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my 12hp Briggs & Stratton has no charge to the battery


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08-03-13, 06:37 PM   #1  
my 12hp Briggs & Stratton has no charge to the battery

Can the diode be replaced on the stator? I checked my Lowes riding mower and it has good charging goin back to the battery, but I checked my M.T.D. and there is no charge going back to the battery. I checked 2or 3 stators I have, and unless I scrape the wire & get a good connection there is no continuity. I used my multimeter to see if the stator had continuity on my 12hp and took the flywheel off and changed out the stator but Still had no charge going back to the battery? I have changed the stator 3 times with different stator's and still no charge going back to the battery? can all the stator's be bad, What can I try next. Thank you for any help you can offer.

 
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08-03-13, 07:33 PM   #2  
What is the model # of your engine?

 
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08-03-13, 08:34 PM   #3  
How are you checking for a charge? Are the magnets in place under the flywheel? The diode can be changed, but the chances of 3 being bad are pretty much nil. They rarely go bad.


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08-04-13, 05:04 AM   #4  
I am using a master craft multimeter,I put the arrow of the multi meter on ohms, 20k is on the sign of the multimeter,and a 1 on the screen, and I put the red on the red wire, and the black on the motor to ground it and the 1 on the screen turns to three zero's and that is how the Briggs shop showed me how to check for continuity? I thought maybe I was checking it the wrong way, so I checked my Lowes riding mower and it shows 13-to 14 on the gauge, so I must be doing something wrong. I did hot wire the mower? and just maybe I wired it the wrong way?Fearless front on utube showed how to hot wire a lawn mower,so I did it that way?

 
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08-04-13, 01:58 PM   #5  
The model# is284707 & type is 0147-01. It has gone from no charging, to valves out of adjustment, to soaking the carb & cleaning it, to exhaust valve being out of adjustment to much ,so I will have to get a new valve(I'll get both)& readjust it to the right gap. The magnet's are there and none are loose,I was told the carb,valves out of adjustment, or bad stator ,can be the culprit of a no charge situation,?I thought all the stator's could not be bad,but I have never had this problem before so I'm getting a good schooling with hand's on,&not just from the book's.I know what I did,ajusted them both to0.011. The exaust gap.I must of had one of those brain fart's & not taking my time

 
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08-04-13, 02:24 PM   #6  
The valves and carburetor will have NO effect of the charging system. It has to do with the stator, magnets and or diode and or the voltage regulator if it has one,,,,this may have only a diode I am not sure as I have not looked up the model#.

 
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08-04-13, 02:30 PM   #7  
Here is link showing the parts involved of your charging system. Tri circuit will have a diode and a Daul circuit will have a regulator. Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 284707-0147-01

 
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08-04-13, 04:35 PM   #8  
I have the diode one there is no regulator, the screws do not have the washer? do you know if the washer is fiber so the screw is insulated from the hold down bolts. I have tested 3 stators and all had continuity, once I install it, I get the same result, no charging. Where would the regulator be if there was one? I can go see a friend of mine, and he has 5-6 riding mowers, I can go and check to see if the screws are insulated.Or can I install the regulator to avoid the diode, or add it to the system.

 
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08-04-13, 09:03 PM   #9  
I have no Idea what the washers are made of,,the regulator would be a small gray or chrome box on the side of the dip stick. Where are you measuring for voltage?? If at battery that would be good and voltage may only be about 13.5 volts if a diode,,,also make sure you are using the DC side of the meter.

 
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08-04-13, 10:22 PM   #10  
No, the screws aren't insulated from the stator. Crank up the engine and check for DC voltage at the stator connector. If none, check for AC voltage. Report results.


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08-06-13, 05:32 PM   #11  
my charging is not a problem any more

I looked up the wiring diagram I used to bypass all the safety switches ,and thought I would start all over, but this time I would go slower, and think as I do it. Darned if I didn't find, I spliced into the wrong wire, and after setting the valves and redoing 3 carbs and 3 day's of deep thought, and the help from you fellows ,I now have a charging system that work's, a smoother running motor, all with the help from ya'll. Thank you ever so much for your patience, as you can all figure out ,I do things with out thinking things through. I thank you again for you help.

