Husqvarna mower blowing fuses and not running
#1
06-21-13, 06:02 PM
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Husqvarna mower blowing fuses and not running
Ok this is driving me nuts!! I have a Husqvarna YTH1542 riding mower. It has been running fine without problems, has new battery and good starter and solenoid. A friend of mine was using it the other day, hit a bump pretty fast, and it just shutoff and would not start again. The ignition fuse was blown, so replaced it and automatically blew it again (this occurred 5 more times after this)!
I have scanned over every wire looking for pinches or broken pieces, tightened any loose grounds and nothing was found out of place. I'm guessing the fused ignition wire might be bad, but I'd really like to get this mower running again quickly!
Can anyone help on possible electrical problems associated with hitting a big bump that would cause the fuse to blow like this? Or can anyone help with some steps to troubleshoot this thing? Many thanks in advance!!
I have scanned over every wire looking for pinches or broken pieces, tightened any loose grounds and nothing was found out of place. I'm guessing the fused ignition wire might be bad, but I'd really like to get this mower running again quickly!
Can anyone help on possible electrical problems associated with hitting a big bump that would cause the fuse to blow like this? Or can anyone help with some steps to troubleshoot this thing? Many thanks in advance!!
#2
06-21-13, 09:59 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Disconnect the negative battery cable and put a new fuse in the holder. Now, with the key off, take a 12 volt test light and connect one end to the negative battery terminal and the other end to the negative cable end. It will light the test light if there is a short. Now you have control over the circuit and you can start by disconnecting different connectors until you find the one that turns the light off. When you do, you've narrowed it down to whatever is on that circuit. Do this and post the results and we'll go from there.
#3
06-23-13, 09:08 AM
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Here's what I've found so far... The red wire going from the ignition switch (terminal B) to the fuse holder was bad. I just replaced this wire with a new one and still the same thing happened, it blew the fuse immediately. I can jumper the new wire to the wire leading to the solenoid and it will turn, but the wire runs too hot and smokes.
Am I missing something here? Any other direction to look into?
Am I missing something here? Any other direction to look into?
#4
06-23-13, 06:24 PM
Group Moderator
How was the wire bad ? A "bad wire" will not blow a fuse unless it's shorting to ground.
You need to follow a logical chain here. If you are asking for our help then you'll need to follow what we tell you.
1) Disconnect the negative from the battery.
2) Connect one side of test light to the negative battery terminal.
3) Connect the other side of the test light to the black wire that goes to tractor.
4) Make sure good fuse is installed. The test light should not be on now.
5) Turn the key on.....the light will probably come on. Turning the key on supplies power to the A1 line coming out of key switch. Now....disconnect the two red wires on the PTO switch. Is the light still on and the same brightness? If no...PTO is the problem. If yes...we'll go on. The following items are also connected to A1 and will need to be disconnected one at a time to determine where the load is coming from.
- Blue on the optional hour meter
- Blue to the optional fuel shut off solenoid
- Red to the charge regulator.
- Power to power outlet port.
- Orange to headlight switch.
The following is a link to your owners manual and on page 27 is the wiring schematic. There are 10 different manuals listed there and I picked the closest one.
Husqvarna doc/HUSO/HUSO2006_USen/HUSO2006_USen_O0602058_.pdf
You need to follow a logical chain here. If you are asking for our help then you'll need to follow what we tell you.
1) Disconnect the negative from the battery.
2) Connect one side of test light to the negative battery terminal.
3) Connect the other side of the test light to the black wire that goes to tractor.
4) Make sure good fuse is installed. The test light should not be on now.
5) Turn the key on.....the light will probably come on. Turning the key on supplies power to the A1 line coming out of key switch. Now....disconnect the two red wires on the PTO switch. Is the light still on and the same brightness? If no...PTO is the problem. If yes...we'll go on. The following items are also connected to A1 and will need to be disconnected one at a time to determine where the load is coming from.
- Blue on the optional hour meter
- Blue to the optional fuel shut off solenoid
- Red to the charge regulator.
- Power to power outlet port.
- Orange to headlight switch.
The following is a link to your owners manual and on page 27 is the wiring schematic. There are 10 different manuals listed there and I picked the closest one.
Husqvarna doc/HUSO/HUSO2006_USen/HUSO2006_USen_O0602058_.pdf
#5
06-23-13, 09:07 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
If you won't test it, how can we help? Jumping wires and them getting hot doesn't tell us anything.
