simplicity legacy 27 hp


Old 04-17-13, 10:35 AM
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Location: southeast pennsylvania
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simplicity legacy 27 hp

I have a 2006 Simplicity Legacy 27HP tractor with a Kawasaki engine. Just this year I was able to find the oil drain valve, which is located on the left side (as you're sitting) under the engine. It's a shutoff valve which uses a 10MM socket to turn it. I was able to put a small socket on it to change the oil but now after I closed it back up the valve leaked. I decided to change the valve but what a job that has turned out to be! I ended up cutting the valve end (where the rubber hose connects) so I could get the darn thing out. There isn't much room. My question is what is that heavy steel plate under the engine? Does that hold up anything or can I take it down to replace the valve without worrying about messing up something else? Also, are the threads on that valve that go into the engine block metric thread or standard thread? I don't want to replace the valve with the same type because it is very hard to to open or close so I am planning to rig up something else so it will be much easier next year. Thanks.

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Old 04-26-13, 07:37 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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i also have a simplicity legacy XL with the 27 hp kawasaki engine and changed the oil for first time and it has been leaking since. not through the tube but out the brass appearing valve. I loosened and re tightened it, but still leaks. makes no sense to me why a cut on/cut off valve would leak through the body of valve??????? sorry no answers, just more questions
Old 04-26-13, 07:45 PM
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I haven't run into this yet. Sounds like valve replacement is the only option, and I don't know what kind of thread they are... I never had to replace one on a Kawi. I would expect it to be standard national pipe threads, but being a foreign made engine, you never know. Everything else on the engine is metric.
Old 04-27-13, 05:20 AM
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You can replace the valve with a plug. It's messy if the oil pours down on the frame or mounting plate but you can extend the drain with pipe nipples and put a plug at the end but like Cheese mentioned make sure you check the threads. If you have the room & a tap it's easy to make NPT threads but access is the key.

One of my John Deere mowers has a valve probably similar to yours. In their infinite wisdom you can only open it a tiny fraction before it hits the frame. Draining the 3 quarts of oil took... well I gave up after waiting half an hour and replaced it.
Old 04-27-13, 01:14 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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i found the replacement plug on jacks small engines web site for $20. Kawasaki engines usually have decent quality parts. Guess I'm going to replace it rather than go the route of making a plug and dealing with finding right threads and all.
Old 04-27-13, 01:18 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Old 05-05-13, 07:08 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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I got the replacement oil valve from jacks small engines and replaced my faulty valve. About a four hr job for me. Had to remove the frame crossmember on the bottom supporting the engine to have room to turn to valve to remove and replace it. it was very difficult to put the side bolts back into the side frame and I only managed doing so by tying fishing line to end bolts after fishing them though and pulling bolts through from the inside out. I hope to never have to replace that valve again!

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