Need help with a Honda EB5000x generator
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Need help with a Honda EB5000x generator
Hi guys.
My EB5000x make 110 volts no problem, but when a load is applied the governor (I believe) is not bringing the rpms back to where they should be (guessing 3600-3700 rpms??). I readjusted the governor per the Honda manual, but there's no change - the rpms just drop and stay there. The governor shaft only rotates about 1/4" in either direction - is that about right? Changing the governor looks like a big job.
Any suggestions? Thanks! Vince
My EB5000x make 110 volts no problem, but when a load is applied the governor (I believe) is not bringing the rpms back to where they should be (guessing 3600-3700 rpms??). I readjusted the governor per the Honda manual, but there's no change - the rpms just drop and stay there. The governor shaft only rotates about 1/4" in either direction - is that about right? Changing the governor looks like a big job.
Any suggestions? Thanks! Vince
#2
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When you put a load on the engine do you see the governor moving to try and open the throttle?
#4
If it's a generator you plan on keeping it would be a worthwhile investment to pick up a service manual for it. I just ordered a couple for my Honda generators.
EB3500X/5000XK0-K1 Generator Shop Manual - Helm Incorporated
EB3500X/5000XK0-K1 Generator Shop Manual - Helm Incorporated
#5
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If you are sure you did the adjustment properly I would disconnect linkage at the governor arm. Then hold the linkage you just disconnected and move it back and forth to see if it moves freely and does not bind. If there is not binding and you can easily move it and get the throttle butterfly on the carb to move I would check the governor.
Keep your hand on the kill switch or have a helper start the generator for you while watching the governor arm. When the engine starts and rev's up does the arm move? You must be ready on the kill switch. You don't want the engine to run wild and go to excessive rpm's but you do want to see if the governor arm is reacting to the change in engine rpm's.
Keep your hand on the kill switch or have a helper start the generator for you while watching the governor arm. When the engine starts and rev's up does the arm move? You must be ready on the kill switch. You don't want the engine to run wild and go to excessive rpm's but you do want to see if the governor arm is reacting to the change in engine rpm's.
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OK, did a couple of things. 1st, the carb linkage is nice and free. The governor arm does move on its own, but real little during normal operation. Only when the rpms drop alot will the governor move alot. So, I took the thing apart to check the governor, and it looks good and operates smooth, so I put it back togther (big job that was). The generator does the same thing - rpms drop as load is increased and the rpms dont come back to where their suppose to - I can hear it. I have a tach coming to confirm.
I also did a compression test, and I came up with 90psi after several good pulls. Honda manual states spec is 85-121 psi. Could this be an issue - weak motor??? I need to check the valves and make sure their not too tight now that I think about it.
I also did a compression test, and I came up with 90psi after several good pulls. Honda manual states spec is 85-121 psi. Could this be an issue - weak motor??? I need to check the valves and make sure their not too tight now that I think about it.
#8
What kind of load are you applying? What is the RPM that the engine drops to? Does the voltage still read 110? Get a regular analog clock that plugs in with a second hand. Run it for one minute, comparing the second hand to your watch. If the second hand makes one minute in less than a minute, the RPM is too high. If it makes a minute in more than a minute, then it's too slow. This is an effective way to estimate the hertz produced by the generator.
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I am hooking up a shop vac and/or space heater. I have a VOM that also measures hz, and I set the max rpms to give 60hz. When I apply a load, I can hear the rpms dip and the hz also drops to the low 50's. I have a tachometer coming tomorrow, but I already know the rpms are dropping. The no-load voltage is apprx 125v, but will drop to ~122 when the vacuum is hooked-up so I know the voltage reg is working.
I just think the gov is not sensitive enough. Checked the valves, the intake was slightly (not much) too tight, and the exhaust slightly loose. Not enough difference here to make the motor unresponsive (unless the intake valve was open during operation). The 90lbs of compression has me concerned, but its still within spec.
I just think the gov is not sensitive enough. Checked the valves, the intake was slightly (not much) too tight, and the exhaust slightly loose. Not enough difference here to make the motor unresponsive (unless the intake valve was open during operation). The 90lbs of compression has me concerned, but its still within spec.
#11
I think that unit has brushes... Have you replaced them?
Look like it from the schematic.
http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/...s/31ZC2602.pdf
Look like it from the schematic.
http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/...s/31ZC2602.pdf
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I think that unit has brushes... Have you replaced them?
Look like it from the schematic.
http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/...s/31ZC2602.pdf
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...#ixzz2IC7Ya5GD
Brushes looked good, but even if they were worn would that affect rpms???
Look like it from the schematic.
http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/...s/31ZC2602.pdf
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...#ixzz2IC7Ya5GD
Brushes looked good, but even if they were worn would that affect rpms???
#14
Have you adjusted the static tension on the governor spring? I don't know if the governor has different holes for the spring to attach or not, but if it does, try one of the holes farther out toward the end of the arm.
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Have you adjusted the static tension on the governor spring? I don't know if the governor has different holes for the spring to attach or not, but if it does, try one of the holes farther out toward the end of the arm.
There are 2 holes in the gov arm and I tried the other hole, but it doesnt really change the way the engine runs.
There are 2 holes in the gov arm and I tried the other hole, but it doesnt really change the way the engine runs.
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Got my Tiny Tach hooked up, and rpms no load is 3750 per spec, as I add a load to it, it drops apprx 200 rpms per load (shop vac drops it 200 rpms, space heater another 200 rpms) down to 3400+/-. Each load is about 1500 watts +/-. Is this OK? This 5000 watt generator couldnt run my 9.0a sump pump all by it self as it got drop down!!!
What's left before I take it to the dealer and get raped?
What's left before I take it to the dealer and get raped?
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I would say the AVR......... But I am not a pro in that area... I dont have or never had the high end voltage regulated gens. Parts too expensive....
You think that the AVR is somehow tied into the RPM's the engine turns??
You think that the AVR is somehow tied into the RPM's the engine turns??
#19
You think that the AVR is somehow tied into the RPM's the engine turns??
#20
If the engine has a lot of hours on it, I have seen governor problems in some hondas from wear. The governor sits on a shaft and wears downward and slowly backs away from the governor arm as the wear increases. Only came across this once or twice. Shimming it back up with thrust washers fixed it.
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If the engine has a lot of hours on it, I have seen governor problems in some hondas from wear. The governor sits on a shaft and wears downward and slowly backs away from the governor arm as the wear increases. Only came across this once or twice. Shimming it back up with thrust washers fixed it.
Cheese, I didnt notice any obvious wear when I inspected it. But, wouldnt readjusting the governor per shop manual account for the type of wear your mentioning?
Cheese, I didnt notice any obvious wear when I inspected it. But, wouldnt readjusting the governor per shop manual account for the type of wear your mentioning?