#6
06-24-13, 06:42 AM
If you follow the test procedure that has been posted it will tell you if you have a dead short, which it sounds like you have. Ya gotta follow a set procedure to do this, if not you will continue to blow fuses and get frustrated!!
#7
07-02-13, 12:09 PM
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Sorry for my delayed response to this thread. I did find where the short was and it was in the kill wire. It was shorting out somewhere right after the 6-plug harness, so I'm just running new wires for it.
Now on to the next task... getting this engine to run more smoothly!! The engine is idling very rough and has heavy vibration. The idle seems to flutter a lot (idle normal then tries to die out, then back, etc.). When you run throttle up all the way, it sounds ok, but at lower rpms is horrible! It has the Kawasaki engine.
I've already changed out the plugs and cleaned the main jet in the carb. Any other ideas would be much appreciated!!
Now on to the next task... getting this engine to run more smoothly!! The engine is idling very rough and has heavy vibration. The idle seems to flutter a lot (idle normal then tries to die out, then back, etc.). When you run throttle up all the way, it sounds ok, but at lower rpms is horrible! It has the Kawasaki engine.
I've already changed out the plugs and cleaned the main jet in the carb. Any other ideas would be much appreciated!!
#8
07-02-13, 08:38 PM
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Sounds like it's running on one cylinder. The electrical problem still doesn't sit well with me. There should be no power on the kill wire, so how does the kill wire short and blow fuses?
#9
07-02-13, 09:42 PM
Group Moderator
Kill wire ??
I thought you just turned the key off to stop the engine. There isn't any kill wire shown in the diagram.
I thought you just turned the key off to stop the engine. There isn't any kill wire shown in the diagram.
#10
07-02-13, 10:28 PM
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The kill wire is the wire that typically grounds out the coil, killing the ignition when you turn the key off.
#11
07-07-13, 08:09 PM
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It actually was not only the kill wire shorting. I also found an additional wire in the ignition harness that was shorting (orange wire). Swapped it out and it no longer blows the fuse, so good to go on that.
However I can't test it out because after I finished this, I can't get it to fire up. Clicking from the solenoid but not turning the starter. Replaced the solenoid and still nothing. Check the battery and it's low, but seems to be close enough to at least try and crank, but I'm getting nothing. Looks like I'll be trying a new battery tomorrow!
Seems like I'm getting something different everytime a mystery is solved!! The fun of these repairs!
However I can't test it out because after I finished this, I can't get it to fire up. Clicking from the solenoid but not turning the starter. Replaced the solenoid and still nothing. Check the battery and it's low, but seems to be close enough to at least try and crank, but I'm getting nothing. Looks like I'll be trying a new battery tomorrow!
Seems like I'm getting something different everytime a mystery is solved!! The fun of these repairs!
#13
07-08-13, 04:50 AM
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#14
07-08-13, 08:59 AM
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A multimeter can't test the battery other than showing you the surface charge. If the battery was bad, jumping it should have gotten results (provided your cables are good and were making solid contact). When the solenoid clicks, check for voltage at the starter lug.
#15
09-27-13, 02:50 PM
i have same problem with a 2007 lgt2654husqvarna ran all test sugested by cheese found burned wire to lights replaced wire, lights working fine but still blows fuse as soon as switch is turned on help please lws12
#16
09-27-13, 06:53 PM
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Welcome to the forums.
I'm a little lost here....the lights come on with the key.
So if you turn the key on and the fuse blows......how are the lights working ?
Did you follow the diagnostic routine I posted in post # 4 ?
Is that the complete model number.... LGT2654 or are there letters after it ?
I'm a little lost here....the lights come on with the key.
So if you turn the key on and the fuse blows......how are the lights working ?
Did you follow the diagnostic routine I posted in post # 4 ?
Is that the complete model number.... LGT2654 or are there letters after it ?
#17
06-12-15, 10:54 AM
Simular problem... possible solution
Due to the age of this thread, I am replying more for anyone looking for possible solutions - not necessarily the original poster - I hope your issues are worked out.
My father in law was driving his 3 year old Husqvarna lawn tractor and it just died. No crank, no lights, nothing.
So, I found a blown 20 amp fuse, replaced it. Now all power has been restored.
BUT... when I went to put the fuse holder clip back on the frame - it gounded out! Some how, the clip itself was making contact with the power wire and over time it had vibrated the paint off the frame and blew the fuse.
I hope this helps someone!
My father in law was driving his 3 year old Husqvarna lawn tractor and it just died. No crank, no lights, nothing.
