Stihl leaf blower BG56 wont run

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  #1  
Old 11-16-13, 01:12 PM
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Question Stihl leaf blower BG56 wont run

Hey All,

My leaf blower wont run. Its run with the fuel mix but it just died. I searched around and found threads about pulling the plug, putting some PB break in there and turning it. Did that. Got a new plug too. I pull the plug out, put a small squirt of PB in the hole turn the fins untill they turn free, it will then start for a second, I can do that about 5 times then it will lock up. I did that for a bunch of times. I also changed the fuel. It will now run for about 4 seconds then die, then after a few more pulls lock up. is this salvageable? I bought it in the spring.

Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 11-17-13, 03:59 AM
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1. Check that the cylinder head and carb bolts are tight.
2. Check exhaust port for carbon build up by removing the muffler
3. Check fuel lines for cracks/deterioration
4. Treat fuel with SeaFoam
5. Clean carb/inspect for damaged components
6. Have carb hi/lo mixture screws adjusted
 
  #3  
Old 11-17-13, 04:46 AM
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Thanks !

Ill get right on that list and let you know
 
  #4  
Old 11-17-13, 08:46 AM
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Ok, did all of your list. Everything looks okay. It will start now after about 5 pulls and will run for about 5 seconds then die. It is not locking up though, so good thing? After another 5 pulls it will start, run for a few seconds then die.

Suggetion?

Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 11-17-13, 09:28 AM
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Check the fuel filter in the tank and the fuel line in the tank
 
  #6  
Old 11-17-13, 09:30 AM
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Now its locking up

Ill check the fuel filter

Thanks
 
  #7  
Old 11-17-13, 11:10 AM
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If it's locking up, it's most likely not getting the lubrication it needs. Add more 2 stroke oil to the gas, dribble some in the plug hole and start it again. It is most likely galled inside now from it locking up so many times.
 
  #8  
Old 11-17-13, 02:07 PM
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thanks alot Cheese,

I had put 4 oz of oil per gallon after this started. I did not, however put oil in the plug hole, I will do that.
 
  #9  
Old 11-18-13, 07:38 AM
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What oil and ratio were you initially using?
 
  #10  
Old 11-18-13, 09:12 AM
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Hi Pilot,

I was using 2 oz per gallon.
 
  #11  
Old 11-21-13, 10:49 AM
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Took out the fuel filter. It looks clean.

Then I dribbled some oil in the plug hole. It started right up, ran for a few seconds then died. After another 20 pulls nothing. didnt lock back up but still didnt start. I dribbled a bit more in the hole, almost started, then no start.

I looked in the muffler, it looked ok.
 

Last edited by usernamehere; 11-21-13 at 11:47 AM.
  #12  
Old 11-23-13, 12:04 PM
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Question

Today I tried it again. Pulled a few times, it ran for about 5 seconds, then died. I went to rake for about an hour. Went back to try it again and after a few pulls, it started. It ran for a while, half hour or so. It had plenty of power but it didnt sound like it was running very high, i did play with the High Low skews so that may have been why, n ot sure.

It ran out of gas, I put my new mix in. ONe gallon and 4 oz oil. It took a bit to start, ran a few seconds, then died. I started it again with the throttel on. It started. I blew leaves for about 15 minutes, then it dies. Started.......10 minutes......died. Started........a few minutes...........died. Then I said the Heck with it and put it away.

It also sounded like something is knocking on the fan side?

Thanks
 
  #13  
Old 11-23-13, 01:53 PM
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You were originally running a 64:1 ratio. I run full synthetic at a 50:1 ratio in all my tools for simplicity sake but use a high quality synthetic oil. As has been already mentioned I would run a richer mix (more oil) and/or use a higher quality oil but it does not repair any damage done by previously running with too little oil. An engine can't heal itself.
 
  #14  
Old 11-23-13, 01:59 PM
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I know gas goes bad, what about the oil?

I plan on taking it apart to see if there is anything I can see. What would I look for?
 
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Old 11-23-13, 03:06 PM
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Check the compression, with a compression tester, remover the spark plug and the muffler, shine a light in the plug hole as you slowly turn the engine over, look for gouges, scratches, brown burnt spots on the piston and in the cylinder wall, push a small screwdriver or something against the rings to see it they flex or they might be stuck, let us know what you find. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #16  
Old 11-23-13, 06:13 PM
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Yeah, it sounds like this one's had it. The compression is probably very low, which is why the hard starting or no start without oil in the cylinder. The knock is from the bad bearings on the crankshaft most likely. It didn't have enough oil.
 
  #17  
Old 11-24-13, 04:34 AM
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Crap.. I had a feeling from everything I have been reading. Is there any way to fix it?
 
  #18  
Old 11-24-13, 04:28 PM
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Sure, but I don't know that it will be economically practical. You will probably need a cylinder, piston, rings, and possibly a rod, crankshaft bearings, and maybe a crankshaft. Also related gaskets will be needed. I think I would remove the muffler and shine a light down in the cylinder and look for scratch marks inside and on the piston as you move it. This will give you an idea.
 
  #19  
Old 11-25-13, 06:46 AM
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I took the plug out and looked in the hole, when the piston is down I can see pits in it
 
  #20  
Old 11-25-13, 10:58 PM
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Looking through the exhaust port would tell more about the condition.
 
  #21  
Old 11-26-13, 10:06 AM
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Last week I took off the muffler and looked through and it looked fine.

I ran it yesterday, i put oil in the plug hole, it took a few pulls to start, then ran for a good hour. It didnt sound too good but did a great job blowing leaves. The noise it was making wasnt constant but it did have a pattern, make it for a few seconds, not make it, and so on.
 
  #22  
Old 11-26-13, 02:45 PM
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What were you looking for? Did you look at the cylinder walls? Did you check to see if the ring was stuck?
 
  #23  
Old 11-27-13, 05:07 AM
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One of the posts said to look for scratches? Im not really sure what I was looking for but it looked smooth. Nothing seems stuck now, I can turn the fins and the piston moves up and down ok.
 
  #24  
Old 11-27-13, 11:48 AM
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Blower

Clean the air filter. If in bad shape, replace the air filter.
 
  #25  
Old 11-27-13, 11:50 AM
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thanks Wirepuller, Ive checked that and it looks fine.
 
  #26  
Old 11-27-13, 12:18 PM
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Based on my experience with small engines, I would take it apart and check the piston, walls, rings, rod, etc. It sounds like it has internal damage that cannot be seen. It really does not take that much time to remove the cylinder head, carb assembly, and other units hiding the piston and crankshaft. When I do this I try real hard not to destroy the gaskets so I can reuse them. I hate waiting for replacements, and can't recall having a problem when I reused them. Sometimes I make the gaskets myself out of gasket material I bought at a local car parts store. The last time I tore down a small engine I knew the compression was low (after using compression tester) and after dis-assembly I realized that although the cylinder walls were scuffed some, new rings should fix it. So I ordered rings (maybe it was one ring, I forget), installed, and it has been running okay since. It doesn't have the full compression of a new unit, but it's okay to me. One other thought: I lay disassembled parts on my desk in the order they are removed, secure screws with magnets, small plastic containers, or tape, and mark mating surfaces of parts so I'll know exactly how to reassemble the parts. This is especially important when I order parts and have to wait some time before reassembling. If you do disassemble it you may have more questions that you can ask folks here for help on. In any event, I'll look forward to hearing what you did.
 
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