Honda ES6500 generator won't start

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  #1  
Old 04-28-13, 11:23 PM
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Honda ES6500 generator won't start

Hey there! Thank you so much for your help! I have a Honda ES6500 Generator - which has only about 20 hours on it, but has not been run in about 4 years... Prior to this, I serviced it every 9 months or so...

Anyway, per the manual - I have replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil, cleaned the sediment cap, changed out all fuel in the system and added Sea Foam - and have changed out coolant and checked, cleaned all connections...

Also, just put in a new battery...

(Just FYI - given the precise oil specs in the manual - I was sure to get both the oil and the plugs from Honda...)

It won't fire... If I pour a LITTLE gas in the air filter, it will fire for a moment, but won't stay on... Obviously I don't want to do this too much, but just wanted to check to see if it would fire...

Given that the fuel can be drained out of the drain hose, and given that fuel poured into the carb with the air filter off - and will start and run for a second - I'm assuming I have fuel not making it all the way into the carb problem... I know my way around an engine enough to fix the problem - if I have a clear idea what the real problem is - but not enough to totally diagnose and go directly to the problem... Basically I know what a carb is and how it works, and know what jets are - but don't know where they are specifically...

Anyway, I'd really appreciate help if anyone has any advice, or the actual service manual - I want to start taking off the carb and look for gump, but am not sure if this should be my primary attack...

Thank you so much for your help!

Whistler
 

Last edited by albertcamus; 04-29-13 at 12:19 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-29-13, 12:05 AM
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I detest small gasoline engines and that is why I converted my generator to use gaseous fuel, either propane or natural gas.

I am 99.9% certain that your problem is a result of gasoline going bad. It could be the vent hole in the gasoline tank cap but more likely is just plain gum and gunk in the tiny passages of the carburetor. These carburetors are fairly simple so you can probably clean it yourself. You will need to remove it from the engine and completely disassemble it. The main jet comes out from the bottom after removing the bowl assembly. You will need different sizes of screwdrivers, small to tiny to remove all the screws. You may find some "limiter" caps on the idle mixture adjustment (if any) that will be destroyed in removal.

Cleaning with the really nasty smelling carburetor cleaner is best but the spray can stuff may work. You need a fairly high pressure compressed air to blow all the passages clear.

Work slowly and make drawings of where EVERYTHING goes. Any adjustment screws (any screw that has a spring on it) count how many turns to remove and note that on your drawing. Best to have a large sheet of butcher paper or the like to lay everything out with plenty of room and to allow for notes. You need to work in an area that has excellent lighting, a smooth floor (for when you drop something) a flashlight and to be able to close the area when you start to get tired. Again, work slowly and stop as soon as you start to get tired, if you don't you WILL make mistakes and that could end up with you paying upwards of $300 for a new carburetor.

OR, take the carburetor to the local authorized repair station for rebuild.
 
  #3  
Old 04-29-13, 12:37 AM
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OR, take the carburetor to the local authorized repair station for rebuild.
I concur with Furd 100%

Don't even mess with the carburetor yourself. I use Honda generators exclusively and have had to send the carbs out for cleaning. They have some small bores/passages that are hard to clean. The shop drops them in cleaning solutions to clean out old gas.

Take it from me......I fix everything for myself but when I get a Honda that's got a carb problem due to old gas..... it gets sent out. A generator carb must be clean and good shape to keep the genny at the proper speed.

After you get it cleaned and running again...... be sure to turn the gas supply off when finished with the genny and let it run until it stalls. It will run all the fuel out of the carb.
 
  #4  
Old 04-29-13, 01:04 AM
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After you get it cleaned and running again...... be sure to turn the gas supply off when finished with the genny and let it run until it stalls. It will run all the fuel out of the carb.
Maybe Honda carburetors are different (I never worked on a Honda) but all the carburetors I have worked on over the years still had a significant amount of gasoline in the float chamber (bowl) after the engine stopped from lack of fuel. My Yamaha generator had a bowl drain for draining this gasoline. I've seen this gasoline in the bowl turn to jelly or worse from sitting too long.
 
  #5  
Old 04-29-13, 05:10 AM
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These small engine carbs lately don't even have adjusting screws. They have real small passages that plug up if any gas stays in the carb for long. My pressure washer I have to keep the choke on to keep the thing running or else the mixture is to lean. I may try to clean that carb in an ultrasonic cleaner but would really like to find a better (old style) carb for it.
 
