Kohler Courage Pro SV840 27 HP Custom Ignition Wiring

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  #1  
Old 08-17-13, 03:03 AM
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Kohler Courage Pro SV840 27 HP Custom Ignition Wiring

I am building a hovercraft that is going to be powered by a Kohler Courage Pro (SV840) 27 hp engine. I wanted to add a push button ignition and just wanted to find out if my plans to wire it are correct. I wanted to use a two position key switch that turns the accessories on as well as the momentary on push button. The push button then can be pressed to start the engine. To turn it off you would turn the key off. There will also be a kill switch attached to a lanyard for safety just in case the operator falls overboard (hopefully won't ever be needed for that purpose).

I have not got my engine yet just wiring the dash and need to order parts. I have done some research online and believe the Kohler uses a 3 position 5 prong key switch. With terminals for ground, magneto, battery, accessories and ignition. I have based my design on this.

The parts I am planning on using are:

1 - 2 position maintained key switch with terminals for normally open and normally closed.
19mm Stainless Steel KEY Selector Lock Switch Maintained 2 Position 1NO 1NC | eBay

1 - Momentary on Push Button
19mm 12V Angel EYE Blue LED Metal Switch Momentary Push Button US | eBay

1 Kill Switch with lanyard
Sea-Dog : Quality Marine, Industrial and Rigging Hardware

I have never worked with relays before and the switches I am using are only rated for 5 amps at 250 VAC. So I think it would be a good idea to install a relay. I know people have successfully done this without relays in cars and on mowers with low amp rated switches but I don't want to take a chance of my engine not starting on a river. I have drawn up a wiring diagram I just wanted expert advise to see if what I am thinking is right or if changes are required. Below is my wiring diagram. Please let me know what you think.

Name:  ignition wiring push button.jpg
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  #2  
Old 08-17-13, 07:23 AM
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Hello skyeshoppe,

Your diagram looks good except one thing, You should move the inline fuse holder from the solenoid to the alternator/stator wire, The solenoid doesn't need to be fused after the relay since it's fused before going in......



 
  #3  
Old 08-19-13, 03:12 AM
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Thanks 31YTech. That makes sense I will get rid of that fuse. I was also thinking of adding another relay after the key switch before the accessories. All the accessories will be going through a fuse block. I will be adding 30 amp main fuse before the block.
 
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Old 08-20-13, 04:25 AM
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Hello skyeshoppe,


It's not a bad idea running another relay for accessories, That would reduce the voltage pull through the switch.

Having a second look at your diagram I see something else, The alternator feed wire in most cases is not ran through any type switch (voltage drop).... They hook straight to the battery with a 30amp fuse, You could tie into the start relay feed without issue;





Good Luck
 
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Old 08-20-13, 02:54 PM
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Thanks again 31YTech your help has been invaluable to newbie to engine wiring.

The wire from the alternator is not the main feed but rather to illuminate a light in the switch when the engine is on. I am not sure if this is the proper way to do this. I based the wiring of these switches on http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTQ0WDEyOD...O-Q~~60_12.JPG. This was the only way I figured it could be done because if it was hooked directly to the battery the light would turn on when the key switch is activated. If this is how it is supposed to work I guess it should be fused to 3 amps or less. I'm not sure if there is another way to accomplish what I am looking for because it is a momentary switch. The instructions were just not clear to me.

So there should also be a fuse from the alternator to the battery?

Also do you have any recommendations for wire sizes. The accessories I am running are 3 led navigation lights with less than 1 amp draw fused at 3 amps. A led headlight with 1.7 amp draw fused at 3 amps. A ipod dock with 4 amp draw fused at 15 amps. A horn with 1 amp draw fused at 3 amps. Maximum runs of wire are about 5-7 feet. I am planning on using 16 awg for these and 10 awg from the battery to fuse block and the positive wire to the relay outputs and inputs. I suppose negative should be 10 awg as well?

I have drawn up another diagram with the relay to the fuse block.

Does it matter if the relay is fused in the output or input could I fuse the relay to the starter solenoid in the fuse block like below. Name:  ignition wiring push button 3.jpg
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Or should I just use inline fuses like in the previous diagrams and the diagram below.
 
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Last edited by skyeshoppe; 08-20-13 at 05:15 PM.
  #6  
Old 08-21-13, 05:56 PM
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OK skyeshoppe,

You had me a little confused with the "Alternator" light deal......