 
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08-06-13, 09:20 PM   #12  
Your welcome,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 
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08-10-13, 12:37 PM   #13  
hard to start 16hp briggs

I have a new project, model#311777 type 0120-E1 code 990301ZD it's an intek ohv motor and when I try to crank it,it goes half way around and stops? Too much compression I think? set the valves at 0.04 but did not do any good ,need a little help before I mess it up worse. Any help would be appreciated.

 
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08-10-13, 08:47 PM   #14  
Either there is gas and/or oil in the cylinder, the valves are too loose, or the compression release on the camshaft isn't working.


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08-11-13, 06:58 AM   #15  
Can you tell me what the valves should be set at?I remember awhile ago ,I tried to get this running,the old fellow at the Briggs dealer could not figure out why the compression was so high,& told me to but a double head gasket on it,just to give it that little extra space.I must have got tired of messin with it and just put it away.I have an extra head for this motor,and I'll check the compression release after I pull the head and see if there is anything in the cylinder,also what should I torque the head&bottom bolts to?

 
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08-11-13, 10:26 AM   #16  
You don't pull the head, just crank it a bit to blow out whatever's in it, if anything. The double head gasket thing sounds like a real mickey mouse idea. The valves should be .005". You can see if the compression release is working by watching the rocker arms.


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08-12-13, 03:41 PM   #17  
Well I reset the valves to 0.05,and nothing came out of the cylinder, had to use a car battery to get it to crank and it fired but ran really rough. I could run it at half throttle and if I tried to give it more gas it would bog down and cough and sputter and carry on till I backed off on the gas. I guess it's a carb problem now? wouldn't you say. I was shocked it was even charging. The compression you could hear just a bit as I turned the flywheel. Is there anything you would suggest to do as far as getting it to crank on the mower battery?Seems to have a lot of compression.I should have done a compression test while I was out there,I'll do one tomorrow.Thanks for your advice.

 
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08-12-13, 07:39 PM   #18  
You still haven't said if the compression release is working or not. Did you have to adjust either of the rocker arms a lot to get it right (One was much looser than the other)? How are you adjusting the valves?


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08-13-13, 06:07 AM   #19  
Yes I did, when I turned the flywheel by hand you could hear just a whisper of air escape the combustion chamber. And when I adjusted the valves I used a feeler gauge. I had adjusted them the day before but I adjusted them to 0.04.Is there a general setting for the carb? I know on small motor's it's 1-1/2 turns then once it's going you fine tune it from there. I guess it depends on the kind of carb you have on the motor?. When I was tinkering yesterday if I backed off on the idle, the engine would turn over some what easier than when is was adjusted and running. Can you tell me what the idle speed should be, I think mower's rpm is 3200 to 3600, I can get it to 1270 but any higher it starts to backfire and bog down, I was using an rpm tachometer to set it.?

 
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08-13-13, 10:07 AM   #20  
The whisper of air escaping the chamber isn't because of the compression release. You have to visually verify that it's working.

How did you set the engine to set the valves?

Also, you didn't answer if one was very loose or not.


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08-13-13, 11:18 AM   #21  
I can't say for sure about the valve moving, they were both set at 0.04 the day before and they were both just about the same when I set them with my feeler gauge, I turned the flywheel till both valves were loose and the piston was at the top, I used a screw driver to feel it come to tds,then set the valves. How much of visual will the valve make when it releases the compression? and will it be the top valve or bottom?

 
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08-13-13, 12:29 PM   #22  
The piston needs to be 1/" down from tdc on the power stroke to set the valves, otherwise they will not be set right.

The very first time you adjusted the valves.... was one or both very loose?

The bottom valve (exhaust) should bump just a little to open and let a little compression out pretty close to TDC on the compression stroke.


