NOMA 827 Auger Brake shoe pad repacement

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  #1  
Old 01-19-14, 05:29 PM
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NOMA 827 Auger Brake shoe pad repacement

Hi folks,

My NOMA 827 keeps going through auger belts (belts also fall off frequently) and I think the reason is that the brake shoe is worn. I removed the cover and noticed that after I disengage the auger, the large pulley keeps going. At this point, the belt, being very loose, eventually gets caught up and is pulled off and/or tangled up. I think I need to replace the auger brake pad which is a fairly cheap part, but I'm not sure how to do it. It looks like there is a pin going through it and a bolt that is attached to the brake arm.

Has anyone ever replaced the brake pad on this machine? If so how do you get the pin out and then re-install the new pad?

Thanks
 
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Old 01-19-14, 06:18 PM
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Brake pad

The brake pad has nothing to do with the belt staying on the pully on these units.. Has someone bent or removed the belt fingers or are they not adjusted?? The fingers should have 1/8" clearance to the belt when engaged. Your manual has the correct procedure. Do NOT ever bend a belt finger/guide to install a belt. Are you using an OEM belt?? The $6 FHP belt won't last.. Use the OEM replacement.... Roger
 
  #3  
Old 01-19-14, 06:38 PM
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ok, thanks Roger for replying. Maybe I have 2 problems then. Should the brake pad stop the large auger pulley rather quickly? When I observe, it is not stopping, or it take a long time to stop and while it is still spinning, the loose belt just comes right off. The belt stays on fine until I release the auger lever. I just assumed the brake pad needs replacement. I guess this problem has nothing to do with the belt falling off.

I put a brand new belt on at the beginning of the season ($16 OEM) and it's lasted 4 storms. Now it is all frayed needs to be replaced again. It will not stay on anymore. Based on what you are saying, it seems I just need to make sure the fingers are adjusted properly.
 
  #4  
Old 01-21-14, 10:43 AM
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As Roger states the break pad has nothing to do with your problem. The brake pad does have a roll pin holding it to the break arm. All you need to do is tap the pin through to remove that pad. Your main problem of the belts falling off can be caused by a few different things. You could have bearing wear which will make the pulley not turn true, thus causing the belts to stretch and fall off fairly quickly. You could also have problems with the tractor part of machine frame. The tractor mounts to the auger housing using 4 bolts, 2 on the top and 2 at the bottom. You should check the 4 holes located in the the tractor frame to make sure the frame is still solid around those holes. If any of the holes are cracked, partially cracked or broken out it would cause the auger assembly to flex and produce the condition your looking at. If the holes are solid in the tractor I would closely at the auger shaft bearing, looking for excessive play in that bearing. Kev.
 
  #5  
Old 01-22-14, 09:35 AM
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Thanks Kev. I understand now and it makes sense that the brake, although now working well, is not the problem.

I did get a new belt and when I was putting it on, I noticed that the belt fingers were loose. When I tried to tighten, I realized that they would not tighten. Pulled off the fingers and saw one bolt was stripped. Pulled off the other finger and noticed the bolt appeared ok but the threads on the engine block were stripped (very bad news). So I got a couple of new bolts and I used the alternative engine block threaded slot and tightened up the fingers after adjusting to 1/8 inch. Works fine now.

HOWEVER, I know that one of the fingers is in the wrong thread on the block and at least one issue with that is that the auger cover won't go back on properly as the finger gets in the way. Are there any other issues about attaching the finger this way that I am not aware of yet?

I suppose the right thing to do would be to re-thread the engine block but I don't know how to do that.
 
  #6  
Old 01-22-14, 01:14 PM
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Run53, that's to bad you ended up with the block stripped. Besides running it with no cover I would be concerned about the attachment of the belt keeper in that manner chewing a belt up, because once the belt gets a little wear it stretches out some and most likely will start hitting the keeper. The keeper not being in the right place or proper angle will end up being hit by the belt, most likely during the auger being disengaged, and the belt will fray. The fraying will heat the keeper, tear the belt and the auger belt will break or pop off the pulley, thus giving you the same condition that brought you hear in the first place. The keeper will bend, from the friction and if done enough times the keeper will break from fatigue from bending back and forth to proper angle. For a time Murray was not or still does not have the L-bracket keepers available for replacement. I'm not sure if their other form of keeper they used on Noma's (round steel type) are available either.

If you know someone who works in a factory, machine shop or garage, they may have access to a tap & die set and maybe they could help you chase the threads and or tap out new ones in your block. Another thing you might want to look into is getting a helicoil kit and inserting the proper size coil into the block thus allowing you to use the correct hole. good luck, Kev.
 
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