  #6  
Old 05-05-13, 03:30 PM
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Check 15 amp fuse on right side of control panel. If good, check fuel solenoid on carb for power to it and that it energizes. It will not allow fuel to the engine if not working.

Frank
 
  #7  
Old 12-02-13, 04:12 PM
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I have a Honda ES 6500 that keeps blowing the 15 amp fuse. What is going on?
 
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Old 12-02-13, 04:34 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Does the fuse blow with the key switch off ?
 
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Old 03-02-14, 12:54 PM
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Furd has your problem nailed. I have had a Honda EU6500 for 6 years now and twice in that time, the carb clogged up on me with bad fuel. Just because you open the drain valve on the carb, that does not drain the bowl and if that fuel is left there very long, it will gum up especially if the fuel has ethanol in it. I am not brave enough to clean a carb myself so I have had to have it serviced twice by a Honda dealer and it cost me about $175.00 each time. The service manager told me to stop this problem, I needed to put STA-BIL or some kind of fuel additive into my tank to keep water out of the fuel. STA-BIL just introduced a new Marine fuel additive (green in color) that is supposed to keep water and ethanol out of your fuel. He also stressed that I keep the fuel tank topped off with Premium fuel. This would eliminate the air in your tank that could form moisture. I have been using this advice for a year now and have had no more problems. The only problem I have now is having to replace the battery. Auto parts store wanted $82.00 for the battery. Put me in shock. I declined and will search the internet for a better price.
Almost forgot, the service manager said to run the generator at least once a month and run it under a load. He said the generating part needed to be worked every time I ran it. So I put two 1500 watt electric heaters on it and that puts a half load on it. Hope this info helps out.
 
  #10  
Old 03-08-14, 04:06 PM
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Not to be flipiant here......

but did you ensure that the fuel turn-off valve is on? I only say that because I onced had the curse of trying to start a machine that drove me crazy until I realized a hour later a obscure turn-off valve that I had forgot about from lay-up . Turned it, and viola, the machine ran like a charm. (kicked myself for a week on that one)
 
  #11  
Old 03-12-14, 06:35 PM
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ES6500 generator- different problem with starting

Of course this only happens when you need it. Power outage two days ago, generator started right up. After about two minutes, I flipped the circuit breaker switch on. The engine coughed? and quit. When I tried to start it again, it wouldn't turn over anymore. At first, when the key was in the ON position, the oil light would come on. When I turned to the START position, the oil light went out and there was a click sound in the engine area (not the control panel). The fuze is OK. The battery is OK (even bought a new one to be sure. After a few tries, nothing happens- no oil light, no click sound. I assume it is an electrical problem. The wiring diagram in the manual indicates two circuit breakers, but I'm not sure where they are or how to test them. Any ideas?
 
  #12  
Old 03-12-14, 09:22 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I think the two breakers you are seeing in the schematic are the ones for the AC output.
There should be a little black cap, I think on the right side, that uses a 10A glass fuse. This fuse protects the LV wiring including the starter wiring.

I sent you a PM too.
 
  #13  
Old 03-24-15, 12:16 PM
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oil light is on but oil is full

I also have a 6500 Honda generator I will start it and it will only run for a few minutes then die and the oil light will be on but it doesn't need oil I'm guessing clogged carb because it has sat for a while any other idea of what the problem could be? Thanks for any and all help!
 
  #14  
Old 03-24-15, 03:54 PM
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If the oil light comes on that means it's either low on oil or the low oil sensor has failed.

How is the oil level?

I'm not sure on the Honda but can you disable the low oil cutoff to test it?
 
  #15  
Old 04-06-15, 07:08 PM
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There are either one or two wires coming from the Low Oil Sensor you can Unplug them and it should run to replace the sensor you have to take the engine apart you can get replacement aftermarket NAPA does carry some of them, I have a couple of these engines at work that I have had to do this to. Just ALWAYS check the oil in them BEFORE USING until you replace the sensor
 
  #16  
Old 04-06-15, 07:11 PM
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Does the carb have an electric coil on the bottom of the carb? Posible it is not working, it is a fuel shut off coil.
 
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