The orientation of the poles on the magnet is important. They alternate, so pay attention that it is installed in reverse of the two on either side of it.

If the magnet is not salvageable, the flywheel needs to be replaced (expensive).

The coil wire shouldn't be spliced, however, I have seen some successful repairs. Usually the ones that work have the splice made inside a piece of fuel line to insulate it.

 

I can't just buy the one magnet? I have to buy a whole new flywheel? Please explain to me why the whole flywheel has to be replaced??? Are you saying the magnets are not suppose to move at all there are a couple of magnets that are moving ... What is a jbweld? I have to take the flywheel to a welder???

 

spirittoo,


By the looks of that magnet and others being loose you need to replace the flywheel with a new one, You can't buy the magnets separately. For the amount of work involved in you removing this engine there's no way I'd try jb weld even if possible.

You have the service manual, Section 11 covers reassembly of the engine starting with a bare block. It should show you how and where everything goes back together......

 

Google JBweld. It's about the same thing as what the magnets are installed with from the factory.

The magnet is too crunched up anyway. No, the magnets aren't supposed to move and are not for sale without the flywheel.

 

Well sir ... I'm seeing used flywheels on ebay. Can you use a kohler flywheel from another model kohler ... that is a 14 or 15 hp? Does it have to have the same number of magnets as mine did?

 

All I can say is look up the part number for the flywheel you have and the number for the one you want to use and see if they are the same.

 

You must stay with the correct part number for your model-spec engine.....

 

I see a flywheel on ebay with the same part number as mine, but it is out of a JD ... will that work?

 

Doesn't matter what it's out of.

 

I was wondering what the price of a new kohler 12-300-02 D flywheel and I can't find one anywhere. Am I missing something?

 

spirittoo,

What your missing is the correct part number, That's likely why you can't find one.

This is the correct part number;Genuine Kohler Part: 12 025 28-S - FLYWHEEL, When doing a Kohler part number search always use spaces and no dashes.... 12 025 28-S is correct.

Good Luck

 

Wow ... almost $200 bucks for a new flywheel at the one place ... I got an email from a guy I wanted to see had a used one for $35 ... unfortunately he didn't, but said he could get a new one for $115 to the door.

Here are some of the pictures I took when we where getting it back together before we found out the flywheel was shot.:NO NO NO: I guess it was a blessing that we had to take it back apart. I was able to remove three of the six magnets in that flywheel.

Anyone have any idea what could have cause those magnets to come loose? As you can see in the last picture we were just about to put it back in the tractor.

In order to find the top dead center we put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turned the flywheel until the screwdriver just started to go down, then we turned the flywheel back a little to get TDC.

After we tighten the rocker arms we waited a bit to let it self adjust, then tighten it some more, then waited ... and continued to do that until we got it torqued to I believe 36 lbs ... don't have the torque specs in front of me ... We checked them out by turning the flywheel to make sure the arms when up and down. After that we put the seal on the value cover and put it back on.

Now I am waiting for the flywheel to arrive. I got it off of ebay for $65 to the door. I was lucky to get it, because it was the only one that matched mine. It should be here by Wednesday. I hope to put it back together Thursday. I found some explosive diagrams at the Kohler parts web site, that should help me put back the linkages and what nots back correctly.

I was thinking of taking the engine to the car wash and trying to clean it more, but I don't know if I can get it any cleaner than what I already have it. Do you think it would help?

 

The magnets come loose over time. The glue that holds them just gives up. I think rust gets behind them at the edges and when the rust rises, it pushes the magnet up just enough to pop it off. Anyway, it happens. Check the new used one before installing.

 

Well sir ... I got the engine put back together and back in the tractor. Now I am having a problem with the carburetor I think. When I first started to run it ... the RPM were way too high ... the engine was roaring. I found the lever governor was being restricted by the baffle cover ... I corrected that. When I started to cut the grass, the engine was not running smoothly ... and there wasn't enough power to run the blades. It stalled on me a couple of times.

What can I do to adjust it so it will run smoothly again??

I ended up having to cut the grass with a push mower ... of course I couldn't cut it all ... it take 4 hours to cut with the rider ... I was beat after that, but it bought me some more time to get the rider together ...

Could someone please tell me how to adjust things so it will be able to cut the grass again???

 

spirittoo,


Look in your manual at page 5.14, It explains how to adjust the governor which you shouldn't have needed to touch and proper cable adjustments to get the RPM correct.....

 

I didn't do anything to the governor other that freed the governor lever that was being obstructed ... I guess it threw the governor out of wack by doing that? Well sir I'm going to work on it tomorrow. I will post what happen. Thanks.

 

That lever is the part you don't want to touch, but that's okay, reset it according to the manual.

 

Well sir ... I couldn't see anyway to adjust my governor ... it is different in the picture, and it stated to adjust if the lever was loosen, and I did not.

