Puzzling Poulan 300 EX transmission????

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  #1  
Old 09-28-13, 02:14 PM
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Puzzling Poulan 300 EX transmission????

Have a Poulan Pro 300 EX lawn tractor (Husqvarna) PB 195 H was running fine and wouldnt reverse then forward. No funny sounds no grinding. Figured time for a new belt. Replaced belt doesnt go. Checked brake linkage. Moves. Free wheel option works.
Trmn is sealed unit. Raised rear wheels put in gear wheels turn forward and reverse but didnt turn when sitting on unit. Am happy trmn apparently works but have no clue elsewise. Please save me at your convenience. Many thanks.
 
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Old 09-28-13, 02:44 PM
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You need to find what transaxle it has, if it is a peerless it may be the nuetral lockout sleeve. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 09-28-13, 03:41 PM
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Thanks Geo but I think its a Tecumseh. Im certainly not sure but I think I have a bad electronic somewhere because the kill switch off the ignition doesnt work completely correct. Ill have to verify what the transaxle is. Would sure like the problem to be external to the transaxle. If I strike out here will check with the manufacturer. Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-28-13, 04:54 PM
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Trmn is Hydro Gear transmission T2 AAA BC etc. If I dont have any success here will contact them and post the solution Monday.
 
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Old 09-28-13, 10:49 PM
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Have you had a rear wheel off lately? If so, the axle key may have fallen out.
 
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Old 09-29-13, 06:42 AM
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Aha got you lol. I wish I had but alas no. The only incidental symptom is the reverse mowing feature on the ignition that doesnt shut off automatically. Engine runs strong and transaxle runs when the rear is elevated. Thanks Cheese.
 
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Old 09-29-13, 08:57 PM
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Another possibility other than internal problems is that maybe the pulley splines stripped out and the pulley is slipping on the input shaft.
 
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Old 09-29-13, 09:36 PM
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Seemed tight when turned by hand. Belt new. Will call manufacturer tomorrow and see what they say. Runs quiet when elevated. Hard to believe it runs fine when elevated and there is a pulley problem but dont know. Wasnt any slippages or hesitation prior. Would like to think its electronics. Thank you for your help will post their answer tomorrow. Someone else here offered assistance but hasnt replied yet to me posting the model. Well it runs so its essentially serviceable and if you havent priced a replacement theyre between 6-700.00 so am breathing easier its moving when elevated. Someone said new fluids (sealed unit) may be water based and cook out.
 
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Old 09-30-13, 05:36 PM
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No, it's not water based fluid in it. If it were stripped splines, the pulley could turn the shaft under no load (wheels off the ground), but not under a load. Same with a loose belt.
 
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Old 09-30-13, 06:39 PM
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Youre correct. Am trying to post what Ive been told so if others read it theyll know. For the record the price of a new transaxle is between 6 - $ 700.00 so a little research may save $$$. Those of us who dont know sure appreciate your input. Factory says not symptomatic of a bad unit. Two shops I talked to said it doesnt sound bad but that doesnt mean the problem isnt internal. Someone said if they are used sideways the clutches can burn up due to the fluid shifting. Briggs says the same about oil. Belt is new and correct. Heres a tip. If one of those pulleys we all think is a dummy freezes up it will keep the belt from spinning hence no movement. The pulleys are all plastic. Where I am its not a trip to the corner its miles and miles to a shop and a long delay repairing most likely. Big concerns for those diagnosing were the free wheel option connected from the rear to the top of the transaxle by a push in pull out wire and the brake. Both work. Will spray them tomorrow and see if anything loosens up. Both could be the problem or it could be internal. Factory says there are no electronics involved ie bad kill switch
 
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Old 09-30-13, 07:01 PM
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The freewheel sleeve was the cause of your type problem on some Tecumseh Peerless transaxles, if the sleeve did not engage totally the splined shaft would grind a little of the sleeve splines away until it would eventually fail, refer to the pics below. Have a good one. Geo

Here It looks good.


However the other side is gone.
 
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Old 09-30-13, 07:25 PM
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Thanks Geo. Please tell us where that is it looks like the gear at the brake outside the lower exterior transaxle. I believe youre talking INSIDE the transaxle. Have an estimate what that repair mighty run compared to a new unit?
 
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Old 09-30-13, 08:10 PM
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It is inside the trans, on your unit I don't know where it is you would need to trace the activity of the freewheel linkage to see where it goes, it has to be between what delivers the power and what turns the rear wheels. In my case I did it for about $15. The fix had been quoted to the previous owner for $900, I bought it for $100, it had 62hrs on it. Good luck. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 10-01-13, 06:50 PM
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Geo I hope everyone who reads this appreciates what you said regarding $$$$$ and that there may be a cheaper solution than replacing the unit at a cost of 6- 700 or more.

Took it to the shop today where weve been hashing out the symptoms. Belted properly, Two belt pulleys were diagnosed as failing. Failed pulleys (all have bearings ) can restrict the movement of the belt and thus the belted transaxle.

Was not completely in neutral clicking. Because of the belt? Well see. Pulleys turned but stiff.
Not completely in neutral because of a linkage problem or what you described? The free wheel linkage is at the top of the transaxle in front of the pulley. Manually it was movable.
 
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Old 10-04-13, 03:59 PM
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Geo you has me scared most of the afternoon.

SYMPTOMS: Transaxle not working. Checked around for solution.
PROPOSED SOLUTIONS: Replace. Cost $ 700.00
This forum teaches the uninformed to think.
DIAGNOSED: Replaced the drive belt checked setup. All good
Examination of three pulleys showed two failing.
Replaced. Runs.
BUT: Pops out of gear when going from F to R hydrostatic.
Jiggling makes it work into gear.
TECHNICAL: Hydro Gear rep says linkage needs adjusting between handle and transaxle
Shops say linkage in free wheeling (neutral) option needs adjusted.

HELP: Geo do you or does anyone else care to advise the correct way?

MANY THANKS
 
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Old 10-04-13, 04:16 PM
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I have no idea, my normal solution to anything "google it". Have a good one. Geo
 
  #17  
Old 10-04-13, 07:13 PM
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You say it pops out of gear when going from F to R. What does that mean? On a hyrdo, there is nor "gear" for it to pop out of. When you go from F to R, it quits moving? The belt pops off? Have you cleaned the shifter area on the transmission to get the grass and dirt out of it?
 
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Old 10-04-13, 09:19 PM
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Thanks for your input
When going from F to R there is a noticeable bump and pause.
Stopping and jiggling and a push/bump on the rear "seats it" again.
Belt is fine/new. Axle clean as a whistle.
 
  #19  
Old 10-04-13, 10:55 PM
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Doesn't sound like a linkage problem to me. Look at it and see... is it traveling the full length of travel at the tranny? I think you have internal issues. Nothing major, but something like a missing snap ring or stripped spot that allows intermittent engagement.
 
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