Briggs and Stratton Engine 10417-0146-E1
Here are some Manuals Results

I was trying to clean up the carburetor and some of the gunky parts on this Troy Bilt Tiller and I don't know if I messed up a linkage somewhere but the throttle doesn't spring back. I haven't even tried to reassemble and try it because I feel the links between the choke throttle and governor aren't operating properly.

Here are some photos and a video I uploaded. Can anyone offer me some advice?

Photos and video are what are underneath the gas tank once removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrPGVz5hnvw
Album with pictures: imgur: the simple image sharer

 

I found this video on what appears to be a properly functioning linkage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubSS6P3CQOs

I was able to bend the Governor linkage Robot Check
and it springs back better now, did I possibly stretch and screw up the springs, or is this a different issue entirely?

 

The throttle linkage with the spring over it, it is bent in your pics. Straighten it and it should work.

 

when the linkage spring is longer it provides a lot of slack, is that normal?

 

Slack where?
________________

 

when the linkage spring distance is shorter (bent) I get a spring action when I moved the throttle with my hand. I pull the throttle to the left, and it springs back. When the linkage is long (straight, non-bent) the throttle moves freely and none of the controls seem to do anything. Does the spring around the metal link actually serve a purpose? Some of that fine spring material surrounding the link got unraveled and loose, so I cut a little bit and threaded it again.

 

Your best bet it probably going to be to just buy a new linkage because you may never get this one right again. Either that or straighten it and if it doesn't run right, re-set the governor. The little spring is fine like you fixed it. The "slack" you're talking about is irrelevant. The governor and spring control that part of operation.

 

I went with your advice Cheese and just bought a new linkage. It actually comes bent along the length in 2 areas, but I would have never figured out the "correct" bend without just getting a new one, so thank you!

I have a new issue, I sandpapered the rust off my magneto to fix my lack of spark on my spark plug. On my engine model there is one wire that runs from the back of the magneto all the way to the ignition key area (which I haven't even TRIED to fix the battery/electric starter-for now I'm content with the pull start). I assume this is a ground wire. The problem is that the engine will ONLY start if this wire is disconnected. When the wire is connected, no spark-no start. What do I need to do to fix this issue? (btw I did the whole magneto distance calculation with a business card to get the gap at the right distance)

 

Something is grounding that wire. Either a safety switch or ignition switch.

 

Ignition key was in off position when it should have been in run position. Dur. In my defense, in my mind the electric starter was something I wasn't even looking at, Iwas only using the ppull start! He he. Thanks again! Runs like a dream after replacing stale fuel with new ( what a difference!)