I ask the local cub cadet repair guy and he said it sounds like it is not getting gas as it should. I replace the fuel filter and it ran a bit better. I tried adjusting the carb, but that didn't work it ran worst when I did that so I put it back the way it was.

There could be a block somewhere ... there was some cracks on the gas line leading to the filter ... I used a little bonding that is resistant to gas and cover it with tape.

I tried to look at the line that lead from the filter to the pump but I couldn't get it off from the pump. I'm going to check the carb bowl and see if there is a problem there, but it looks like something going on with the engine not getting the fuel to run smoothly.

Also I am wondering if I am missing something. In the first picture there is a clamp, but I don't know what it is suppose to hold. The second picture gives you a better look at it ... in the third picture the L shape clamp ... I don't remember where that goes, but based on the color it looks like it belongs in the same area in the first two pictures.

Any idea where they go? I'm going to see if I can pull that line going into the fuel pump to see if it is blocked and take a look at the carb.

I will post again when I am done.

 

spirittoo,

The clamp in the first pic is to hold a cable if the engine was used in a different application, In your case..... It's just hang'n around for the ride.

The "L" clamp is a lift bracket for engine installation/removal, They normally mount on one of the valve cover screws.....

 

Well sir ... I checked the line to the fuel pump from the filter and it was clear ... I took off the carburetor and remove the bowl ... sprayed carb cleaner into the jet and put it back together ... now it will only run for a few seconds then stall ... I guess the clamps have nothing to do with the problem ... something is restricting the fuel but I don't know what so far ... any clues? Since the problem got worst when I removed the carburetor it must have something to do with that correct me if I am wrong ... and I have been so wrong in the past as far as this project goes.

 

I tried starting the mower this morning but no luck ... it acts like it is flooding. I smell gas after cranking the engine, I can come back in a few minutes and it will try to start, then nothing ... smell of gas again. Something is definitely up with the carburetor ... I tried to adjust the screw again, but nothing.

 

Well I took the carburetor apart again and washed the bowl ring with soap and water in case the carb cleaner had an affect on it.

I didn't see any other o rings other than the one for the bowl. I tried to check for blockage in the jet, but I didn't have anything small enough to fix. I didn't find any blockage anywhere with the carburetor, yet ... when I crank the engine, it may turn over for a second, then shut down. I try cranking it again, it won't turn over and I smell gas.

There are so few parts with this carburetor I just can't see it being bad with all I did for it. Is a rebuild in order?

What I don't understand is when I started this project the only problem was a oil leak ... the engine ran fine with the leak ... fix the leak ... now I'm having a fuel problem ... how did this happen????

 

Sounds like the float/needle might be stuck open.

 

spirittoo,


Any time a carb is removed there's a chance that trash can enter the fuel system, Or trash inside the carb bowl can be transferred into jets-ports and or passages.

Sounds like you need to get a carb kit and rebuild it, Follow this how to that identifies all the different ports-passages and main jet. The use of a bristle from a hand wire brush works well for cleaning smaller main jets, Use a Q-tip soaked with carb & choke spray cleaner to clean the float needle valve seat port.

Spray the carb cleaner with the little straw through ALL the mentioned ports and passages, DO NOT perform step #10 and remove the welch plug.... Again..... DO NOT remove the welch plug, In most cases it's not necessary.

Note #4, The anti-afterfire solenoid..... Make sure your getting battery power to the solenoid with the key in run position, The rebuild kit will come with a new rubber tip for this solenoid so install it as well.

Here's the "How To"; Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Walbro LMK Carburetor used on Kohler Command and Courage Single Cylinder Engines

If you have any issues while doing this, Remember..... You have the service manual with the same type info.....

 

I ordered a rebuild kit it should be here is a few days. I will let you know the results ... hopefully this will get the engine to properly ... thanks for posting.

 

Thanks for the !!!

 

Ok I got the kit today, I put up picture of the carb and the parts, but I don't think all those rings are needed. I only see the seal for the bowl as being needed correct me if I am wrong.:NO NO NO:

I don't understand the instruction either or the diagrams given. I didn't see anything in the breakdown of the carb of a valve seat or retainer with ID marks. ... Plus I don't know which number relates to my carb.

Can you tell me what parts I am going to need. Is it just the valve for the float, the ring for the bowl and the gaskets is all I need? What's this about a retaining ring???

 

spirittoo,


What's the part number on the rebuild kit you ordered ?

Also.... Since your so handy with a camera, How about a pic of the bottom of the carb showing the float needle valve seat port, Also one of the old needle valve you took out ?

I mentioned most of these kits fit different carbs so not all parts will be needed, But I need to see the above to tell you what to use and what to discard.....

 

Hope I took the right shot and it is clear enough... The number on the left is the float and the right the kit.

 

Hope the picture is clear enough for you ...

 

Use the needle shown in the last picture, the new float, and the new gaskets.

 

spirittoo,


Discard the parts in red box and install the new plunger seal on the tip of the solenoid, Use the new float assembly with the new needle valve in the separate bag (yellow) and you should be good to go.....

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