So, I found a blown 20 amp fuse, replaced it. Now all power has been restored.
BUT... when I went to put the fuse holder clip back on the frame - it gounded out! Some how, the clip itself was making contact with the power wire and over time it had vibrated the paint off the frame and blew the fuse.
I hope this helps someone!
#18
06-22-16, 10:22 AM
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blowing fuses
Hey guys I have been reading the threads and still need help
yth20k46 husqvarna rider starts for 5 seconds and blows fuse
initialy as soon as I put a new fuse in and turned the key it would blow the fuse
new ignition switch,new carb solenoid
disconnected the batt and with test light on neg post and lead to frame NO light until key is turned on. Found 1 wire that was chaffed and replaced,still blew fuse.No pto however I disconnected every switch and with key on and test light on
the only way it went off is if i disconnected the hot wire going to the fuel solenoid.The test light was brighter at the solenoid.Checked the stater for ohms ,it tested good. I also bought 12 fuses disconnected 1 switch at a time turned key on and blew every fuse.I checked every ground all are intact and tight, Please help
yth20k46 husqvarna rider starts for 5 seconds and blows fuse
initialy as soon as I put a new fuse in and turned the key it would blow the fuse
new ignition switch,new carb solenoid
disconnected the batt and with test light on neg post and lead to frame NO light until key is turned on. Found 1 wire that was chaffed and replaced,still blew fuse.No pto however I disconnected every switch and with key on and test light on
the only way it went off is if i disconnected the hot wire going to the fuel solenoid.The test light was brighter at the solenoid.Checked the stater for ohms ,it tested good. I also bought 12 fuses disconnected 1 switch at a time turned key on and blew every fuse.I checked every ground all are intact and tight, Please help
#19
06-22-16, 11:03 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Do the test light procedure, unplug the hour meter and the carb solenoid. Is the test light still on after unplugging them?
#20
06-23-16, 09:52 AM
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As mentioned yesterday the light went off when i unplugged the hot wire from the soleniod. However when i put the mower back together it started and ran for 2 hours without incident,however the only thing I did differently was to attach the fuse holder to the frame, so I am not sure what happned. I will run it today for another couple hours and see what happens. The question now is does the fuse holder have to be attached to the frame. Thanks
#21
06-23-16, 10:25 AM
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No, it doesn't have to be attached. It shouldn't make any difference unless it's moving a chaffed wire to a short. I know you said it was out with the solenoid unplugged, but if it's going to blow a fuse, it will be on. It can't blow the fuse and not turn the light on in that test.
#22
06-23-16, 10:49 AM
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Roger that, its just weird because 1st it blew the fuse when I turned the key to start it,and after poking around for an hour it started for 5 seconds then blew the fuse,then after i pretty much disassembled everything and put it all back together its now running. Thank you for the imput and help I will post again if anything happnes
#23
07-25-16, 10:25 AM
Husqvarna YTH24V48 fuse keeps blowing
I have the same problem on my mower
I have gone through the light test and found when disconnecting the ignitions switch the light goes out. Does this indicate the problem is the switch?
I have gone through the light test and found when disconnecting the ignitions switch the light goes out. Does this indicate the problem is the switch?
#24
07-25-16, 10:53 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
No, the switch should be on and the solenoid unplugged. If it has an hour meter and/or lights that come on with the key, unplug those too. Unplugging the switch removes power from the system, so that doesn't help find the problem. Leave the switch plugged in and unplug other things until it goes out.
#25
07-25-16, 11:14 AM
With the negative cable disconnected, ignition switch hooked up and key in the off position the light is on. When I disconnect the single red wire connector coming off the solenoid the light goes out.
#26
07-25-16, 10:51 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
That single red wire is the power for the entire harness. It needs to be connected. You are disconnecting the harness from power by doing that, so of course the light will go out. Pulling the fuse or disconnecting the positive cable from the battery will do the same thing. Instead of doing that, you need to be disconnecting the drain from the system.
#27
08-05-16, 01:11 AM
Having same problem blowing fuses. It even cranked over with the switch completly turned off when I depressed the clutch pedal. NOT GOOD. The switch contacts are not well made on the YTH22V46. The switch pops apart easily and I noticed the contact plate was not seated well and somewhat deformed. Took it apart and jumpered the B (battery) and A1 ignition, carb solonoid, generator, etc) harness contacts, then quick contact with S (engages solonoid and starter) harness contact to B and started without any problems. Don't know if the switch is the problem for sure, waiting on a replacement switch.
