Snapper model SR1030 riding mower won't start

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  #1  
Old 04-21-13, 06:06 PM
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Unhappy Snapper model SR1030 riding mower won't start

I recently acquired a Snapper SR1030 riding mower (10 HP). The first time I tried to start it, I moved the engine speed lever to choke 3 times and it started right up. It ran for about 20 minutes and then shut off. I tried to start it, but it wouldn't even turn over. Absolutely nothing. I found that I had forgot to unscrew the fuel vent before beginning to cut my lawn. I opening it up. Still, nothing. After a good while of troubleshooting using the electrical schematic, I discovered an open fuse (in the line from ignition to the starter solenoid). Replaced this fuse. Still nothing at all. I decided to rule out a faulty battery (which is about 4 years old) by connecting my car battery to the mower's battery. Now, it finally turned over, but still won't start. I noticed that the pedal/clutch switch was not being pressed in when the clutch pedal was depressed. Re-positioned this switch so that it is being depressed with the clutch pedal. I exercised the choke the exact same way that I did when it did start for me. Turns over, but still won't start up. Anyone have similar problems with this (or any) mower? Help please.
 
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Old 04-21-13, 06:36 PM
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Hello gml76,

First.... If the battery is 4 years old replace it, After a year on these small batteries your running on borrowed time.

The clutch/brake switch is wired to the start circuit, The seat switch is wired to the ignition system. If your not sitting in the seat while cranking it will not start, If you've been sitting in the seat while cranking check the seat switch with a multimeter set on ohm's and make sure it's closing circuit when depressed.


Good Luck
 
  #3  
Old 04-22-13, 11:31 AM
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Sorry. I forgot to mention that I did in fact check all switches on the unit (pedal, seat, deck, and ignition) with my multi-meter. They are all good.

Also, I am sitting on the seat when cranking.

???
 
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Old 04-22-13, 05:15 PM
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Under the seat are 2 compartments, one has the battery, the other has the solenoid. In the side with the solenoid, there will also be a black module plugged into the wiring harness. This is the safety interlock module. When all switches and the coil check out and you still have no spark, this is the culprit. Sometimes the connector gets full of dust and crud and when it gets wet, it shorts out the whole thing. Cleaning it out and drying it usually solves that problem. Other times, the module is just bad. Check for spark, if none, unplug the kill wire from the coil. if still none, the coil is bad. If you get spark, then the module, wiring, or a safety switch is the problem.
 
  #5  
Old 05-08-13, 07:30 AM
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Still having problems

All of the safety switches check good. I pulled the safety interlock module. There was a lot of dust & dirt, which I cleaned off. I plugged it back in and tried it, but there was no change. I'm still getting 12 Volts to the starter, but the engine will not start/run. I pulled the safety interlock module again and checked it with my Ohmmeter. Two of the four module's terminals are shorted together. I don't think that this is normal, unless the module contains a relay. Excuss my ignorance, but how and where do I check for spark? Which is the "Kill" wire? Does it sound like the module is most likely faulty? If so, do you know of a good online source for them? Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 05-08-13, 09:25 AM
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Take the spark plug out, plug the wire on to it, lay it where it is touching metal on the engine and crank the engine while watching for spark at the spark plug electrode.
 
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Old 05-09-13, 05:36 AM
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I replaced the spark plug (needed it anyways) and checked for spark. I am not getting any spark. Where should I go from here? Thanks!
 
  #8  
Old 05-09-13, 09:22 AM
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Unplug the kill wire from the coil and see if you get spark then.
 
  #9  
Old 05-20-13, 09:13 AM
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Thumbs up Problem Resolved!

I wanted to post an update on my issue. Turns out, the reason my mower wasn't starting was because there wasn't any spark being produced. The reason for the "no spark" condition was a faulty ignition coil. It's funny though. I checked the coil with an Ohmmeter and it didn't read a short or an open, as I would have expected. It measured at about 4.7K Ohms. Obviously, you can't rely on an Ohmmeter test to tell you if an ignition coil is good or bad. I learned that you have to check for a spark. I replaced the coil with an OEM part I purchased from a local mower repair/parts shop. I also went ahead and replaced the battery (which was over 4 years old with corrosion on the positive post) as well. It starts up quite easily now and runs very nicely. Thank you guys again for your posts! They were very helpful and I would have been lost otherwise.
 
  #10  
Old 05-20-13, 09:27 AM
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There is really no way to check a coil with Ohm/volt meter, either it has spark or it doesn't. Good to hear your up and running!
 
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