Briggs and Stratton won't start
#1
04-23-14, 02:56 PM
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Briggs and Stratton won't start
Purchased used high weed mower last year with a B&S model 196422, type 1162-E1 engine. Used one time last year. It ran rough. This year it will not start. Engine turns over. Good spark at spark plug. Fuel getting to cylinder. Attempted direct feed to cylinder. Still nothing. Found defective shut off switch, worked intermittently. Replaced it. There is a single wire from the shut off switch that is not connected to anything. I cannot find where it was disconnected. The other two wire connections appear ok. (I guess that is confirmed because I have spark?) There was no grounding wire on the disconnect switch so I added one to the engine body. The engine does not even fire once when starting rope is pulled. Must have pulled it over 100 times in last couple days. Help!
#2
04-23-14, 07:05 PM
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The kill switch grounds the kill wire from the coil. If it has spark and fuel but won't make a sound, I'd suspect a compression issue.
#3
04-24-14, 09:20 AM
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Checked compression - 60 psi. Where do I go from here? Rings, valves, etc. I dont'know how, but can learn. Any easy fixes?
#5
04-28-14, 03:09 PM
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I have removed the carburator assembly. exhaust and the head. I have opened the access to the valve springs. There is no seperation between the valves and the drive rods at full compression. The valves appear to close, but when tested with air after floating WD40 on top of the valves, air bubbles through the WD40between the valve and valve seat. Can these be adjusted? How? Or better yet, what do I do now?
#6
04-28-14, 03:56 PM
Your situation sounds like one I had last year with a small Tecumseh engine I have on a Chipper, and which has run fine for over 25 years.
I was tinkering with it in 2012 an when I couldn't finish my little project, I put it away for the winter with the Air Filter OFF. The Air Filter was an accordion type paper filament.
In 2013, putting it back together, I couldn't get it to start. Went through all of the tests that you did . . . . even replaced the points (yes it's that old).
Turned out that I had damaged my compression by leaving that Filter OFF. The humidity had gotten into the intake passages, and I had pitted the steel valve surface with new rust over the winter, as it must have been left in an open condition and couldn't seal. We had to grind the Intake Valve down and re-seat valve onto the crankcase seat (bronze?), and trim a corresponding amount of material off the valve stem.
Put it back together and checked for compression, which was now up about 50 lbs from where it had been . . . . and it started right up.
I may not finish every project I start in the future; but I will prevent moisture laden air from getting into engines like this over the winter. The dinky little paper Air Filter could have prevented that moisture from getting in there and condensing on the cold metal.
I was tinkering with it in 2012 an when I couldn't finish my little project, I put it away for the winter with the Air Filter OFF. The Air Filter was an accordion type paper filament.
In 2013, putting it back together, I couldn't get it to start. Went through all of the tests that you did . . . . even replaced the points (yes it's that old).
Turned out that I had damaged my compression by leaving that Filter OFF. The humidity had gotten into the intake passages, and I had pitted the steel valve surface with new rust over the winter, as it must have been left in an open condition and couldn't seal. We had to grind the Intake Valve down and re-seat valve onto the crankcase seat (bronze?), and trim a corresponding amount of material off the valve stem.
Put it back together and checked for compression, which was now up about 50 lbs from where it had been . . . . and it started right up.
I may not finish every project I start in the future; but I will prevent moisture laden air from getting into engines like this over the winter. The dinky little paper Air Filter could have prevented that moisture from getting in there and condensing on the cold metal.
#7
04-28-14, 04:01 PM
Any adjustment hardware would be obvious on the rocker arms or center fixing bolt of the rocker. If nothing there you may have hydraulic lifters. If you have a solid lifter you should have a gap at the stem/rocker at about 1/4 inch past TDC. The 1/4 inch past has to do with a compression release, but it'll generally work for most.
#8
04-28-14, 05:42 PM
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Thanks for your input. I have not taken the crank case apart and have therefore not accessed the rocker arms, if it has them. Should I completely dissasemble the engine and drive train to access the cam and rocker arms. I was hoping for an easier fix. At this point is it reasonable to consider a new engine?
#9
04-28-14, 06:20 PM
Member
Please pay attention. This engine being discussed is a flathead engine with valves in block, therefore NO rocker arms.
It has tappets and the adjustment for them is to grind material off valve stem.
Illustrated Parts List
See engine illustration.
It has tappets and the adjustment for them is to grind material off valve stem.
Illustrated Parts List
See engine illustration.
#10
04-28-14, 06:30 PM
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How much compression do you get when rotating the engine backwards? It does sound like it may need the valves ground to obtain proper clearance at the least if there is 0 clearance.
#11
04-28-14, 07:44 PM
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#13
04-30-14, 09:22 AM
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Valve stems shortened, .005 and .010. Engine started, ran short time. Died when opening choke. Appears to have a fuel flow problem. Compression only 90 psi.
#14
04-30-14, 05:20 PM
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Cleaned Carburator; Equipment operates satisfactorily; thanks to everyone for their help. I would close this thread, but I don't know how.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#15
04-30-14, 08:30 PM
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90 psi on that type of engine is acceptable (psi readings are lower than what you normally look for on these engines due to the sort of compression release effect of the cam). Your valve job boosted compression enough to run and the carb work topped it off. Glad you got it, and thanks for the update.
