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no fire on a briggs&Stratton 12;5


richardben's Avatar
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07-02-13, 06:38 PM   #1  
no fire on a briggs&Stratton 12;5

I have a briggs 12;5hp, the valves were out of spec.so I added some (ark welded) so I could get it with in range,int,set at 5-7(6) exst9-11(10).Cleaned out the carb and still no fire? I got spark,and when I spray either still nothing,doesn't even try to start?Any suggestions?Model# 29T707,Type 1154E1 Code 99022370, Motor is on the bench I think it came out of a MTD riding mower

 
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07-02-13, 08:28 PM   #2  
You welded the valves??????? I'm speachless!!!!

 
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07-02-13, 09:03 PM   #3  
Oh man. On flat head engines, the valves wear TIGHTER, not looser, and grinding metal off is needed, not adding to it. If it was loose, you need to search elsewhere for the problem (worn camshaft, lifters, etc...)

Welding to the valves surely changes the temper and such, but a weld is usually a pretty hard surface, so provided it is done well and ground properly, I suppose there's no reason it wouldn't work. I just think you have problems somewhere else.

Do the valves open far? How much out of spec were the valves?


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07-03-13, 05:43 AM   #4  
They were both at 0.013,The local briggs dealer told me what the valves should be, this is the 2nd briggs I have had to add in about 11yrs,not a common thing but, I have done this before.Cagles in Tunnel Hill use to give me my info.I myself think the carb is either the wrong one or it need's to be replaced.I'll pull the dead again and check the gap and see if I can't find another carb.Thanks for the replies & will keep ya posted on my results,

 
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07-03-13, 05:48 AM   #5  
mowerdude When you don't have an income,you do what you can to get by on. other than buying new valves, what would you do if some one ground off more than needed?????????? You add to fill in the bit that is missing. any suggestions would help

 
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07-03-13, 08:56 AM   #6  
If it was a carb problem, I would expect it to try to start when you spray the ether in it. Unless it's flooded.


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07-03-13, 02:57 PM   #7  
@ richardben,,I'm sorry you don't have an income, what would I do??? I would replace the valve PERIOD! I have heard of people do this but your weld will be softer than the tappet and will only mash over or break off and a clearence problem you will have again. I would not subject my customers to a welded valve, but in your case, I hope it works for you!

 
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07-03-13, 05:08 PM   #8  
I didn't mean for it to sound so sorrowful, These engine's are mine to play with ,and most of the time I can figure them out. If this was someone's motor,yes I would replace the valves and the head gasket.I have 2,12.5 briggs, and no frame to put them in. I am working on a barter deal with a fellow I met, and he gave me an MTD frame, and I put a 5" pully on the rear but there is not enough room for an idler pulley ,so a craftsman will work.I want to make a go fast machine(40-50mph). With time on my hands I do a lot of puttering,& I'm learning in the process. I sure thank you for any information Ya'll can give me in the future,with my project's.

 
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07-03-13, 06:52 PM   #9  
Ok,,,I understand

 
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07-03-13, 09:43 PM   #10  
If you have compression and spark, I would expect it to pop or run with the ether. Since it's not, I'd suspect either it's flooded or maybe the flywheel key is sheared.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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