Dynamark 523 Trac Drive snowblower PROBLEM

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  #1  
Old 01-12-13, 07:29 AM
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Dynamark 523 Trac Drive snowblower PROBLEM

OK I bought a nice (i though it was) Dynamarc trac drive 523 (5 horse power 23 scoop) from a family members friend a few days back.Its model 2351-00. Im told it may be made by murray or nemo. I took this person at there word LIKE A FOOL and was told it needed an 11.00 belt. Im in western NY, where the firemen were murdered 2 weeks ago while going to a fire call. We get more snow then you would believe. Me being me decided to not make arrangements with a plowing contractor because I have this awesome machine. (plowing is about 300-400 for 20 trips then 10-20 per extra trip). So I had my bro in loaw come by to help me with the belt. We tore it apart and found all belts are fine. The problem is the auger shaft bearing is just gone. ate up and gone. I can get another bearing but when we looked at the shaft its unlike one my bro in law has ever seen. Either this is just a unique design or the bad bearing chewed the hell out of it. One idea I have is to have a buddy fill this low spot with weld and then grind it down to be flush with the end. I tried to document it using paintbrush so bare with me.


The snowblower



The inside of blower behind the flywheel. See the bad beaing?


[ATTACH=CONFIG]7797[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH=CONFIG]7797[/ATTACH]


Then my art work showing the problem


[ATTACH=CONFIG]7798[/ATTACH]




Do you have any ideas?
heres an updated pic of the shaft itself

[ATTACH=CONFIG]7800[/ATTACH]

thank you


alby
 
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Last edited by bigalby01; 01-12-13 at 08:28 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-12-13, 07:44 AM
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Yes the shaft has been damaged by the bad bearing. You would need to replace the shaft or have it filled in & machined back to original size.
 
  #3  
Old 01-12-13, 08:00 AM
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I'd try building it up oversize w/ JB Weld, then file and emery back to size to fit the brg. It will easier to remove the shaft to do this.
Mike
 
  #4  
Old 01-12-13, 08:29 AM
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good ideas. I cam up with using my buddys welder and filling it up, then grinding it down flush to the 7/8" end of the shaft. Then cutting a new key hole in it


thanks for the info guys

allen
 
  #5  
Old 01-12-13, 08:50 AM
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Are you planning to remove the shaft?
If not and you try to weld it you could cause more damage by overheating the bearings or other components inside of the machine.

If you are going to remove the shaft it may not cost as much as you think to have a machine shop repair it for you.
 
  #6  
Old 01-12-13, 11:57 AM
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The shaft assembly is still available old part number 85458 new part number 300974E701MA @ $160.00

Bearing assembly part number 761508MA
 
  #7  
Old 01-12-13, 12:53 PM
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Im amazed at the responses. You guys have such a wealth of knowledge. Now that I have the part # I may go that way. In the meantime I think im going to remove the shaft itself and have a friend try to weld it up then grind it flush. If it fails then im looking at buying a new part. I want to make sure its right and will last. Im pretty sure this will end up staying at my parents house and using it there. It will save me from loading mine up and driving it over.


thank you again everyone for your replies and ideas


al
 
  #8  
Old 01-13-13, 08:11 PM
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what's interesting about that bearing is that the OEM bearing inner race may be have a keyway. That means that you should not get the situation where the bearing seizes and the shaft turns inside the inner race and wears away like yours did. There are bearings that fit but are not keyed and when seized will damage the shaft.

https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/vie...?i=2323&p=4601
https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/vie...?i=2323&p=4570
 
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