To answer your questions about the switch light, Hook the light to the power supply wire going into the push button switch, There's no need for a fuse in the light wire. This way the light illuminates only when the key switch is turned on, Wiring to the "alternator" (voltage regulator) will cause the light to illuminate 24/7 due to the regulator being supplied continuous power through a required 30 amp fuse.

The main battery positive and negative and starter cables should be no smaller than 6 GA in size, Using 10 GA for the main harness is over kill for this application. I would suggest 14 GA which is plenty large enough for everything and for powering the fuse panel and even the fuse panel ground back to the battery.Then coming out of the fuse panel you can drop down to 16 GA since everything is lower amp from there.

For some reason you want to put fuses after the relays (output wire), A fuse after the relay doesn't give any protection should a relay short out so they should be fused on the power feed/input wire.

If you brought this hovercraft to me and asked me to wire it up, This is the way I'd do it although I didn't change the switch light wire as I mentioned above..... I added both 3 post and 4 post solenoids not knowing which you will be using, The 4 post solenoid ground wire would be 14 GA as well not 6 GA.

Don't forget to coat all wire connections with THIS as you go......






Good Luck
 
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Old 08-22-13, 11:14 AM
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Thanks again 31YTech.

I was trying to wire the push button so that the light only illuminates when the engine is on but if there is no good way of getting the negative power only when the engine is on I can wire it to the key switch.

This diagram is super helpful. I will wire like you have shown. Sorry if I seem a little slow to understand but my understanding is the 6 gauge is only used in three places you have indicated (1) battery to engine ground (2) battery to solenoid (3) solenoid to starter. The other wire to the voltage regulator can be 14 awg? If using a 3 post will ground also be 14 from the solenoid or will it be 6 awg?

Do you have a spot you recomend for engine ground? Will dielectric grease be necessary if I am planning on using these and these
 
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Old 08-22-13, 03:17 PM
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Hello skyeshoppe,


Yes..... The three places you listed is all that needs 6 GA cables, Yes again on 14 GA wire from battery positive or solenoid to voltage regulator with 30 amp fuse holder.

The ground for the 3 post solenoid can be 14 GA, Run it either to the battery negative or to a engine mounting bolt..... The battery negative 6 GA wire should be ran to a engine mount bolt as well, This will ensure a good battery/engine ground for the electrical system.....

On the dielectric grease, It would be cheap insurance if a little was wiped on the stripped wires with your finger before sliding into the connector. I'd also use it on the ring terminals before screwing to the fuse block and all other threaded wire connection points along with the relay spades.....


Good Luck
 
  #9  
Old 08-23-13, 12:33 AM
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Thanks I am still awaiting the engine but I think I am ready to wire it.

I will definitely use the dielectric grease where you recommend. I was concerned about it because these waterproof shrink tubes have an adhesive in it.
 
  #10  
Old 08-23-13, 04:00 AM
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I was concerned about it because these waterproof shrink tubes have an adhesive in it.

Your putting the grease on the wire strands not on the plastic wire casing, Therefore the adhesive should work just fine. There's too many variances in heat applied and shrinkage which can leave a small air pocked around the wire strands, This pocket can attract moisture inside causing corrosion......


Good Luck
 
  #11  
Old 08-23-13, 10:18 AM
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This pocket can attract moisture inside causing corrosion......
I am using tinned copper wires and connectors to prevent corrosion. But I will add the grease anyway. Like I was saying I was just concerned about the adhesive sticking but if it will work why not?

Thanks again 31YTech your help has been invaluable.
 
  #12  
Old 08-23-13, 03:20 PM
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Anytime skyeshoppe.....

BTW...... I wouldn't mind seeing a couple pics of this thing once you get it up and run'n !


Good Luck
 
  #13  
Old 08-24-13, 03:54 AM
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I am still a few weeks from completing it. When its done I will make sure I post some pics and let you know. If your curious it's based off Universal Hovercrafts plan for the UH-14P Super Sportsman it can be seen here.
 
  #14  
Old 08-24-13, 09:56 AM
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WOW !

That's nothing like what I had pictured in my mind..... And will do 50+ mph huh.....

Sweet, Post those pics up when you can !
 
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Old 08-24-13, 01:53 PM
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And will do 50+ mph huh.....
That's what they say. It all depends on weight, wind and where you use it (I believe it's faster on land especially on snow or ice). People I've talked to online say it's top speed is realistically closer to 35 to 45 mph on the water again based on weight. Which is plenty fast for me.

I will make sure I post pics.
 
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