Husqvarna Rz5424 keeps blowing fuse
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Husqvarna Rz5424 keeps blowing fuse
Put a new battery on this Husqvarna RZ5424/965881301 after it has set through the winter. It blew the 20 amp fuse. Put in a new fuse and blew that one tried again and blew again when I try to start it. I added a small jump wire and the starter would not turn the engine over. Is it the solinoid? Thanks.
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Check , check and double check you battery cable instalation,,,should not be blowing that many fuses if all connected correctly. Or you have a dead short that may be at the solenoid.
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The cables are connected correct at the battery( the old battery is still good). I will check the solenoid. how do I determan if it is a dead short at the solenoid? Thanks.
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O.K. New news. The battery had been installed wrong. blew the 20 amp fuse. A jumper wire was put in in place of the fuse. Then the battery cables were noticed and changed. (Thats where I came in.) I found a connecter that had over heated and shorted and fixed it. Now the mower starts and runs, But now when you engage the blades it blows the 7.5 fuse. I checked the wires and all seem fine. Unpluged the magnetic switch and the fuse still blows when you pull to engage the blades. Would the Pull switch for the blades short out from the cables being crossed and a jumper being used instead of the fuse? How should I test the switch? Thanks
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Time to check to see if someone also did a little creative electrical work for the PTO engagement. Hopefully it's something simple like a wire shorting.
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The electro magnetic switch. It is attached near the fly wheel has three wires two white with a purple in the center. That is what I got from the schematic. It was listed in the trouble shooting guide as a possible reason for the blade not operating. With it unpluged the fuse still blew.
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I have followed wires and cannot find any shorts. Would the solenoid blow the PTO fuse. Would the creative fuse jumping cause the PTO engagement switch short out? How can I test or check out the wireing on it?
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I don't know what clutch you have but here is a link to troubleshoot a clutch. The procedure should be about the same for your clutch only the resistance and current values might be different. I think the coil resistance would be the important test as that would show a short inside the coil as very little resistance.
#13
Ok, sounds a lot like the voltage regulator, but if unplugging it didn't do anything, it's insignificant. I would ohm the clutch as Pilot Dane suggests. It is likely shorted.
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It is so strange! While working on the mower this past weekend. The seat was up, the mower would start (seat up no one setting in it) no fuse in the 7.5 when you pulled up on the mower switch the engine would start to die. If you pushed the switch down the engine would keep running. If you have a 7.5 fuse in and pull up on the blade switch,the fuse blows but the engine keeps running. I unplugged the electro magnetic clutch and the fuse still blows. I had notice a connector that had a purple wire, red, and grey jump wire looked like it might had shorted through so direct wired it. Started the mower and blades worked. Drove it with blades going about 100 feet fuse blew. Would the gas sensor blow and short out everything. This has me stumped.
#15
The connector to the PTO clutch likely has a diode in it. Check to see if it is good. There is no "gas sensor" on your mower. Maybe you're talking about the solenoid on your carburetor. If so, and it was shorted out badly enough to blow the fuse, then the engine wouldn't run. Is a 7.5 amp fuse what was originally in it? I would have expected a 15 or 20 amp fuse.