Should I use synthetic in my new generator?

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  #1  
Old 12-31-13, 02:31 PM
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Should I use synthetic in my new generator?

I recently purchased a new 7500 watt Pulsar generator. Owners manual only says to use 10w30 oil. New mention or synthetic. I am told that synthetic is always better than standard oil. Is this true? Should I do my first oil change with synthetic? I have 5w30 Castrol Edge ready to go in.
Also, I found that Pulsar is a new company. Anyone else have one of their generators? Whats your opinion.
I never heard of it before and so I am concerned that I take good care of it.
 
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Old 12-31-13, 03:01 PM
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I would go with only what the MFG. says to use. Also, using synthetic may give them cause void the warranty if you need any repairs.
 
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Old 01-01-14, 07:48 AM
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yn

Wait untill the waranty expires, then use synthetc, it is always better than reg oil. I've been using syn for over 20 yrs in all my cars boats and lawn and garden motors, and my 47 yr old snow blower. It might get some use friday.
Sid
 
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Old 01-02-14, 08:54 AM
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My rule of thumb for small engines: Synthetic for multi-viscosity oil and conv for st weight oil. I run conv SAE 30 oil in my mower, syn 0W-30 in my snow thrower and syn 10W-30 in my pressure washer.

Read in a Craftsman riding mower owner manual that multi-vis conv oil leads to increased oil consumption and to ensure you check and top off the oil more often if you go with that option.

Of course I've verified that all my OPE that require multi-vis oil are approved for synthetic.
 
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Old 01-02-14, 02:37 PM
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I would run the engine on conventional oil for the first 100 hours or so, then switch to synthetic. This allows the internal parts to "break in" or wear together to proper fit before switching.

My opinion on pulsar generators: I don't have experience with that brand, but it is from China, and that tells me all I need to know. Parts and service can be difficult and sometimes impossible to get for these off brands. Sometimes the brand will be everywhere for a couple of years, then it is shut down and the parts, distribution, and service disappears immediately. I recently told a guy his generator was not repairable because it had a bad coil. It wasn't very old, but you can't buy one anymore. If you just want a cheap generator to use when it's not imperative to have a good generator, then go for it, but if you need something to depend on, pass.
 
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Old 01-03-14, 01:12 AM
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The fuel you use in the engine may also be a consideration. One of the largest suppliers of gaseous fuel (propane or natural gas) conversion equipment for portable generators emphatically warn against using synthetic oil in a gaseous fueled generator engine. I don't know what the problems are as the link they provide to the explanation never works.
 
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Old 01-03-14, 06:31 AM
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Unless the manufacture suggest otherwise I would not use it.
Think of it this way. They designed it, wouldn't they know best?
 
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Old 01-03-14, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Norm201

Unless the manufacture suggest otherwise I would not use it.
Think of it this way. They designed it, wouldn't they know best?
Not always. Example the car manufacturers. Many (most?) use water-thin oil to improve their CAFE bottom line. I don't believe 0W20 should be recommended for anything except arctic zone use.
If you use synthetic during the break-in period you will likely never get a proper ring-cylinder seal. These parts need to wear in *under load* during the first few minutes of operation. Synthetic prevents the necessary wear from occurring and the engine will always burn some oil.

OTOH Chinese engines are usually run-tested on the assembly line--using the same oil over and over for the entire day's production (they're immediately drained for shipping). With all the crap caught in THAT oil I'm sure there's PLENTY of wear occurring in the first minute of operation
 
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Old 01-03-14, 11:08 AM
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Not always. Example the car manufacturers. Many (most?) use water-thin oil to improve their CAFE bottom line.
Can you verify that statement? It seems to me that any auto manufacture that does this is just shooting themselves in the foot. CAFE numbers have a lot more to do with controlled drving parameters as opposed to using water-thin oil at production. Makes littler or no sense.

If I have engine failure due to recommended oil as per manufacture that would only cost the manufacturer. Certainly any oil that exceeds manufacturer recommendations if fine but not necessary.

Or lets put this way, suppose you're right and they do use water-thin oil. BUT, do they recommend using the same during consumer use? I think not, because that would not fit the design parameters. Now days its very rare to see an engine fail due to poor lubrication when using manufacture suggested oil.
 
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Old 01-04-14, 01:01 AM
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All good info. people. Thanks.
I put about 30 hours on the generator with 10w30 as per manufacturer recommendation. I will now change the oil and use the same again. I will not put the synthetic in until I get a couple hundred hours on it. Does that sound reasonable?

Another question about this generator. The manual, which sucks, says it has a 3 in 1 digital meter on it which dispalays voltage, frequency and hours. Does anyone know how to use the meter?
It also states, "If using a 12 volt DC tool or equipment, turn the 120 volt AC". I am thinking this is a typo and an unfinished sentence. Makes no sense. There are 2 DC terminals and a DC breaker.















































































































































































































































































































































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