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08-13-13, 03:34 PM   #23  
The very first time I saw this motor it was not running,My friend asked me to look at it as it would not run. I took the valve cover off and the nut for the bottom valve was broken off with the torx screw still in it. we replaced the head just incase the valve stem was bent & replaced the push rods & it still It would not fire.The owner brought over another riding mower with a 12hp briggs and wanted us to change motor's and we did and he was happy. I brought the 16 hp home and tried to fix it,asked lots of questions and the briggs repair shop said an old man years ago had the same trouble with an engine and he put in a double head gasket and it worked fine. That's when he said I might want to try it. didn't do any good. so I'm trying to get it to work the way it's suppose to again. I'm reading the small motor books I got when I took a course on the internet from Penn & Foster. I got 89% but most of it was common sense. I appreciate the patience you and mower dude have for me, and trying to help me get some more hands on experience. If the valves were not close to being set right, would the motor start? I'll look at the valves again tomorrow and look for the compression release.Thanks again for your help.

 
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08-13-13, 05:51 PM   #24  
The engine can start and run with the valves off. If they are far off, it can still run, but poorly. If the compression release isn't working, it can be because of incorrectly adjusted valves OR the compression release may be broken/missing from the camshaft. That's why I keep asking about it and the valve adjustments. Sometimes a cam lobe will wear off and the valve clearance gets really loose and it takes a lot to close the gap. If yours took a lot of adjustment, this might be the case. If that's the case, the camshaft needs replacement. I'm thinking that's what we are now up against, but still not sure. Need to know if the comp release is working first.


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08-14-13, 09:23 AM   #25  
I tried with looking at it to move but no movement. The 2 valves went through the cycle and no movement from either,I tried it on both strokes but no movement from either one. Once the rocker moved it went through to cycle for each rocker,no movement from either one.I watched utube last night on how others set the valves and did just what they did but there was no change.There should be a spring like thing on the cam? or would it be an extra bump built into the cam? or could it be either one?


Last edited by richardben; 08-14-13 at 09:25 AM. Reason: forgot to check the spelling
 
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08-14-13, 09:15 PM   #26  
Sounds to me like the cam is probably bad, but I'm not looking at it. There is a spring loaded weight and bump on the cam... or should be.


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08-15-13, 04:55 AM   #27  
I'll take the motor out of the frame and will order a gasket for the bottom and let you know what I find. I think the spring on the ACR is weak & will get the old fellow to order me one after I get it out. I had it out last time I had the motor apart but everything was there ? But I think the spring is weak and not doing the correct job. I'm going to replace it either way. Will let you know how it goes.

 
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08-15-13, 12:38 PM   #28  
Cheese I just watched a video on how the acr works. Mine is all there but the spring is on the wrong side of the cam. there is NO spring to it.I ordered one today and will put the new one in but the right way.Will let ya know how I make out.

 
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08-23-13, 04:18 PM   #29  
I just finished my 16 hp intek ohv,fired right up but the carb is giving it to much gas,will have to try and adjust it,or rebuild it.The ACR was ok,I tried to order one but they told me I would have to buy the cam as well,so I used the old one.I did notice the spring was in front of the cam shaft,I put it where it was suppose to be,and it worked, spun over just fine. Thanks again for some great help. Do you set the carb the same as small 2 strokes 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out.I'm using the short carb with the 2 long bolts,and some have the backfire thing on the bottom of the carb,but this one doesn't have that on it. Or should I try and get the black one's that the breather goes on top of it? thanks again for your help.

 
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08-23-13, 08:58 PM   #30  
Glad we got that problem out of the way.

The carb question, I'm not following you there. One with long bolts and a black one with the breather on top... ? 1 1/2 turns out is the beginning setting for the mixture on the carb.


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08-24-13, 04:39 AM   #31  
Thanks cheese, the black one is the one with the long breather screw in the end, and the one with the long screw's most times have an anti backfire on the bottom of the carb. I'm going to switch carbs and see if that will work out better. When I get this motor running top notch I will run it ,hopefully at 40-50mph,then I can put the stock pulley back on and a deck & it's a riding mower again.

 
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08-24-13, 10:13 AM   #32  
Oh, you're talking about the really old flo-jet carb.

I don't think you'll find that you can do what you're thinking about with making it go fast and using it back and forth.


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08-24-13, 04:30 PM   #33  
Ya I found a 2 piece carb with the backfire arrester on the bottom, and it works rather well. I need to find out what the idle speed should be and the top rpm's. I also found a double pulley on a bracket, so I am hoping I can use that to take up the slack on the belt from where I reduced the back pulley. Things are coming together finally. I'll let you know how things are coming along.

 
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