How do I change safety switch on Craftsman tractor
#1
10-29-13, 01:44 PM
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Rochester
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How do I change safety switch on Craftsman tractor
I have a Craftsman lawn tractor. Model # 917.273811. I am having a problem changing the safety switch for the brake/clutch pedal. I pried the old one out but I can't get the new one in. The bar that makes the switch work is right in the way and I don't see any way to move the bar out of the way. There is a bar connected to it but they put the cotter pin in so the top of the pin hits the round bar that runs to the pedal. In fact all of the cotter pins are put in so you can get at them..
Does anybody know how to do this???
Does anybody know how to do this???
#2
10-29-13, 07:40 PM
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I just went out and looked at one like that. Take the transmission belt off of the idler pulleys shown in the second pic above. This will allow the pedal to travel back a bit more and get the switch actuator out of the way enough to pop the new switch right back in place.
#3
10-30-13, 01:47 PM
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Hey Cheese
I can't thank you enough. Once I did that it went right in. I never thought of the belt!
I've changed the seat switch, and the clutch switch with new ones. I tried to start it and it still won't start, so I took the switch I took out of the clutch and put it in place of the switch under the blade lever. Still nothing.
The battery is up full charge, I checked it on the charger. I even put dielectric grease on the switch and fuse connections. I don't know where to look next. Any suggestions???
Is it possible that new selonoid isn't any good?
I can't thank you enough. Once I did that it went right in. I never thought of the belt!
I've changed the seat switch, and the clutch switch with new ones. I tried to start it and it still won't start, so I took the switch I took out of the clutch and put it in place of the switch under the blade lever. Still nothing.
The battery is up full charge, I checked it on the charger. I even put dielectric grease on the switch and fuse connections. I don't know where to look next. Any suggestions???Is it possible that new selonoid isn't any good?
#4
10-30-13, 06:54 PM
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It's possible, but you really should be checking voltages with a test light or meter to find out where the problem is. Is the solenoid getting power to the white wire when you turn the key to start?
#5
10-31-13, 01:54 PM
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I think the clutch switch was the original problem. I went up town and bought a multi meter. The switch had inconsistent continuity. If I wiggled the plunger on the switch I had continuity. If I pushed it straight down nothing.
Then being the brain that I am; While I'm putting in all of these new switches, I decided to throw a new solenoid on it. The stupid solenoid tested as bad. Sears will be getting that sucker back. Had I left the old solenoid alone my problem would have been over days ago. Goes to show you, you can't always trust new parts to actually work. Especially ones made on the other side of the pond, cheap junk!!!
But thanks ten million for the help on getting that clutch switch out
Then being the brain that I am; While I'm putting in all of these new switches, I decided to throw a new solenoid on it. The stupid solenoid tested as bad. Sears will be getting that sucker back. Had I left the old solenoid alone my problem would have been over days ago. Goes to show you, you can't always trust new parts to actually work. Especially ones made on the other side of the pond, cheap junk!!!
But thanks ten million for the help on getting that clutch switch out
