Craftsman 26" Snow Thrower Mod # 247.88970 Shroud Removal Problems

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  #1  
Old 12-07-13, 12:36 PM
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Craftsman 26" Snow Thrower Mod # 247.88970 Shroud Removal Problems

Seasons Greetings - I'm back once more with people that know more than the MFG Techs. I ran into a problem when trying to gain access to the Carb. Between the Chinese carb, Chinese gas tank and the Federal Gov requireing Ethonal being added to the gas I have to clean out my carb. Rust developed as a result of small particles of metal being left over from manufacture. I am having trouble getting the "choke knob" off of the shaft it is attached to. I have tried thin none bending putty knives between the under side of the knob and prying up without any luck. MTD used to make quality products, but since it decided to become the largest mfg of outdoor equipment putting others brand on "their" cheaper product. I've live chatted with a few of the techs and they tried to help but others left a bit desired. for rusted parts I have found "Croil Penetrating Oil" to work quit well. I have used hypodermic needles to get it down into the tiny spaces. Any help will be greatly appreciated. We are expecting our first snow Monday. Thanks for listening.

Mr.Chesse - If I have violated any rules please advise.
 

Last edited by LJD32013; 12-07-13 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Misspelled word
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Old 12-07-13, 02:10 PM
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Is it not just a lever and not attached to any type of cable?
Parts and Diagrams for MTD 31AM63TF799 (247.889701) (2008)
Why remove it?
Where not there to see it and there's no picture posted.
A picture might help.
 
  #3  
Old 12-07-13, 09:14 PM
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Craftsman 26" Snow Thrower Model247.88970 Shroud Removal Problems

Joecaption1 - Thank you for your response. The Operator's Manual that I was supplied with when the unit was purchased in 2008/2009 listed the unit as model 247.88970.
The part is listed as Choke Knob Ref. Nbr 73 Part # 751-10636. The diagram shows the knob sitting out from ref # 72 which is the Engine shroud part # 751-10634, if youi look closely you can see that part ref # 66 is the choke push rod Part #751-10640. As you can see the push rod is just a bent rod with one end straight to fit into the choke knob. The problem is that this particular manual was revised several times and even the Techs say its a shaft that should release but from hands on experience it does not want to release and allow the knob to be seperated from the push rod. When I talked on the live chadt with one tech I was told that my MTD model was incorrect and it was AS in the serial number but later corrected herself when I pointed it out. You see the only question I have is how do I remove the knob from the shaft without destroying the push rod or the choke knob. To me it should be a simple solution of being able to use brute force to seperate the two but for some reason brute force is not working and I was looking for a simple solution. I've tried prying the know off of the shaft but that failed. I've clamped onto the knob with a pair of vise grips but that hasn't worked either. I know that they don't keep up with all the rewrites of the Shop manuals because they don 't relize that parts ie fuel tank nipple which incorporates the fuel filter that goes inside the tank is made out of nylon and the suggested sealant is 242 Locktite which would destroy the nylon threads over time. Just adding to the other problems Ethanol Fuel causes. I appologize for not supplying a parts diagram but I thought it would be cut and dry just suggestions on how to remove a shaft from a piece of plastic. Any advise you can give me will be greatly appreciated. LJD32013
An after thought I don't want to use a Heat Gun becuase it could and most certainly would damage the plastic knob.
 

Last edited by LJD32013; 12-07-13 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Additional thought.
  #4  
Old 12-08-13, 09:13 AM
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Can you remove the choke rod at the carb and slide the rod out with the knob still attached. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 12-08-13, 01:47 PM
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geogrubb - Thank you for your response. Tried that. The knob must be off the rod in order to slide it back wards away from the knob. I have even tried holding the rod with a pair of needle nose vise grips while trying to pull the knob off with another pair of vise grips. It won't budge. When I try to jiggle the knob on the rod it doesn't even move inside the knob. It's almost as if they heated the shaft and pushed the rod onto the knob after it was ready for assembly, and when assembly was completed the heated plastic cooled down and locked the shaft into place. My other theory is that they put the wrong size hole in the knob and had to fill in the hole with plastic locking the knob onto the shaft. I know I'm stretching it but I am begining to beleive that they (factory workers) rather than have a problem with the oversear at the factory came up with a solution on his own for a part that didn' pass inspection. And in order to make his quota came up with a fix on his own. Could have been an entire run of that paricular part. Unfortunately I can't prove my theories. Just supposition (?). LJD
 
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Old 12-08-13, 02:14 PM
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Mr. Moderator ( Mr Chesse) - Help !!! Any ideas. I'm going mad; it is snowing here and it is about 7 inches and mounting. I need my snow thrower to clear my path tomorrow morning. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

LJD32013
 
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Old 12-08-13, 04:08 PM
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I noticed on the parts list that the knob is not returnable, so that would indicate it is probably as you stated the rod is heated and the knob installed. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 12-08-13, 05:44 PM
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geogrubb - The replacement parts are supposed to be seperate but I assume that depends on how the mfg fells that day. In order to install the parts they have to be seperated since the rod would come from the carb side and the knob would br comming from outside the shroud. I have seen so many different breakdowns of the engine and its components that it makes my head spin. Thanks for looking back at the thread. I just hope I get this solved before to long. The snow is getting deeper as I type. I notice you are from Missouri. My wife's mother is from Springfield and that general area. Do the waiters and watresses still toss the rolls in that resturant on the way to Branson. I wish I could remember the name of it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
LJD32013
 
  #9  
Old 12-09-13, 07:27 AM
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The Craftsman

You are probably going to have to break the knob off, and get the rod off, and find or make s new knob and thread the rod and new knob, or just glue the new knob on, or if the rod moves freely enough just use it without a knob.
Sid
 
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Old 12-14-13, 07:48 PM
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sidny and the other members and moderator. If I broke, cut or damaged the shaft I would have been in a worse predicament because I would still be stuck. The MTD techs said it was a "D" shaft and it would pull off with just a slight wiggle motion. Nope, that was wrong. Cutting could have jeperdized the other parts undre and arroudd it. Cutting the knob would have also created problems. Finally I found my needlenose vicegrips and I clamped on the the shaft just past the primer plate. I next took a square jaw visegripe and clamped onto the knob with just enough pressure that would not damage the knob. I didn't want to take a chance with a part tha was not readilly avaible. I pulled on the knob and got a hair or two to allow for a heavey angled putty knive to pry on the knob, with one final pull the knob came off with out damage to it. It turned out the the shaft was not in a "D" shape. But instead the shaft had been flattened for over an a arrow was raised on the one flat side. The arrow was what was holding it on and not allowing it to move. It seems to me that the Techs don't have the upto date materials list of that would assist in getting things accomplished. I'm going to see if they have improved this particular model with a plastic fuel tank and a better inline fuel filter that has more surface to capture the rusty particles from the steel fuel tank. Once again thanks to all who resonded to my thread and please continue supporting this web site. From now on I will use the Tech info as a guide and not as fact. It turns out that they have had various manuals on this unit. Merry Christmas and a Happy and Profitable New Year to all.
LJD32013
 
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